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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Fricken brake lines

  • Thread starter Thread starter 19stang66
  • Start date Start date Aug 21, 2005
1

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
0
16
Aug 21, 2005
#1
  • Aug 21, 2005
  • #1
Well Im installing the new dual resevior m/c and for the life of me I can't get the old curly line out of the front of the distribution block. 7/16 flare nut wrench won't even go on for some reason and a locking pliers won't loosen it. All it does is bend the bracket its attached to. Penetrating oil isn't helping much. :damnit: Anyone have anymore suggestions. This is really pissing me off. Oh and the damn steering wheel wont come off. Where can I get a puller???
 

krash kendall

Active Member
Nov 19, 2004
1,258
0
36
Aldergrove, B.C. Canada
Aug 21, 2005
#2
  • Aug 21, 2005
  • #2
If you are not rying to save the brake line, then cut it and drive a socket onto the fitting. Any auto parts store will have a puller for rent or sale. Or put the nut on a couple threads and pull on the wheel with your knees while tapping the nut with a rubber mallet.
 
1

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
0
16
Aug 21, 2005
#3
  • Aug 21, 2005
  • #3
wouldnt i need a special socket or something because the nut isnt the regular star pattern and all it would do is strip the nut?? i already broke the line off. i cant do anything else because of this fricken nut.
 

67coupe351w

New Member
Jan 31, 2004
424
0
0
Portland, OR
Aug 21, 2005
#4
  • Aug 21, 2005
  • #4
Try grabbing it real tight wit ha big pair of channel locks, that seens to work good for me.
 
1

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
0
16
Aug 21, 2005
#5
  • Aug 21, 2005
  • #5
tried and failed.
 
1

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
0
16
Aug 22, 2005
#6
  • Aug 22, 2005
  • #6
I've lost all hope. Nothing works and I'm pretty sure the nut is stripped now. I also can't get the nut off the rear line where it meets the rear flex hose. That nut is stripped too. Can I cut the old metal line someways back and just attach a new line to the old line some way or would I have to replace the whole line. I'm thinking I gonna have to replace all of the lines seeing that none of them are coming loose from the distribution block. Is it cheaper/better to bend my own lines or do they make a reasonably priced pre-bent brake line kit??? Help ASAP. Thanks!
 

krash kendall

Active Member
Nov 19, 2004
1,258
0
36
Aldergrove, B.C. Canada
Aug 22, 2005
#7
  • Aug 22, 2005
  • #7
Making your own double flair lines isn't terribly difficult, but a flair tool kit will run you over 100 bucks. I wound up buying one because I got tired of sourcing one out to borrow every time I needed to do a brake line.

You can also buy pre-flaired lines with the fittings on in various lengths then bend them to fit. You usually wind up cutting them and needing to flair them anyway.

Your other option is to have a brake shop do them. It shouldn't cost too much and I'm sure your dad would aprove.
 
1

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
0
16
Aug 22, 2005
#8
  • Aug 22, 2005
  • #8
Alrighty. Does anyone know how much line you would need if you wanted to do it yourself and what size o.d. the line is? My uncle owns an automotive shop at his house only a few minutes away, maybe he could do it for me.
 

Capt Dan

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
237
0
0
College Station, Texas
Aug 22, 2005
#9
  • Aug 22, 2005
  • #9
I think you can buy all the lines pre-bent from CJ pony parts. I did it with the fuel lines.
 
1

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
0
16
Aug 22, 2005
#10
  • Aug 22, 2005
  • #10
I get the front and rear pre bent lines from Mustang Depot for $110 prebent with shipping or bend them myself and my uncle can flare them for free. He says i'm better off buying the prebent lines because its hard to get the right bends even with a good bender.
 
1

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
0
16
Aug 22, 2005
#11
  • Aug 22, 2005
  • #11
I just cut the lines from the distribution block so i bought all new lines from Mustang Depot. I saved the d/b though. I had to use a butane torch and heat the fittings up really hot then I used a vise grip on the tightest tension I could do and they came off eventually. Does heating the d/b up like that ruin anything inside? Doesnt look like it did.
 

degins

Member
Sep 18, 2004
361
0
17
Texas
Aug 22, 2005
#12
  • Aug 22, 2005
  • #12
19stang66 said:
Well Im installing the new dual resevior m/c and for the life of me I can't get the old curly line out of the front of the distribution block. 7/16 flare nut wrench won't even go on for some reason and a locking pliers won't loosen it. All it does is bend the bracket its attached to. Penetrating oil isn't helping much. :damnit: Anyone have anymore suggestions. This is really pissing me off. Oh and the damn steering wheel wont come off. Where can I get a puller???
Click to expand...


Dismount the distribution block, get an opened end wrench on the block, get a really tight grip on the fitting with a visegrip, then whack the vise grip really hard with a BFH. Oh yeah, righty tighty, lefty lousy. It will break loose.
 
1

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
0
16
Aug 22, 2005
#13
  • Aug 22, 2005
  • #13
ha too late now. all of the fittings were frozen in there. no way i could have gotten them out with the distribution block still in the car. oh well.
 
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