I have a 91 Notchback, originally a 4cyl, converted with an 89 5.0 HO motor and a tremec tranny. The problem is that i thought my fuel pump took a ****, (i still have EFI in the car with the in tank pump) and just to make sure it was the pump that went, i tested the wires that run in the trunk and down into the tank and i had no power to any of the wires. So i bought all new relays and everything, replaced the one under the drivers side seat, and the one above the ECM. I thought sweet, now she will work, ......no good, still now power. So i got pissed and just wired the fuel pump to a switch and now the fuel pump worked....problem solved. Not really, for some reason i can figure out, the car runs normal under 3500 rpms, once i go over that it completely breaks up, the tach goes wild, and it just goes duh duh...duh duh.....duh, and wants to stall out. But it clears up then and goes back to idle normal again. I know when i get over 3500 rpms, it just like dumps the fuel cause it starts flooding it out cause the plugs are wet then and it starts to smoke out of the tailpipes, but then goes away when it goes back to idle. I dont know what to do, i replaced the d.cap, coil, plugs, wires, i put in a new TFI module, and even took the ECM out of my buddies car and stuck it in mine to see if it was the computer and it still did the same thing. i dont know what to do now....and im pissed cause my car is just sitting there. Any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks!
Fuel? electrical? Timing advance? i cant figure this out
- Thread starter importhater5.0
- Start date
SPEEDYLIFSAVR
Founding Member
check your FPR , is it stock or aftermarket? get a fuel pressure guage on there too . make sure the vacuum hose is hooked up and check the vacuum ,
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
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