Fuel problem

4cMadness · Jan 1, 2007

I've got a problem getting my 88 2.3 LX to crank. I was sitting at a red light the other day and it just died on me. The whole car smells like gasoline, I thought maybe it was flooded, but it's been 2 days now and it still won't crank. The starter is turning over strong, but no ignition. The fuel pump and filter were just changed about 6 months ago and are brand new. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are new too. For the past 2 weeks or so, I've noticed that I have to start the car two or three times cause the first time I start it up, it dies immediately after, and I have to restart it. Any ideas on what might be wrong? My car is sitting on the side of the road now, and I've no way to tow it, so if it's something simple, I'll probably fix it there. Please help !!!

4cMadness · Jan 4, 2007

Upon further examination, I disconnected the plug wire from the #1

plug and had a friend start the car to see if I could watch the spark

arc across from the plug wire to the plug. No spark. I tried it at the

coil also and still no spark.

I went ahead and replaced the coil thinking maybe that was it since

it didn't spark, I tried it again but I'm still not getting any spark. Any

suggestions at all? Anybody?

4cMadness · Jan 5, 2007

Nobody has ANY ideas? Nobody at all? I mean anything. Anything at all, just throw out some ideas. With the wealth of mechanical knowledge our members here posess, there's got to be at least one single good suggestion here. Please?

Do I smell funny or something? Is my login name stupid? Maybe you just don't like hatchback mustangs? Come on I'm really stuck here, my car's sitting on the side of the road, and I've got no other resources available. Please someone help me, anything is appreciated. I'm really at the end of my rope here for ideas.

mg man · Jan 5, 2007

Will try to help not the smartest here. Take distributor cap off crank it over is rotor turning if no check timing belt if ok may stripped distributor shaft. If all this ok maybe TFI module on distributor. Do a internet search on how to test it should find. Or you can try another. Don't forget to use heatsink paste between it and distributor or you will get to do it again. Hope this helps.

Ponycar · Jan 8, 2007

The TFI controls spark. it's mounted on the side of the dist. bad tfi = no spark.

4cMadness · Jan 8, 2007

Ponycar said:
The TFI controls spark. it's mounted on the side of the dist. bad tfi = no spark.

That's the next thing I'm gonna check. I pulled the dist cap and the rotor is spinning. Is there anyway to test the tfi or do I just have to buy one and see if that fixes it?

Also I noticed that the contact points on the inside of the distributor cap are corroded to hell. I cleaned them up not that it fixed anything, but does that point to another problem maybe?

Ponycar · Jan 8, 2007

auto zone can test the tfi. the hard thing is in removal, either you need a thin wall socket or buy the special tool. don't remember how much it is though....

mg man · Jan 8, 2007

According some posts autoparts can, call 1st. Didn't say test on or off car. Autozone has a method using a ohm meter go to repair info and type in year,type of etc. May have to buy special little nutdriver to remove hex screws not too expensive. hope this helps

mg man · Jan 8, 2007

Talking about double post, Like minds ha ha

4cMadness · Jan 9, 2007

Pulling the distributor is starting to be a bitch. This is one very frustrating job.

Ponycar · Jan 9, 2007

there is no need to remove the dist. the tfi bolts to the side of it- gray plastic piece with an elec plug and 2 screws

4cMadness · Jan 9, 2007

Ponycar said:
there is no need to remove the dist. the tfi bolts to the side of it- gray plastic piece with an elec plug and 2 screws

Oh NOW you tell me.

Anyways, I got the module off and it tested bad. Glad you guys helped me, I never would've figured it out myself. Does anything else have to be readjusted afterwards like tps, or timing? I didn't actually get the distributor out, just spent 3 hours trying to figure out how.

Ponycar · Jan 9, 2007

no. just be sure to use the dieletric paste incl w/ the new part otherwise it will burn out

4cMadness · Jan 9, 2007

Just one more thing. Firing order is 1-3-4-2 starting at the bottom right terminal on the cap and then going clockwise right? ( I took the plug wires off of the cap before I knew you didn't have to take out the whole distributor.)

And just thinking...I've heard of people changing the firing order on big V8's to get more power and gas mileage. I don't suppose there are any alternate firing orders like that for the 2.3L are there?

Update: I just put on the new module with the paste. I accidentally hooked up the firing order at the cap as 1432 instead of 1342 and started the motor. Got a very slight clacking noise and a puff of smoke so I turned it off and double checked the order. I corrected it to 1342 and started it again. It still won't start and the starter still sounds pretty strong, just wont ignite. What the hell is going on, what else could it possibly be?

4cMadness · Jan 9, 2007

Ok, it's been two hours, new tfi module, correct firing order, but still NO SPARK !!!

From my research the only other thing I'm thinking it could be is a PIP sensor. I'm guessing that's the little thing with the wires under the rotor when you take off the cap. How hard is it to change, and would I be better off just getting a whole new distributor?

4cMadness · Jan 10, 2007

I bought a code scanner and for the key on engine off test (only one I can do) I keep getting:

21
24
31

I'm going to look'em up now, anybody know right off what they mean?

Update: Looked up the codes, according to what I found 21 is engine coolant temperature sensor too low voltage, or not at normal range (maybe cause the engine's turned off?)

24 is ACT or VAT sensor

31 is EGR voltage below spec (I removed the egr entirely so I know why this one)

Would the ACT or VAT sensors be able to cause this problem?

Ponycar · Jan 10, 2007

the sensor in the dist is the hall effect switch. from the manuals I have it cannot be replaced. have to replace the dist... when you checked for spark, I assume you placed a screwdriver in the plug wire and shorted it to the block? or bought the inline spark tester?. also, you mentioned that when the wires were not in correct firing order you tried to start it and I got the impression that the engine tried to run a few seconds before you turned off????. if so that means spark. did you check your timing to ensure the belt did not jump..only takes a tooth or so...

4cMadness · Jan 10, 2007

on the coil I tested for spark by holding the plug wire about a quarter inch away from the coil terminal and watching a giant blue spark arc across. I also got the piss shocked out of me

With the wrong firing order the engine did attempt to start, but it was weak and ragged and wouldn't have lasted more than a few seconds even if I hadn't shut it off, it was VERY rough.

Just took another look at the cap and rotor, and the cap looks corroded at the terminals on the inside of the cap, and the tip of the rotor has turned black.

Getting spark on the coil side but not the plug side.

4cMadness · Jan 10, 2007

Problem solved. Just wanting to try something I changed the cap and rotor, and it fired right up. I thought for sure it'd be that tfi module after it tested bad at autozone, but it sure as hell runs a lot better now with the new module, no up and down idleing, and it starts with the first crank. Thanks for the help guys !!!

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