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Fuel Lines

  • Thread starter Thread starter cadams155
  • Start date Start date Jun 4, 2014
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cadams155

Member
Apr 20, 2014
61
2
9
Tampa Bay, Fl
Jun 4, 2014
#1
  • Jun 4, 2014
  • #1
Putting 5.0 fuel lines in my car and noticed that there is a kink in the soft lines right after it connects to the hard line under the hood. Anyone ever have to replace that soft line? It goes from hard to soft to hard again where it connects to the fuel rail.
 

Spaz

Member
Jan 5, 2013
80
11
19
Pennsylvania
Jun 5, 2014
#2
  • Jun 5, 2014
  • #2
Yes and it was a pita. It's soft on the outside but on the inside is a hard plastic line. I messed around with them for a bit and then I bought the Russell braided stainless fuel lines for 5.0 'Stangs (google them-I can never figure out how to add links in here), and they've been great. I wish I did that first.
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
22
49
Jun 11, 2014
#3
  • Jun 11, 2014
  • #3
Go to autozone, they have efi lines... It's flexible soft line sold by the foot, but designed for efi pressures.... Cut to length use efi clamps, itll work perfect
 
Reactions: stykthyn

cadams155

Member
Apr 20, 2014
61
2
9
Tampa Bay, Fl
Jun 11, 2014
#4
  • Jun 11, 2014
  • #4
Yep that's what I found out as well. Thanks for the reply.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
Jul 6, 2006
5,232
2,652
223
gainesville
Jun 11, 2014
#5
  • Jun 11, 2014
  • #5
That's what I did after the fire. No issues 3 years later.
 

Gearhead92

Member
May 23, 2012
153
6
19
Baltimore area, Maryland
Jul 8, 2014
#6
  • Jul 8, 2014
  • #6
Since I'm having no luck on my post.....

I cut off the lock couplings off of the nylon lines in the engine bay at go to the fuel rail.

I have the Russel braided lines that came with the adapters but I need to get the braided lines to the nylon lines....

What connector should I use?

Images are worth quite a bit if possible

I have these lines:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/russell-fuel-line-kit-8793gt.html

And I need to connect them to the nylon fuel line
 
Last edited: Jul 8, 2014

modulistic

Active Member
Nov 26, 2002
383
30
29
Jul 8, 2014
#7
  • Jul 8, 2014
  • #7
you gotta post a picture of what your car looks like now at the fuel lines. I am having a hard time figuring out what you have going on.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,355
207
114
Ohio
Jul 8, 2014
#8
  • Jul 8, 2014
  • #8
Years back I bought Nylon Line and the Ford Duckbill Connectors from Ron Morris Performance.
 

Gearhead92

Member
May 23, 2012
153
6
19
Baltimore area, Maryland
Jul 8, 2014
#9
  • Jul 8, 2014
  • #9
Unfortunately I am back at school, an hour away from my car. So I will attempt to find supplemental pictures as best I can.

so I bought these rails:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-fuelrail-8693.html#customer-reviews-section

Can I just push in the braided lines into the rail? I don't have the clips...can I get those at a NAPA or autozone/advanced?

These braided lines:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/russell-fuel-line-kit-8793gt.html

I need to connect the braided lines to this:




*Not my picture, found it on google*

using this other picture I found:


I have numbers 2-5 on the Russel braided lines...

BUT I cut the female connector (item 1 above) off of the nylon line in the engine bay.

so i have the metal fuel lines to the frame rail, then the soft rubber lines with nylon inner lines until the motor with no connector, just cut off. I have to join that nylon end to the braided lines some way.
Be it using the spring lock couplings, or a barbed connector to AN threaded brass to go directly into the braided line, which would in turn remove the spring lock coupling connection.
 

modulistic

Active Member
Nov 26, 2002
383
30
29
Jul 8, 2014
#10
  • Jul 8, 2014
  • #10
uhhh... so you cut the female fitting off? I dont know if I would be cobbling together any fuel lines, especially after a gasoline fire. I cant remember how the other end attaches to the hard line.
 

Gearhead92

Member
May 23, 2012
153
6
19
Baltimore area, Maryland
Jul 8, 2014
#11
  • Jul 8, 2014
  • #11
I agree. But I would find it hard to believe that not one has repaired a fuel in this situation. So km sure there is a fitting somewhere that has the barb on one end and threads on the other....
 

Spaz

Member
Jan 5, 2013
80
11
19
Pennsylvania
Jul 9, 2014
#12
  • Jul 9, 2014
  • #12
There is, that's what I have. I'll try to get a picture today since I did it last year I don't remember any part numbers or anything.
 

Gearhead92

Member
May 23, 2012
153
6
19
Baltimore area, Maryland
Jul 9, 2014
#13
  • Jul 9, 2014
  • #13
Awesome, thanks. Do you remember where you got them?
 

Spaz

Member
Jan 5, 2013
80
11
19
Pennsylvania
Jul 10, 2014
#14
  • Jul 10, 2014
  • #14
I just looked at my setup and took a couple of pictures. They are just Earl's AN fittings. If I remember correctly the Russell fittings do unscrew. So I just took them to my local speed shop, and got two Earl's AN to hose barb fittings. Don't use any sealant on AN fittings, they are designed to seal without the use of sealant. So I clamped two rubber fuel injection lines onto the hard lines coming out from the "frame", and clamped them right to the two hose barbs that are now coming down out of the bottom of the Russell lines. It's been over a year of daily (and spirited) driving with no problems at all. I don't have a smart phone so it is a PITA to get pictures on the computer but I will put them on later if I get home from work at a decent hour.
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
3,254
204
South Jersey
Jul 10, 2014
#15
  • Jul 10, 2014
  • #15
This may not be the exact part number that you need, maybe a call to doorman will nail that down but they make a proper repair kit with the correct hose ends. Try this link to see what I'm talking about
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...3zg4KyU5xG4DosMU7Mm11VU33RaVtUQw-bRoCROPw_wcB

Hose barbs and hose clamps just are not the right way to fix high pressure fuel injection hoses (even if it does work)
 

Gearhead92

Member
May 23, 2012
153
6
19
Baltimore area, Maryland
Jul 10, 2014
#16
  • Jul 10, 2014
  • #16
Awesome thanks.

I do understand that clamps and barbs aren't the correct way to fix them, but it does work.

I may just take it to a shop and have them replace the lines all the way back to the metal lines on the frame. I just trying to find an option that works and gets my car back on the road.
 

Gearhead92

Member
May 23, 2012
153
6
19
Baltimore area, Maryland
Jul 10, 2014
#17
  • Jul 10, 2014
  • #17
I guess the big question is how these Russell braided lines are supposed to be installed in the first place.

I've seen some places where they say they replace the soft lines coming from the frame rail without modification...which doesn't make sense to me.
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
3,254
204
South Jersey
Jul 10, 2014
#18
  • Jul 10, 2014
  • #18
The russell braided lines that you posted earlier simply use the stock push in spring loaded connectors. These eliminate the chrome steel factory fuel lines.
I personally don't care for the bbk fuel rail kit due the the rubber hose that they use but that's just me I guess. Neither the fuel rails or these braided lines are going to address your problems with the plastic nylon fuel lines coming from the frame rail
 

Gearhead92

Member
May 23, 2012
153
6
19
Baltimore area, Maryland
Jul 10, 2014
#19
  • Jul 10, 2014
  • #19
Yeah, I have found this out. That was my original thought on the installation.

Are the Russell stainless lines both -6 AN? Or is one a -6 and one a -8?

I seem to have found the correct Earl fittings that I need to solve my issue.

The pictures would still be very useful @Spaz

Thanks guys
 
Last edited: Jul 10, 2014

Spaz

Member
Jan 5, 2013
80
11
19
Pennsylvania
Jul 10, 2014
#20
  • Jul 10, 2014
  • #20
Agreed it is not the best/correct way, but in a pinch..
 
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