Foxbody-SN95 brake conversation issue

[Jnoles405*]

I took the rear end out of a 95 GT donor car and converted my foxbody to 5 lug and all disk brakes. Rear end is completely rebuilt with Sn95 ( fox length) moser axels. I cut and switched the caliper brackets like other forums recommended. Everything went back together great except the new rear brake calipers. The calipers seem to be pulling the back of the rotors inward causing the fronts to push out and coming off the flange. This is causing it to bind and not roll easily after the wheels are torqued down.

Did anyone shim the caliper brackets out with a washer to get the alignment that’s needed?

 

[90sickfox]

I have heard of people using washers to space the calipers out for rotor clearance. Your install looks correct from what I can see. I'm sure you got the fox length axles with the sn95 center bore. If you didn't you'll need to clearance the rotor to fit over the axle center flange. ( hard to see from the pic but looks correct ). Looks like you know your way around these cars. Washers can be used to push the caliper out for clearance. If its 1/4 inch or more I'd recommend making a thick spacer.

Good looking project.

 

[Jnoles405*]

I have heard of people using washers to space the calipers out for rotor clearance. Your install looks correct from what I can see. I'm sure you got the fox length axles with the sn95 center bore. If you didn't you'll need to clearance the rotor to fit over the axle center flange. ( hard to see from the pic but looks correct ). Looks like you know your way around these cars. Washers can be used to push the caliper out for clearance. If its 1/4 inch or more I'd recommend making a thick spacer.

Good looking project.

Kinda what I was thinking. I’m going to use washers to mock up the correct thickness and I’ll make a solid spacer with longer caliper bracket bolts.

 

[KRUISR]

I would hold the rotor flat against the axle face with a couple lug nuts. Then slide the caliper (with pads) onto the rotor and see what gap you get.

 

[Rdub6]

I used the North Race Car brackets, and I still had to shim with washers to get even clearance on both sides of the rotor to the pads.
I don’t think the tolerances on the axle housings were too tight…. And each housing could need a different touch to get it correct.

 

[KRUISR]

I completely agree. Differences in axle length/tolerances, bracket tolerances, caliper tolerances will all effect how much if any shim is needed.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I believe they supply a few washers to use as shims with the caliper bracket kit. I did not need any with mine, but not uncommon to hear of shims being needed

What you should do is use two lug nuts and a washer to clamp the rotor to the axle snugly. Disassemble the caliper to the point you only have the pad retention bracket, and no pads. With just he bracket, slip it over the rotor and bolt it down. The rotor should spin freely in the channel without contacting either side of the channel for the bracket. Depending on how worn your limited slip is, there might be some in and out axle play. Grab the rotor and pull outwards, and recheck clearance. Push the rotor inward and recheck. If there is no contact, you are good to go. If there is, use a washer to space the bracket out slightly and recheck everything.

You might have to go to good hardware store or somewhere like Mcmaster-carr to order washers of varying thicknesses to use as a spacer. Home depo tends to not have as good of a variety.

One of my gripes about the NRC kit is that there were no install instructions with the kit. Granted, i did not need them, but there could be some setup tips, like the above, included somewhere.