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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

FR500 Steering wheel Install

  • Thread starter Thread starter lxsteed
  • Start date Start date Mar 20, 2004

lxsteed

Founding Member
Aug 12, 2002
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Melbourne
Mar 20, 2004
#1
  • Mar 20, 2004
  • #1
Ok, I'm in the middle of doing this. I've got everything out except the old wheel. The steering wheel puller didn't work, and now I'm trying to get a 2 jaw puller to work, but am very concerned about messing up the threads for the center screw. Has anyone had this problem? The factory wheel just does not want to budge no matter how much penitrating lube I put on it.
 

lxsteed

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Aug 12, 2002
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Melbourne
Mar 20, 2004
#2
  • Mar 20, 2004
  • #2
No one's ran into this with their car?
 

PG98GT

Founding Member
Apr 5, 2001
687
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0
Mt. Carmel, TN
Mar 20, 2004
#3
  • Mar 20, 2004
  • #3
I used a conventional puller to pull mine. There are indentations on the stock wheel allowed me to thread the three bolts in to hold the puller to the steering wheel. I put a washer over the end so the puller was shoving down on that and not the threaded hole.
 

lxsteed

Founding Member
Aug 12, 2002
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Melbourne
Mar 21, 2004
#4
  • Mar 21, 2004
  • #4
Yea, I tried that, but being that the wheel is aluminum, one of the screws pulled right out of the wheel. 2 Jaw puller hasn't been working yet either.
 

Str8Pimp'n

Founding Member
Apr 7, 2002
492
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Str8 outta Compton...
Mar 21, 2004
#5
  • Mar 21, 2004
  • #5
I had this problem on my car, I finally resorted to getting a hammer and hitting it from the backside. Spray a little WD-40 on the shaft. Some people say to just grab the wheel @ the 9 and 3 o'clock and 11-5 o'clock positions and yank on it but that did not work for me. When I used a hammer ( maybe try a mallet first) just be patient, it will eventually work loose.
 

PG98GT

Founding Member
Apr 5, 2001
687
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0
Mt. Carmel, TN
Mar 21, 2004
#6
  • Mar 21, 2004
  • #6
Well, one of the bolts pulled out on me too, but one slightly larger didn't. Have patience young jedi, it will work, that's the way the Ford mechanice told me they pull them off. Of course you could use the mallet method too. The shaft isn't threaded on the outside so you don't have to worry about messing up those threads. Good luck
 

lxsteed

Founding Member
Aug 12, 2002
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Melbourne
Mar 21, 2004
#7
  • Mar 21, 2004
  • #7
Yep, I've been working the patience. I'm determined!
 
S

Solid Snake

Banned
Nov 26, 2002
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GA
Mar 21, 2004
#8
  • Mar 21, 2004
  • #8
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/fr500wheel.htm

 

Red Dragon

New Member
Jan 23, 2003
310
0
0
Mar 21, 2004
#9
  • Mar 21, 2004
  • #9
With the puller tool turned down to give pull on the steering wheel, have somebody pull on the steering wheel while you hit the center of the puller tool (end of threaded bolt of the puller). This will jerk the wheel enough to snap it loose.
 

lxsteed

Founding Member
Aug 12, 2002
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Melbourne
Mar 21, 2004
#10
  • Mar 21, 2004
  • #10
Str8Pimp'n said:
I had this problem on my car, I finally resorted to getting a hammer and hitting it from the backside. Spray a little WD-40 on the shaft. Some people say to just grab the wheel @ the 9 and 3 o'clock and 11-5 o'clock positions and yank on it but that did not work for me. When I used a hammer ( maybe try a mallet first) just be patient, it will eventually work loose.
Click to expand...


How did you hit it with a hammer from the back side if the wheel is still on the car?
 

lxsteed

Founding Member
Aug 12, 2002
1,009
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36
Melbourne
Mar 21, 2004
#11
  • Mar 21, 2004
  • #11
Ok, I'm open for any more ideas. The two jaw puller is cracking the wheel and I'm afraid it'll come completely though



The wheel itself is aluminum, but I think its a steel insert that goes onto the shaft. I don't want it to break and then just leave the steel insert there.
 

lxsteed

Founding Member
Aug 12, 2002
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Melbourne
Mar 22, 2004
#12
  • Mar 22, 2004
  • #12
bump
 

neoclasiccl

Founding Member
Jun 1, 2002
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57
Help I can't see !!!!!!
Mar 22, 2004
#13
  • Mar 22, 2004
  • #13
lxsteed said:
bump
Click to expand...


Try to see the back of the steel insert. Cause if you have a good edge on the back then the Jaw puller (after the aluminum part breaks off) should be able to get a grip on the steel insert after the wheel comes off it (from the way the photo looks)
 

lxsteed

Founding Member
Aug 12, 2002
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36
Melbourne
Mar 22, 2004
#14
  • Mar 22, 2004
  • #14
That was my thought as well, but I really can't tell if I'll be able to get behind it or not. Judging by the one on the FR500 wheel, its a good 2" long.
 

Str8Pimp'n

Founding Member
Apr 7, 2002
492
0
16
Str8 outta Compton...
Mar 22, 2004
#15
  • Mar 22, 2004
  • #15
lxsteed said:
How did you hit it with a hammer from the back side if the wheel is still on the car?
Click to expand...

You can do it. I also grabbed the wheel and yanked on it as well, the combination of the two worked. I did not use a big hammer.
 

lxsteed

Founding Member
Aug 12, 2002
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36
Melbourne
Mar 22, 2004
#16
  • Mar 22, 2004
  • #16
Did you just hit the back of the wheel with the hammer, or did you hit it down closer to the shaft?
 
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