Fuel Pump Install

If there is plenty of room to remove it with that hole cut into it, its fairly easy. Use a hammer and a BRASS punch to remove the retaining clip from around the fuel pump...USE BRASS because it doesnt spark....sparks are bad near the gastank. Once the reatainer clip is removed, pull out the ful pump assemby. Its easy from there on. disconnect the old one, which is being held in by a plastic casing, remove the fuel screen(looks like a tea bag), and install the new one. swtich the wires over from the old one to new one, put her back in. U may or may not need a new gasket for the reatainer ring. Its pretty easy. Anyone else?

it really is, ecspecially since u dont have to drop your tank, hopefully theres enough room to remove and install everything.

Mavrick said:

Got a deal on a 110lph fuel pump to replace my stock unit. The stock pump whines REALLY loud right now and i think it's on its last legs.

Does anyone have a how-to article on this? The previous owner cut a hole in the trunk, so i won't need to drop the tank. Does it just slide in? What about electrical, is this a plug and play type deal or will i have to splice wires?

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Take a picture of the cutout and its size and location fore & aft, right to left and post it so that the rest of us can benefit form someone else’s labor.

Be careful about the wire splices. I prefer to solder them and then cover the splices with heat shrink tubing. I hate to think about electrical sparks inside the gas tank from splices that overheat or short to ground.

5.0 and superford did an article on this in the may 2004 you can probably find it on the net or get the issue, after the tank is dropped it appears to be just plug and play. good luck

U shouldnt have to soder anything. U may have to crimp a wire or two.

stock is 80-90lph i believe i would have spent the extra money and got a 255lph and be done with it. 100 isn't really that big, I paid 70 bux on ebay for my 255lph wahlbro brand new.

bbk 255 with adjustable pressure reg has been a great combo for me....but when I redo everything I am going with aero fuel sytems

i would think that judging by the way that you say little you probably dont have a big problem. clean the rest from around the tank, once you get done with the install run a tank through and change the filter, should be right above the diff housing. mine is. small amounts of trash in fuel is not uncommon, that is why we have filters.
my opinion

dont use a screwdriver, if there happens to be the slightest spark, u can kiss your a$$ goodbye. Find a brass punch.

Mavrick said:

I got this pump for $50 canadian guys.. and i don't have a problem buying a 255lph in 5 years when im making enough power to need it.

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I mainly suggested this because swapping out the fuel pump isn't the easiest thing to do and i would rather do it once rather than multiple times. Also the way the fox body mustangs fuel system works is that its a retun style system any extra fuel is retuned to the tank so you can't have too big a fuel pump and it won't hurt your gas milage just based on pump size.

cut a hole in the trunk?! i should have done that, lol.

I just changed mine Wednesday evening and although it wasn't the most difficult job, it wasn't the easiest either. Since you don't have to drop the tank you won't have to deal with what I thought was the hardest part - pulling the filler neck out of the tank.

As far as connections go, it's pretty straight forward, although the duck-bill type fuel line (the return line on my '86) also gave me a little grief. On removing the locknut, you should use something non-conductive. I took a nut driver and taped the end and hammered on that. It's a good idea to vacuum around the locknut before, during and after removal to reduce the odds of getting dirt in the tank.

Removal the pump assembly takes a bit of work - you just have to twist it and shimmy it out the right way (and try to remember which way you twisted to make it easier to go in). None of the connections require solder so once you get the pump assembly out of the tank it's just a matter of swapping the parts. Oh, and make sure you put the strainer (new or old) on in the same 'radial' position as when you took it off. On my '86 there was a little metal tang on the bottom of the pump assembly which ensured it went on the right way.

I was going to go for a 190lph unit, but after speaking with the staff at steeda.ca (live on-line help) they recommended the 110lph unit because I don't have an adjustable pressure regulator. The higer volume units are also designed for higher pressure applications, and without a regulator he said there was a chance I could over pressurize the fuel rail.

You said you got the pump for $50 CDN - I'm curious to know where as I paid $108 CDN here in Winnipeg (and that was after calling around to about 12 different places).

Good luck with the replacement

Here's the how-to article for replacing the intank fuel pump.

Symptoms:
Car will not start although it cranks as normal. No sound of fuel pump from rear of car "key on -engine off". You can hear a small "click" near the passenger side when you turn key to "on". When you crank you get spark.

Tools:
Floor Jack
Jack stands
12" plywood or board
Siphon and bucket (if needed)
1/2" socket w/ (6 or 8")extension (3/8" drive)
5/16" socket w/extension (1/4" drive)
rust penetrating oil
Flat tip screwdriver
Rag
Bucket
Goggles
Hammer
brush or better yet compressed air can

Parts:
Fuel pump- I used @ 110lph Federal-Mogul that I bought at a speed shop for $80.00. The kit included the pump which is approximately 4" long and 1.25-1.5 " in diameter. It HAD two tabs on top marked positive(+) and negative(-) and an output "nipple". The kit also included a small length of hose, two clamps, and a screen FILTER.

Fuel Filter- I replaced mine while I was under there. (optional)

Time: It took myself and a friend about three hours without the benefit of doing it before or having these instructions. I could probably do it now in 1.5 hours.
Directions:

Disconnect battery

Siphon fuel if needed. I had about 1/3 tank of gas and did not need to siphon and the tank was not to unwieldy.

Jack up car from rear on center of axle housing (Pumpkin Ball). Follow normal jacking precautions.

Support car with two jack stands under the rear axle and near the tires. I had the rear wheels about 5" off the ground. Remove hydraulic floor jack (this is used to help lower the fuel tank).

At this point I removed the fuel filter. It is located in front of the tank centered between the rear wheels. Use flat tip screwdriver to loosen hose clamp that holds filter. Next pry on the white plastic (hairpin) clips that hold the fuel lines to the filter (one on each end). There may be some gas leakage when the lines are pulled, ESPECIALLY IF THE LINES ARE STILL PRESSURIZED. Use goggles, rag and bucket to minimize drippings. The clips come out perpendicular to the lines and there is a triangular tab to pry on. Don't break them unless you bought a new filter (it comes w/ two replacement clips). Pull hose off each end of filter.

While under car it is a good time to use some penetrating oil on the two 1/2" bolts that hold the tank brackets to the chassis. They can be difficult. They are to each side of the filter.

Using 5/16" socket w/extension remove 3 screws inside fuel fill door. I also removed 4 screws on the inside of the panel that hold a rubber cover to the backside of the fill door cavity. There is also a smaller size screw that attaches a bracket to the fill side of the tank. It has a loop that goes around the fill pipe.

This whole assembly needs to be loose to drop the tank. You should be able to pull on this assembly, out of the fill door area, and it should start to slide out of the tank. There is a rubber grommet around the fuel pipe at the tank. You won't be able to pull it all the way out until the tank drops a little.

Try loosening the tank bracket bolts now. If still tight try more penetrating oil. (DO NOT REMOVE THEM UNTIL YOU HAVE SUPPORTED THE TANK).

If the bolts are loose put floor jack under the tank center. Use a piece of wood to lift with to distribute the weight. Once the tank is supported you can remove the bracket bolts. I was able to swing the brackets vertical at the height I had lifted my car.

Disconnect: At the rear of the car at center there is an electrical connector that goes to the pump. Disconnect it.

There is a plastic loop at the front of the tank that the fuel lines run through. I cut this but I guess it could be pulled out of the chassis.

While one guy slowly lowers the tank the other can work the fill pipe the rest of the way out of the tank. The gas tank has to be emptied to below this level or it will run out. Always look for lines or electrical connections that might be binding. The tank may want to drop one side more than the other but it was manageable with two guys. We were able at this point to set the tank on the ground without stretching any lines.

The pump assembly goes in the tank on the right hand side (from back of car) on a high spot on the tank. Clean this area as well as possible to prevent dirt from getting into the tank upon removal. I wiped the area and used an air gun to blow dirt away (good idea!). My assembly was oriented with a red electrical plug towards the rear of the car and the two metal lines facing the front of the car. You can take off the electrical plug by using a screwdriver to pry on the catch clip between the plug and the metal lines. The clips on the metal lines are two different types. One is identical to the fuel filter clips (hairpin). The other has two tabs that need to be depressed. The clip comes out the end of the holder and stays around the metal line. You should be able to separate the flexible line from the metal lines.

The pump assembly is held in with a large locking ring. It has 4 tabs sticking up. You should be able to see the three bent over flaps that hold it on and the notches you have to rotate it to in order to remove it. I used some penetrating oil here also. Using a hammer and 3/8" extension tap on one of the tabs to rotate the ring counterclockwise. Do not use a screwdriver, it just bent the tab. Once the ring is off the pump assembly should be free. In my case I had to rotate the assembly 180 DEGREES to remove it. It has a "z" shape to it and takes some wiggling to remove.

At this point you should be all set. Install pump in assembly and reverse.