This thread is a couple years old but no big deal, let me help you here, did you lube the O rings before assembly? Also sometimes the holes in the intake and the fuel rail gets junk in them, make sure they are clean, lube the O rings and try again, the tabs are slotted on my stock rails so you can push down on them a little when tightening, it is possible the tabs got a little tweeked but try my suggestion first before bending anything.
having this issue right now on my 94 after my Vortech V3 install. So basically installed a V3 and went from 24's to Deatschwerks 60's and from a 75 Pro M to a 90 mm Sct ba 2600 and a 4 boostmaster pipe along with a 255. I took the heater bypass tube off and are running hoses instead. When I fired the car up yesterday for the first time it fired right up each time but I had to play with the throttle some to keep it running but after cutting it off and looking over some things and starting it back up, it later settled in with staying running but it sounded like the timing was off. I did not mess with the base timing that was set for my NA setup which had an Sct chip dyno tune. I sent the chip to the tuner for him to make a startup tune based on the changes and I would later take the car to see how much power it's making and any tweaks if need be.at l
I noticed the volt gauge was jumping from 14 something and fluctuating so I wanted to check the alternator and all wiring to it. I did break the little small wire when taking the alternator loose so I glued it back and when I put it back on it was nice and snug and didn't want to come off as in not holding fine. I pulled on it and stuff and it seems fine. I also when fastening the 10mm nut I has a slight arc from hitting the wrench hitting something but the alt fuse didn't pop. It's crazy because I had the negative cable loose off but forgot I had it just sitting on the battery for when I trickle charge the car at night. I did find that the 7/16 bolts on the terminals, the one that goes to the Alt could've been a little tighter. Actually when I first went to start the car it just clicked. I was like I know the battery should be fine because it trickle charged for almost 2 months every day. Anyway I tightened the posi post a little more and the car fired up. It was late last night after researching some stuff I decided to go back out and try a few things with the Alt and that looked find and so looking at the Alt wire going to the posi terminal I didn't like the angle so I changed it and made it straight, tightened back down and started the car and it fired up and idled fine and the volts was not jumping. I was like cool that's what it was so I felt confident this morning I'd be good to go.
Well started the car this morning and it actually continued where I left last night for the first probably 5 minuts then I heard the idle change and after another 3 minutes the volts moved some but not as much as it was yesterday when moving maybe from 14 to 13 something or 12.5. The last thing I did tonight was check the volts at the battery with car off and it was about 13 and when I fired up the car it was 14 something and turned on the headlights and radio and it was still at 14 something so that is crazy. I am going to check the 1 alt wire going to one bolt on the posi terminal and see where it's going because I did the big 3 upgrade when the engine was in the last car. I can't remember exactly where that wire is going. I gotta look back and see where they go.
So back to the point of this thread, earlier today while diagnosing I was in the car with it running and heard hissing. I went and looked and saw fuel coming out at the number 5 injector so shut it off and when I looked I could see the blue oring of the injector so I knew it wasn't seated all the way. I know it was seated when I swapped the injectors though and so I took the intake off and inspected them all and put it back together. It kinda looked like the fuel rail for the no. 5 might've been in a comprimising angle kind of but not drastic and I would've think if it was not right it would've leaked right away. I will remove the intake again and remove them all and start with the no. 5 first. I think also looks like I might need to pull the line between the rails that runs behind the dizzy, might need to pull it more to the driver's side some and it shouldn't be wedged to where it can't move some.
Now I got to research the big 3 Alt wire upgrade because I will defintely make sure that posi wire wherever it's going is nice and tight. It's just crazy though.......
update-
just went and look and actually that posi wire isn't from the big 3 wire upgrade it's the wire I'm assuming that goes to the starter correct? The big black ground and the big posi that's in a loom together it appears that those go to the starter. Based on what I said earlier I'm going to see if the volts are still doing what it was as to fine then starts moving some. I gotta figure it out also to eliminate the startup tune being an issue as to when I attempted to drive it yesterday it didn't have any power really but i'd think it seems to be more of an electronic issue to where just not getting full power or something constantly.........
Also forgot to add another thing I noticed was the car was taking a long time to warm up and come to find out I had the heater hoses at the heater core going to the wrong side. Even after I switched them today it was still taking an extremely long time to warm up so prior it's crazy because I did not have any of these issues prior to the supercharger install. Like I said I did away with the heater bypass too and so I have an adapter that accepts a hose barb for the hose and up top of the adapter the ECT sensor screws into it so it can't be a situation where the sensor has to be in the horizontal position like stock versus straight up because the adapter allows coolant to still reach the sensor.....
