Fuel Pump Gets Loud

[S&B]

So in the 1993 after about 3 hours or so of driving , when your at idle you can defiantly hear the pump it has a big pitched RC motor type sound. Then after the car sits all night you can drive and it is still audible but not something you can distinguish between the crapmasters and the rest of the car.

I do remember the guy telling me that he replaced the fuel pump, could he have put a bigger fuel pump in, and if so does it need a Fuel pressure regulator or is the pump just dying on me. I always run with a full tank so its not like its overheating.

well hopefully someone has had this issue before don't really feel like dropping the tank and all that happy crap

 

[ID89GT]

I had the same problem on my 89. Was wayyyyyy loud. Like, can stand like 20 feet away from the car and hear it running.. Ended up being the pump itself in my case. Replaced it and all was well. When I dropped the tank I had this orange stuff floating all over as if some gasket had deteriorated in the tank so I am guessing that is what killed the pump since the pump was only like 1 year old.

 

[stykthyn]

I just had a pump die after being 2 years old. walbro time.

 

[2000xp8]

Many times the pump gets loud after it gets hot, usually it's at the end of it's career.

 

[Onefine88]

Yep it won't be long. My original pump in my '88 got loud intermittently for awhile and then all the time,,,,,,,,,,right before it left me on the side of the road.

Walbro time

 

[S&B]

so I have never changed my own pump. Do I just undo the straps and drop the tank down, unhook the pig tail to the harness and change the pump. Or is it way more involved ?

since the car is stock, is there a FMS replacement

 

[ID89GT]

Its a piece of cake, if you get the walbro that comes with the install kit its really straight forward. Undo the straps, and you will probably have one bolt that holds the filler neck bracket to the tank as well. Undo that then drop the tank, moving it towards the driver side so the filler neck can come out. Then you have 2 lock rings on top, the one on the left is the fuel gauge sending unit, and the one on the right is the fuel pump, obviously with the fuel lines coming off it lol. You will want a brass punch with a hammer and just tap the lock ring around till it comes out. Pull the whole fuel pump assembly out then just swap the pump. Once you get it out and on a bench its pretty easy to figure out how the new one goes. Then just reverse the whole procedure to put it back in. Piece of cake..

 

[88LX5.Oh]

The Walbro kits come with instructions for changing the pump out. My 190 LPH fuel pump had it's own connector style so if you go this route, there may be some crimping involved. No biggie though, just need some wire strippers(not entirely necessary), wire cutters, and pliers. The kit comes with all the supplies you need, you just need to have the tools.

Also when removing the tank, open up your gas door and take the 3 bolts loose around the fill hole. It'll allow the filler neck some play room so you can more easily take the tank out and put back in. Also, check the gasket around where the fuller neck goes into the tank. A lot of times this gets cracked and can cause a leak or a strong gassy smell.
When putting the tank back in, you can (not necessary but I did this) lube up the filler neck with WD40 to make it easier to install. I actually used white lithium grease since I had no WD40 but it worked out perfect.

Pay very special attention to how the stock fuel pump strainer is on the pump. You have to put the new one on the new pump the same way because inside the tank is a special area just for the strainer to go into.

If you want to completely avoid the hassle of taking apart the fuel pump housing and switching the pump, you can get an entire Motorcraft assembly from O'reilly's. Just go to oreillyauto.com and type in your cars year make and model, search for fuel pumps, put in your zip code, and it'll show you the price. It's expensive as hell, though. But, changing the fuel pump yourself is an easy process. I just posted this so you know more options.

 

[S&B]

yeah sounds like I will be able to handle that no problem just have to remember to get that tank empty.

sounds like I should go with the walbro, this car is probably going to stay as is, if i ever have to get the engine rebuilt I will buy a stroker kit but leave the heads and everything else so it will never make over 300 to the wheels. Would a 190lph be okay or should I go with a bigger pump? I just want a quite one.

 

[Onefine88]

The 190 will be OK. But for the very little difference in price I recommend buying the 255lph for just in case and be done with it.

Ya never know what you might do later.

 

[Rick 91GT]

If you dont plan on mods like your old car, Id go with a 190lph create less heat and keep the fuel cooler. You need one let me know if I can help. Walbro GCA710-2 (has install kit) $95 shipped...

 

[88LX5.Oh]

According to one of Jrich's posts, a 190 will support up to like 500+ NA horsepower, so I went over board and so will S&B if he orders that one. I would just get a 155 LPH if I were you. And hell no to the 255. The fuel will be circulating from the tank, up to the engine, and then back to the tank so many times it'll get hot as hell.

And damn Rick! I need to start ordering from you. My pump (same exact Walbro) was like $110, or more, shipped from Summit.

Also S&B, my 190 in comparison with the stock one had a much deeper sort of growl to it. My stocker had a high pitch to it. But they're about the same in sound level, just a different note all together.

 

[S&B]

i went with the 190 thanks everyone. now I just have to motivate and change it before it motivates to death before I get there

 

[2000xp8]

Low on gas and a good rachet set it can be done in 20 minutes.. An impact gun don't hurt either. Buy a new filler neck grommet too, old ones are always rotted out.