Front 5-lug setup, Needs tweaking...

[TenorPlayinGuy]

I currently have this setup for my 87 Mustang LX

-Stock Control arms with Prothane Bushings and Steeda X2 Balljoints
-KYB GR2 Struts with BBK Progressive Rate springs
-96 Spindles with 13" power slot rotors and mach1 PBR Calipers

issue, I rub like hell on the control arms with those 17x9 wheels, I rub slightly on the fender but thats to be expected, The alignment is off yes but thats cuz over a year ago I put the car into a freeway embankment at 65mph when it was raining.

So here is what I want to do.

I have a Granatelli K-Member, I also have a set of QA1 Struts so I can do a coil over conversion with either 225-250lb springs. Now I also want to go with a tubular control arm to remove my rubbing issue on the inner back side of both control arms/wheels. I have the 96 spindles which move the wheels out 5/16th" or 8mm on each side. What if I got the 94-95 control arms with 94-95 spindles to widen the overall setup about an inch or so as compared to the setup I have right now. (I will be going with different front wheels later and wider 91-93 Fenders so any ideas are a plus!) Thanks for anything fellas.

I currently cannot do any u-turns and it bugs me greatly!

Images:

Thanks again fellas, If you need more clarification on what I intend to do then please ask. I tried to be as specific as I could.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Wow, for using 96+ spindles, that wheel is pretty sunk in.

That almost looks like a rear offset wheel mounted up front

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

yeah it might just be that, since i bought those wheels off ebay, I "think" the offset is +24mm, but I cannot be sure. I will be going with a set of Enkei RZ-5's for the narrower wheel later. but for now, I want the good ol' 9in R wheel to fit. and work to full advantage. The fenders I might add are indeed rolled and clearanced for it. They don't rub at all.

I'm more concerned at the loss of turning radius, and the rubbing of the inner wheel lip on the back of the control arms.

 

[Mustang5L5]

The prob with correcting with SN95 arms is that you'll push the bottom out about an inch, but the strut will remain fixed up top. As a result, you'll have heavy camber which may not be correctable.

Honestly, with a 9" wheel and 96+ spindles, you should be complaining about the wheel sticking too far out. You've lost your turning radius because of the wheel sitting closer in to the car. As a result, the arc swing that the wheel makes is a lot smaller before making contact.

I

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

well as I said, I have the option of using 8.5in or 7.5in wheels up front when I do this. So the wheel width isn't a concern as the manufacturer has many different offsets. I'm needing to know that the wheel arc would be fixed if using the 94/94 setup rather than the 96+/Fox setup I currently have. I know using the 94arms with the 96 spindles would be crazy width that would require some aftermarket fenders or other means of persuasion.

In the rear I will deal with measuring the offset using both a 94 width rear end or my stock fox rear width. (I am using stock length 31 spline 5-lug axles with NorthRaceCar brackets and cobra calipers/rotors) The wheel width is 9.5 in the rear with either a +36 or +24 offset, Depending on what width tire I wish to use.

My problem is the front: Like I said, I rub the control arm with the inner lip of the wheel before I get to the lock. Causing damage to my wheel, and making a whole lot of embarrassing noise.

I understand the arc issue with running this wide of a tire and the shorter control arms. Heck maybe even the rack that Im using is an issue. Hence why I am taking care of it all at once. (Am Using the AGR rack from Summit Racing). using a steeda bumpsteer kit, and aluminum offset rack bushings, or should I use center bushings? It's really a freeway brawler/DD car, so I'm not going for super handling, but I do hate slipping in the rain, and I do want to make a similar to stock U-Turn.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

Do NOT run 94-04 lower control arms. They will push the wheels out past the fenders. Even with 94-95 spindles. 94+ LCA's push the wheels out 1-1/2" per side. And 94-95 spindles will only bring the wheel in 8mm. You need to run 17X8 wheels up front or run 1/4" spacers.

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

i'll be using a 18x8 wheel, i'm not worried about fender clearance, rather the inner fender/control arm clearance. Will using the 94 spindles and control arms allow me to turn better than my current setup. thats my real only question

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

Bump^^

 

[93 LX]

Well Ihad to install rack limiters to stop the wheel from rubbing the control arms..

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

using what setup?

I want to be able to do my u-turn again, I have having to make a 2-3pt turn when a big ol' crewcab/longbed truck can make the stupid u-turn!

If the stock length arms will get rid of the rub, then I can just do that route (Tubular I mean)

I guess I want an answer from someone running some MM Tubular Control arms in either the stock or sn-95 width, while running a 17x9 cobra wheel. thats what I need. And i've been searching forever and can't find anything out.

 

[93 LX]

on my stock 93 stang. When i replaced the rack the wheels would hit the a-arms. I had to add limiters. If your concerned about being able to turn around with out doing a k turn then you are driving the wrong car. I have 3 fox cars and none of them can turn aaround on my street. The Wifes PT can make the turn with room to spare. LOL

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

I used to be able to make this turn though.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Anything using 94-95 spindles on ANY A-arm is going to bring the arms in closer to the center of axis making the problem worse

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

There are ways to increase the steering angle on this car. I simply want to know if the 94 arm will give me more angle room than a fox arm. If I move the wheel out I'll have more room from the inner fender, if I use the shorter fox one I dont. using the 96+ in conjunction with the 94 arm is a bit crazy in width. But would net me positioning the wheels in an arc that would clear the wider area of the A-Arm. I could eliminate this by using a tubular a-arm since it is naturally much more narrow than a stock a-arm.

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

A bit late, but I found out that I really had 94-95 spindles, and that the addition of Tubular LCA's cut the amount of metal in the way on the backside of the arms that used to grind the wheel. I can now make better turns than before. But I have the normal clearance issues with the front of the wheel opening near the extension. Nothing a dremel can't fix. I'll show it all later once I get the pictures loaded on the website. Thanks for everyones input.