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Fox Front Springs Install Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter rhannigan
  • Start date Start date Oct 18, 2016
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stpete

Well-Known Member
Dec 26, 2015
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Oct 20, 2016
#21
  • Oct 20, 2016
  • #21
FoxMustangLvr said:
The bottom pic is the one i'd use. I prefer to use the external type with locking pins. Honestly mine do not have the safety pins which is always a risk but I've used them dozens of times without issue. The only time I didn't feel safe with my spring compressors was when I tried to use them on my F-150 springs when I installed my adjustable Bilsteins. I ended up outsourcing that job to a shop.
Click to expand...

When I did mine, the safety pins would get stuck on the Eibach springs. They were OK removing the stock springs, but not so good installing the new ones. The spring was too thick for them. I also had to shorten the bolts, they were way too long and interfered with the spring getting into the perches.
 

FoxMustangLvr

I love my Pimp
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Oct 20, 2016
#22
  • Oct 20, 2016
  • #22
stpete said:
When I did mine, the safety pins would get stuck on the Eibach springs. They were OK removing the stock springs, but not so good installing the new ones. The spring was too thick for them. I also had to shorten the bolts, they were way too long and interfered with the spring getting into the perches.
Click to expand...
I've heard a lot of people have that issue with the pins getting in the way. I also had to cut the bolts on the spring compressor tool for clearance. I've never had to use the full length of them anyway so there wasn't a second though about doing it.
 
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mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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Oct 20, 2016
#23
  • Oct 20, 2016
  • #23
If you are that concerned, take the springs to a machine shop or go to autozone and rent for free the spring compressor. compress them and wrap the middle coils with bailing wire. Install the springs with the bailing wire on, jack up the A Arm, reconnexct the spindle, Strut, tie rod, sway bar and cut and remove the wire.
 
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RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT
Mod Dude
Jul 20, 2014
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Oct 20, 2016
#24
  • Oct 20, 2016
  • #24
mikestang63 said:
If you are that concerned, take the springs to a machine shop or go to autozone and rent for free the spring compressor. compress them and wrap the middle coils with bailing wire. Install the springs with the bailing wire on, jack up the A Arm, reconnexct the spindle, Strut, tie rod, sway bar and cut and remove the wire.
Click to expand...
I've done this method a few times... Works well lol
 
R

rhannigan

Active Member
Sep 13, 2016
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Oct 21, 2016
#25
  • Oct 21, 2016
  • #25
Went and rented the spring compressor and tie rod ball joint separator lastnight. I will post pics this weekend of my progress. Thank all for the helpful info.
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
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Oct 21, 2016
#26
  • Oct 21, 2016
  • #26
You guys all are scaring the hell out of me...

Here is how I replace front springs... I feel safe doing it this way and haven't had a single mishap in the hundred or so sets of springs I've replaced in over the years. With the proper tools and a floor jack you should be able to swap all 4 springs on a foxbody in under an hour if you are hustling.

Jack up the car and place on jack stands, use level ground and chock the rear wheels on at least one side if the entire car is not off the ground
Remove sway bar end links if equipped
Loosen and remove nuts on back side of lower control arm
Support the back side of the control arm with a jack
Remove both bolts from rear of a arm
Slowly lower a arm down until spring falls out
Install new spring
Jack up a arm with floor jack carefully guiding into position
Using an alignment dowel or pry bar align the control are and insert the bolts
Remove the jack
Install nuts on control arm bolts and tighten
Re install sway bar end links if equipped
Lower car from lift and live the low life!

Rear springs I feel like are very straight forward, let me know if you need the play by play for these as well?

Good luck and stay safe!

My method does not even require removing the wheels, no ball joints or tie rods to mess with and zero specialty tools.
 
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R

rhannigan

Active Member
Sep 13, 2016
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Oct 21, 2016
#27
  • Oct 21, 2016
  • #27
84Ttop said:
You guys all are scaring the hell out of me...

Here is how I replace front springs... I feel safe doing it this way and haven't had a single mishap in the hundred or so sets of springs I've replaced in over the years. With the proper tools and a floor jack you should be able to swap all 4 springs on a foxbody in under an hour if you are hustling.

Jack up the car and place on jack stands, use level ground and chock the rear wheels on at least one side if the entire car is not off the ground
Remove sway bar end links if equipped
Loosen and remove nuts on back side of lower control arm
Support the back side of the control arm with a jack
Remove both bolts from rear of a arm
Slowly lower a arm down until spring falls out
Install new spring
Jack up a arm with floor jack carefully guiding into position
Using an alignment dowel or pry bar align the control are and insert the bolts
Remove the jack
Install nuts on control arm bolts and tighten
Re install sway bar end links if equipped
Lower car from lift and live the low life!

Rear springs I feel like are very straight forward, let me know if you need the play by play for these as well?

Good luck and stay safe!

My method does not even require removing the wheels, no ball joints or tie rods to mess with and zero specialty tools.
Click to expand...

84Ttop, this seems to be a much different procedure than everyone else. I want to clarify. Are you saying to remove the bolts I have circled in red on the attachment?

 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
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Oct 21, 2016
#28
  • Oct 21, 2016
  • #28
rhannigan said:
84Ttop, this seems to be a much different procedure than everyone else. I want to clarify. Are you saying to remove the bolts I have circled in red on the attachment?

Click to expand...
Exactly!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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#29
  • Oct 21, 2016
  • #29
should he drop the car down on all fours before tight'n the 2 rear bolts on the fronts?
 

FoxMustangLvr

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#30
  • Oct 21, 2016
  • #30
karthief said:
should he drop the car down on all fours before tight'n the 2 rear bolts on the fronts?
Click to expand...
Yes but you won't be able to get under the car while it's on the ground. Jack up the car at the outer most part of the control arm and then tighten the two control arm bolts to spec. I think it's something like 125 ft lbs?
 

mikestang63

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Aug 27, 2012
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#31
  • Oct 21, 2016
  • #31
If you have stock rubber bushings you can tighten it up in the air. If poly you need to wait until the weight of the car is on the wheels. Poly bushings bind- rubber ones don't.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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#32
  • Oct 21, 2016
  • #32
I've done springs with hose clamps before. Mach 1 springs aren't exactly the easiest to put in. But a dozen hose clamps tightened down evenly sure made it easy

For the record, I pooped myself silly doing this. Now I'm old and wiser and will rent/buy the correct tool.

Speaking of which, I need to do this as my front is a tad high


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
27,998
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polk county florida
Oct 21, 2016
#33
  • Oct 21, 2016
  • #33
Mustang5L5 said:
I've done springs with hose clamps before. Mach 1 springs aren't exactly the easiest to put in. But a dozen hose clamps tightened down evenly sure made it easy

For the record, I pooped myself silly doing this. Now I'm old and wiser and will rent/buy the correct tool.

Speaking of which, I need to do this as my front is a tad high


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Just a dozen? I love that ' gotta get it' done ingenuity. Reminds me of my youth.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,290
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Oct 22, 2016
#34
  • Oct 22, 2016
  • #34
Yup, didn't use that many actually. Held quite well. After spring was installed and weight of car on it, I used tin snips to cut the hose clamps off.

But like I said, next time I'll just rent/buy the correct tool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
R

rhannigan

Active Member
Sep 13, 2016
36
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Las Vegas
Oct 23, 2016
#35
  • Oct 23, 2016
  • #35
Success with disassembly. While I have it apart I'm going to replace the outer tie-rod ball joints, struts and sway bar end links. Placed the orders today. Post pics of reassembly soon.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited: Oct 24, 2016
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krazedstang

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Oct 24, 2016
#36
  • Oct 24, 2016
  • #36
Rears were MUCH easier than the front.


 
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rhannigan

Active Member
Sep 13, 2016
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Las Vegas
Oct 30, 2016
#37
  • Oct 30, 2016
  • #37
The ball joint on the spindle needs replacement. I rented the ball joint pressing/removing tool and ordered replacement ball joints from Summit Racing.





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Last edited: Oct 31, 2016
Reactions: Davedacarpainter

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
27,998
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polk county florida
Oct 30, 2016
#38
  • Oct 30, 2016
  • #38
I think they come out the bottom.
 
Reactions: rhannigan
R

rhannigan

Active Member
Sep 13, 2016
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Las Vegas
Oct 30, 2016
#39
  • Oct 30, 2016
  • #39
Success! Ready to press in the new ball joint.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited: Oct 31, 2016
R

rhannigan

Active Member
Sep 13, 2016
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Las Vegas
Oct 31, 2016
#40
  • Oct 31, 2016
  • #40
Did a dry run last night and discovered that none of the cylinders that came with the ball joint install toolkit fit the new ball joint adequately. There is a supplemental adapter set that I'm going to rent today.

 
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