Fuel Pump Cut Off Switch And Other Crap.

ShawGS

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
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Have been having a recurring problem for past few months now. I have a 95 GT that seems to want to start and stay running only when it wants to. Will normally start in the morning but will only go about 5 miles before shutting down. Sometimes can pop the clutch to restart however not often. The battery, alternator and distrib all fine. I hear the whine of the fuel pump priming when key is turned and 2 to 3 seconds later goes away. I know I have fuel am not that stupid... Usually. Have checked all my fuses and all seem fine yet car will still cut out on me and it's getting worse each day. Damn thing cut out on me 13 times yesterday morning in about 1/10th of a mile. Looked at the fuel cut off switch in the trunk and it looks to be stuck in a depressed position. Is this normal? Am just short of putting a bullet into the engine block and burying it in the back yard. Don't want to waste money by throwing parts at it cause with my luck it's something small and simple. :nonono:
 
The button on the intertia switch in the trunk is supposed to be pushed in, only pops out if there's a sudden impact on the car.

It sounds like you have the really common PIP / Stator problem in your distributor. Seems like this plague is hitting alot of our cars all at once! Mine did this and I replaced the PIP sensor in the distributor and now all it well again.

You have two choices, buy a new distrubutor (not rebuilt because it could have the old PIP in it) or you can buy a new PIP sensor and install it into your distributor. I'd only recommend the latter option if you are familier with general mechanics and have a bench vise or press at your disposal.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask, alot of peepes here have had this problem and fixed it one way or another. good luck!
 
Took car to local mechanic have used many times in the past. He checked fuel pressure and it's reading low. Says the fuel pump is definitely weak. But of course the entire time he had my car it acted normally. :nonono:
 
That isn't god awful low. And that could just as easily be caused by a bad regulator. Also, when he checked the pressure, did he disconnect your vacuum line going to the regulator?

I still think your problem lies with the ignition system and is probably caused by the PIP sensor. Change that anyway for preventative maintanence and peace of mind! If it fixes it great, if not then you saved yourself some headaches down the line.
 
Pull codes and check for spark, inj pulsing and FP when it craps out and won't restart. This is the only time that any diagnostics mean anything.

Good luck.
 
i agree with mark (shawGS). when my pip went out i had the exact same intermitant stalling/ not starting issues. besides if you haven't run into issues with the dizzy yet then your overdue. pip=$20, dizzy=$120/ warrenty. hissin is also correct, ck codes first and diagnose when you actually have the prob. if you have no codes look at the dizzy.