fuel pump kill switch in a 95

JimmyRGT

Founding Member
Sep 4, 2001
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Atlanta, GA (GA Tech)
Hey guys Im moving into an apartmen and want to install a fuel pump kill switch on my car. Iv read the posts about the pre 95 5.0's and i was wondering if our cars have the fuel pump relay under the drivers seat as well, and if so what color wire would i splice, etc. Also is there a certain type of switch i should get? Thanks for any help.
 
ok here's the link. It says convertible but it works for all models.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/41.shtml

About the part of the 2 similar wire colors. They are very similar but the fuel pump wire is a little bigger in size than the other one. I suggest you do not hook it up to the fuel pump inertia switch. Instead, pull the side plastic molding where you driver door is, and grab that big wiring harness. Take a look at the 2 different wire colors they re talking about on the site. Grab the right one and make your connection right over there and then it's gonna be hidden under the carpet. Leave enough wire lenght for you to go mount the switch wherever you want to. Just a little more trouble for the thieves to find.
 
so just a note, if anybody wants to try, or does try this... the correct wire is next to the drivers seat, not in front of it. This wire must take a detour right at the front left tip of the driver's seat...

which took me a little bit of time to figure out, since i was looking at the wire loom in front of the drivers seat at the sill plate and behind the kick panel

the wire is a dark green with yellow (kinda looks light lime green almost) and is thicker than the other wires 14-16 gauge i think.
 
donjohn said:
so just a note, if anybody wants to try, or does try this... the correct wire is next to the drivers seat, not in front of it. This wire must take a detour right at the front left tip of the driver's seat...

which took me a little bit of time to figure out, since i was looking at the wire loom in front of the drivers seat at the sill plate and behind the kick panel

the wire is a dark green with yellow (kinda looks light lime green almost) and is thicker than the other wires 14-16 gauge i think.
so you can tap the wire right from the driver's seat instead of having to do so in the trunk? that'd be a whole lot less of a pain in the ass!
 
Ram000 said:
so you can tap the wire right from the driver's seat instead of having to do so in the trunk? that'd be a whole lot less of a pain in the ass!

Basicly you dont want to splice near the fuel pump inertia switch. It would be easy to see if I'd be there to steal your car. Do it and HIDE IT ! If you splice it kinda on the side on the driver seat in the wiring harness, it would be much better and not that much harder. And completely hidden unless you start to remove all the plastic covers and such. From there I then ran some wires UNDER the carpet to my switch which is located somewhere on my passenger side area :D
 
so this is all you guys are saying the mod requires? just splitting the wire with a switch and hiding it somewhere?
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yes ram, that's what i did.

the guy in that article says to run a relay, but i'm not sure why you'd need to do that... i mean, a common switch just like that works fine... i installed mine yesterday and integrated it into my ash tray switch panel I made. now all i have to do is attatch ground and light it up.

it kinda scares me a little that if one of my connections breaks off that the car will die... like a starter kill might have been better... but o well
 
thanks for the answer, guys, that's really simple to do. for those that see this, though, it might be good to disconnect the negative battery terminal, i'd say, before doing this.

hmm, i'm thinking about the starter kill vs the fuel pump kill. would the starter kill really be better/safer?
 
VibrantRedGT said:
After 14 months of the car being down I forgot where my switch was. Couldn't understand why the fuel pump wouldn't turn on. Then finally it dawned on me. Found the switch, turned it on and the car fired.
Thats some funny ****.lol. Stuff like that happens to me all the time. i hide stuff then i forget were i hide them at
 
VibrantRedGT said:
After 14 months of the car being down I forgot where my switch was. Couldn't understand why the fuel pump wouldn't turn on. Then finally it dawned on me. Found the switch, turned it on and the car fired.

try like 15 minutes... i installed the switch then started the car when i was going to leave and i thought some of my wiring was bad... but i forgot to throw the switch... i did the same thing later that night.

:bang: i just have to get used to it


my car stays on for about 20-30 seconds or so but i can't press on the gas b/c nothing happens when you do.
 
Another way to do it is to run the cut wires through a SPDT relay. the feed side of the cut wires goes into the common terminal and the outlet (to the source) goes to the N.C. (NOT the N.O. Terminal!). Then you add a switch which closes to ground and goes to a relay-coil wire. The other coil wire gets key-on 12 volts.

This way, the original circuit defaults to working, and if the switch fails, the car runs (unless a terminal comes loose or the relay connection between the common and N.C. terminal fails). In other words, the relay is energized to make the car not run, vs needing to energize to allow the car to run.

I have to say that I am not a huge fan of said kill switches (though I have them) because if the switch fails (been there, done that) or a terminal comes loose, the car will stall and could lead to an accident.

Paul, that is the reason that killing the starter is safer IMHO (unless you stall the car in traffic, having it not start is not usually a hazard). But peeps can bypass a starter kill (starter interlock circuit) pretty easy compared to finding where the fuel or ignition kill switch is buried.

A really savvy guy would jump wires at the CCRM for a fuel cut-off.

My two cents.
 
HISSIN50 said:
Another way to do it is to run the cut wires through a SPDT relay. the feed side of the cut wires goes into the common terminal and the outlet (to the source) goes to the N.C. (NOT the N.O. Terminal!). Then you add a switch which closes to ground and goes to a relay-coil wire. The other coil wire gets key-on 12 volts.

This way, the original circuit defaults to working, and if the switch fails, the car runs (unless a terminal comes loose or the relay connection between the common and N.C. terminal fails). In other words, the relay is energized to make the car not run, vs needing to energize to allow the car to run.

I have to say that I am not a huge fan of said kill switches (though I have them) because if the switch fails (been there, done that) or a terminal comes loose, the car will stall and could lead to an accident.

Paul, that is the reason that killing the starter is safer IMHO (unless you stall the car in traffic, having it not start is not usually a hazard). But peeps can bypass a starter kill (starter interlock circuit) pretty easy compared to finding where the fuel or ignition kill switch is buried.

A really savvy guy would jump wires at the CCRM for a fuel cut-off.

My two cents.


You make a good point. So note to self, buy a GOOD SWITCH.....not some crap one from autozone.