free mods and other things..

stang2841 · Dec 21, 2005

well we all know the obvious..

timing
K&N w/ removed silencer..
TPS voltage set a little higher then norm for zippier throttle..

what else is there?

remove MAF screen is something I've always done as well..

is there any possible way I can lower fuel pressure w/o FPR?

I got the car in the shop now been to lazy to deal with it and I'm just thinking of things I can have him do w/o me worrying about it

its still on 19lb injectors..

srothfuss · Dec 21, 2005

Other than advancing the timing, there isn't anything free.

JRICHKER has a few good junkyard improvements. You could probably save a couple dollars by following them.

bill302 · Dec 21, 2005

TPS voltage set a little higher then norm for zippier throttle..
how do you do this?

remove MAF screen is something I've always done as well..
is this safe to do and how much of a difference after removed?

bill302 · Dec 21, 2005

srothfuss said:
Other than advancing the timing, there isn't anything free.

JRICHKER has a few good junkyard improvements. You could probably save a couple dollars by following them.

i'm stock whats the highest safe advance?

gt40_2003wes · Dec 21, 2005

14 degrees advanced is safe.

93tealstang · Dec 21, 2005

TPS voltage set a little higher then norm for zippier throttle..
how do you do this?

remove MAF screen is something I've always done as well..
is this safe to do and how much of a difference after removed?

FYI, both of these yield no gains at all. TPS on any Ford TB cannot be adjusted as it will always zero itself out. Removing the MAF screen is just . That just allows more dirt to travel into the air tract and give the MAF sensor false readings.

DmnStr8 · Dec 21, 2005

Alot of times the screens also serve the purpose of smoothing out the airflow right before it passes over the wires.

I remember that my monte carlo ran bad after I removed the screens.

jmd2914 · Dec 22, 2005

ok dumb question, ive played around with my maf before never seen a screen, where would it be? im tryin to figure out if its already been removed or not.

TomCat · Dec 22, 2005

Yep, same here... I'm guessing the previous owner ripped them out

HISSIN50 · Dec 22, 2005

There is not safe timing advance - it depends upon each motor.

I also would not mess with the TPS. The difference in even 0.20 volts would hardly be perceptable in the throttle pedal.

Other stuff you could do is PITA stuff like sidegapping and indexing the plugs.

Why do you want to lower the FP?

Good luck.

stang2841 · Dec 22, 2005

lowering the fuel pressure because I'm thinking its a tad rich..

when letting off throttle there is many backfires of un burned gasoline in the tail pipes

smell.. and I've been around enough 5.0's to just sense it.. typically advancing the timing will compensate it being so rich but I need more means of leaning it out this time

Black1987Stang · Dec 22, 2005

Playing with the fp wont matter since the computer adjusts the pulsewidth to achieve the best mixture so i dont think that would matter...Im sure Hissin can tell more about this. Just keep the tps at .98 volts....Maybe its running rich cuz its at a way too high voltage? The screen in the maf should be right in front...youll see a groove cut out in the front for the big clip that holds the screen in there. I would keep it in there, It helps smooth the air flow out for the maf

RUNINAGT · Dec 22, 2005

I just recently advanced mine to 14. It was @ 8. It made a considerable difference. Yesterday had underdrive pulleys installed. Considerable difference again. Then again mine is pretty well stock as well.

HISSIN50 · Dec 22, 2005

87 SD is correct. THe puter will simply open the injector pulsewidth dwell if FP is lowered. There is a special (and a bit complicated, I might add) deceleration strategy. It sounds like there could be another issue at work causing the backfire.

Good luck.

jrichker · Dec 22, 2005

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

*1.) I got a metal flange adapter from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was over a year ago. Summit Racing may also have one too.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/

stang2841 · Dec 22, 2005

I got a 93ECU original 5spd...

would the 94/95 MAF work for me? I'm running an open conical filter unfortunately.. what would I need to swap to the bigger MAF?

I can probably get away with that one relatively cheap.

jrichker · Dec 22, 2005

stang2841 said:
I got a 93ECU original 5spd...

would the 94/95 MAF work for me? I'm running an open conical filter unfortunately.. what would I need to swap to the bigger MAF?

I can probably get away with that one relatively cheap.

It should work, the 93 ECU is the same as the 89. All you need is the flange to slip on adapter. If you absolutely have to locate the conical filter in the engine compartment, I recommend an aluminum shield around it to protect it from the turbulent air from the fan.

Black1987Stang · Dec 23, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
There is a special (and a bit complicated, I might add) deceleration strategy.

What do u mean by this?

HISSIN50 · Dec 23, 2005

87stangdiddle said:
What do u mean by this?

Upon deceleration, there are some interesting dynamics at work. As far as the computer is concerned, it uses input from the TPS and VSS to ascertain that one is decelerating. I am not sure if SD cars (MAP sensor) can recognize anything from the very high manifold vac - I kinda doubt it.

The IAC does a little dance (it can be open, closed or inbetween) depending upon exactly what part of the RPM band one is at, and a couple other variables.
Injectors can dial back dwell.
Spark can advance since there is no load, and emissions stuff can shut off.

And these things can change depending upon temps and RPM. So one can see that a few systems are working together and issues can pop (no pun intended) up. There are other dynamics at work as well.

As one decelerates, the EEC might be bouncing in and out of CL, which can allow a slightly rich mixture to occur. This can lead to a backfire in the pipe. That was kind of my original point with regard to Stang 2841.

And I am sure JRichker knows a lot more about it, and can correct any errors or misinterpretations I made.

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