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Frame And Strut Tower Repair

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sulli88GT
  • Start date Start date Jan 4, 2018
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Sulli88GT

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Jan 4, 2018
#1
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #1
88 gt very. I'm getting ready to cut and fix. I have 14 and 16 gauge steel at my work and I can get 12 gauge, I see LMR uses 12 gauge for the frame rails. Should I order some 12 for frame and use 14 or 16 gauge on strut towers. I'm doing both sides, it's bad.
 

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Sulli88GT

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Apr 3, 2017
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Jan 4, 2018
#2
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #2
I pulled heads off and found head gasket Ford/Felpro part number E6ZE-6051-A5A. I looked for this number and get no cross reference. What head gasket is a replacement for that number? It has a steel ring and orange seal around ports etc. Sorry don't have pics of it. Motor is all stock.
 

95BlueStallion

My assy trans to myself
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#3
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #3
I use Felpro 9333-pt-1 and have never had a problem. Even guys running boost have stated they hold up.

As far as the strut tower rust, I would buy the kit from LMR honestly. I bet the k member mounts are also shot, and their kit includes all that.
 

Sulli88GT

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#4
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #4
Yup driver side total gone, one bolt was ate in half, and the other was almost there.
 

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Sulli88GT

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#5
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #5
Driver side
 

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Sulli88GT

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#6
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #6
Sulli88GT said:
Driver side
Click to expand...
 

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95BlueStallion

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#7
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #7
Dang man, yours makes mine feel like it was a cake walk. I am trying to remember who's thread replaced all that using their own K member bolt spacers. @Noobz347 , was it Scott's how to blow $50k thread? I cant remember for sure, but know someone did a similar extensive job and showed all the parts they rounded up for it.
 

HotFox

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#8
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #8
Honestly if the rails look like that I cant see how the rest of the car is worth saving. There is a cowl thread around here that is pretty scary, look around the door area, cowl and rear rails. I would do more digging around on the car and if other areas are found to be cancerous, find a donor and swap everything. I live in Michigan know all about cars like that. Bought my car from down south, cleaner then anything around here.
 
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Sulli88GT

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Jan 4, 2018
#9
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #9
I bought car knowing the issue. I had been looking for about 2 years for a convertible, I sold my bike and wanted something the kids and I could ride together. I found 3, I got this car because the others were more money and stock everything, this car had the wing and different wheels and a new paint job. But the frame and strut towers, it's a tough job but I'm up for it. It's getting hard to find a convertible. This car was totaled three months after original owner bought it then sit in PA, fix but not right. Well long story short she will get fix up, car has been gutted I guess it's a unibody resto
 
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Sulli88GT

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#10
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #10
Rest of car is good, maybe a spot here and there will get address. All it's costing me is my time. I don't like to say can't but if that happens then I'll face it then lol
 

Davedacarpainter

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#11
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #11
Do you have a metal brake to bend the shapes you will need?

Don’t skimp on the frame rails. Study this a bit. You’ll want to find some solid steel tubing for the crush tubes that go inside the frame rails where the k-member bolts to. 12 gauge though for the frame rails.

Like the guys mentioned, look at the frame rail kit offered by LMR. I could make my own, but I’ll get that kit for my car.

The shock towers will still require some creativity on your part.

Unless you can find a salvage fox front end for donor parts.

It’s definitely doable, just be ready to do it correctly. Measure a couple times for solid reference points before cutting. Then don’t move the car one bit until you have the replacement parts welded back in to the original measurements.

If you need any advice, holler at me, I’ll help you out.

Like the other guys mentioned, look at the cowel area underneath you fenders. @mikestang63 ? You want to show him why?
 
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mikestang63

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#12
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #12
Be happy to share some lovely carnage pics of my pristine 2 owner 48k original mile southern show car
By the way, still waiting on the Jack Daniels go fund me page to get some donations...


Davedacarpainter said:
Do you have a metal brake to bend the shapes you will need?

Don’t skimp on the frame rails. Study this a bit. You’ll want to find some solid steel tubing for the crush tubes that go inside the frame rails where the k-member bolts to. 12 gauge though for the frame rails.

Like the guys mentioned, look at the frame rail kit offered by LMR. I could make my own, but I’ll get that kit for my car.

The shock towers will still require some creativity on your part.

Unless you can find a salvage fox front end for donor parts.

It’s definitely doable, just be ready to do it correctly. Measure a couple times for solid reference points before cutting. Then don’t move the car one bit until you have the replacement parts welded back in to the original measurements.

If you need any advice, holler at me, I’ll help you out.

Like the other guys mentioned, look at the cowel area underneath you fenders. @mikestang63 ? You want to show him why?
Click to expand...
 

Sulli88GT

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#13
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #13
Mine look good there, I will dig some more. I do HVAC and plumbing, the shop has a bender, cutter, and plasma for the thicker gauge. We don't have 12gauge but I'm sure we can get it. I'm thinking about cutting at the small angle piece that's on main frame rails and running some 12 gauge bent in the U siding it inside of the main then another alittle bigger around that to match up. And small holes here and there on bottom to spot weld together. This is the only part I worry about. The start point and clean one at that hopefully I don't have to dig to much pass that.
Green arrow on pic.
 

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Sulli88GT

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#14
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #14
Thanks also for the help and info. I'll keep posting here and there for some ideas.
And on the steel, it will cost me little to nothing and after work bend and cutt. So it's 12gauge on frame and is it 14 for struts or do it 12 also?
 

Noobz347

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#15
  • Jan 4, 2018
  • #15
95BlueStallion said:
Dang man, yours makes mine feel like it was a cake walk. I am trying to remember who's thread replaced all that using their own K member bolt spacers. @Noobz347 , was it Scott's how to blow $50k thread? I cant remember for sure, but know someone did a similar extensive job and showed all the parts they rounded up for it.
Click to expand...


Yep. I think he cut open the fronts and rears and cut new steel bushings for them all.
 

Davedacarpainter

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#16
  • Jan 5, 2018
  • #16
Noobz347 said:
Yep. I think he cut open the fronts and rears and cut new steel bushings for them all.
Click to expand...
What was Terry’s thread called for his ‘84 t-top? He replaced about everything.
 
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Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
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#17
  • Jan 5, 2018
  • #17
Sulli88GT said:
Thanks also for the help and info. I'll keep posting here and there for some ideas.
And on the steel, it will cost me little to nothing and after work bend and cutt. So it's 12gauge on frame and is it 14 for struts or do it 12 also?
Click to expand...
I think it might even be 16, I would have to get a gauge and measure the thickness again to be sure though.
 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT
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#18
  • Jan 5, 2018
  • #18
Davedacarpainter said:
What was Terry’s thread called for his ‘84 t-top? He replaced about everything.
Click to expand...
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/started-the-84-t-top-coupe.772468/page-5
 
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95BlueStallion

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#19
  • Jan 5, 2018
  • #19
There you go. ^
 

Sulli88GT

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Jan 7, 2018
#20
  • Jan 7, 2018
  • #20
Rails are jacked. Took alot of measurements, center to center, used a tripod laser level, centered from rear to front and car is almost level considering from what I've read they are not perfect anyway.
 

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