Fuel Pump Eccentric

That's just it, you're mixing old (TC) with new (cam/gears). My stock 289 with original TC, gears, cam, etc. used the one piece eccentric. I *think* the later 302's used a 2pc. but don't remember what year they changed.

The difference I was shown was in the cam gear center, where the eccentric sits against it. One year cam gear is thicker in this area and the other is thinner so you have to use the eccentric that matches up with the cam gear/cover. If you put the thicker gear with the 2pc? eccentric and early model TC it will rub the back of the TC and grind a hole in it. See if the books you get verify that but I know that mixing the wrong combination will result in contact with the backside of the TC.

Jon

Funnel,
Do you have the timing cover off yet? One of the easiest ways to tell which eccentric you need is to look at what is currently installed on the front of your cam gear. With the engine you describe, it will likely have a stamped steel oil slinger that looks like this:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/835309-what.html

on the front of your cam gear. If the slinger has a little tab that fits into a hole in the cam gear, to locate it, then you need the 2-piece eccentric. If there is a small (1/4" or so) dowel sticking out of the front of the cam gear (after bolt and slinger is removed) then you need a 1-piece. Contrary to what you would assume, the 2-piece eccentric is actually shorter/more shallow than the 1-piece. You likely already know that you can't use the vibration damper and/or flywheel/flex-plate from your original engine due to the difference between 50 ounce and 28 ounce imbalance issues? Not to mention, that your 64.5 bell housing has a different bolt pattern than your 93 engine? I would use this balancer:

Professional Products 80007 - Professional Products PowerForce Harmonic Dampers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

as it has both 4-bolt & 3-bolt pulley patterns as well as provisions for both "inny" & "outy" style crank pulleys. More details (manual vs automatic trans) are needed to help with your flywheel and bell housing compatibilities. Personally, I would install a new timing chain and gear set (with 3 or 9 crankshaft key ways for possible future cam timing adjustments) while it is this far apart. At least a new stock set. Just make sure the timing set is properly provisioned for the eccentric you are using. Let us know, and we can give you part numbers. Mix and match of front components on these engines can be confusing, but there are a couple of "right" ways to do it, as long as you have the correct prior info.
HTH,
Gene

What timing cover are you going to use and does it have a cast-on pointer or a bolt on? Which timing marks you use will depend on whether your water pump/radiator combo is for a driver side or passenger side lower radiator hose. While it's apart and on the stand, I would get a degree wheel:

COMP Cams 4790 - COMP Cams Sportsman Degree Wheels - Overview - SummitRacing.com

and a piston stop:

Crane Cams 99412-1 - Crane Piston Stop Tools - Overview - SummitRacing.com

and learn how to use them (real easy) to find your true Top Dead Center and note how it relates to your damper/pointer combo. Here is a very cool and informative read:

http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/803.pdf

By the way, I thought you posted the you already bought the fuel pump eccentric? If not:

COMP Cams 235 - COMP Cams Engine Finishing Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Knowledge is key to understanding.
Have Fun & Be Safe,
Gene

Funnel,
You asked:
"Anyway, assuming I need a 2-pc and can get a complete kit, does the Comp 235 kit have the right eccentric?"
From the pic and description, it sure seems to. Sounds like a call to the vendor you purchased from is in order. They should send a new kit for free, with all shipping (even for return of deficient kit) on their dime!
Gene