Fuel Pump Priming
- Thread starter Revogen
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- Dec 19, 2010
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1. Put fuel in tank.
2. Turn key to on position, which turns pump on.
Repeat step two a few times if needed.
You missed the part where he has to pick up the back of the car and shake it 3 times....
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One more slightly related question; Once I have it all together and running I want to run the codes to see if any problems (I haven't had the car long and did not have a chance to do this before needing to repair the fuel system), Do I need to let the car idle for a while to reset the computer? Just idle or should I drive it also?
You must clear the codes anytime you replace any sensor.
How to clear codes.
Clear the computer codes by disconnecting the battery negative terminal and turn the headlights on. That clears the computer's memory of codes and the adaptive learning data it generates from sensors. Turn the headlights off and reconnect the all sensors including the MAF and anything else you may have disconnected while troubleshooting problems. Then reconnect the battery negative cable.. This clears all spurious codes that may have been generated while troubleshooting problems. This does not fix the code problems, it just gives you a clean slate to start recording what the computer sees happening.
Run the car for at least 30 minutes of driving and dump the codes again to assure that you have fixed the code problem or sensor problem
How to clear codes.
Clear the computer codes by disconnecting the battery negative terminal and turn the headlights on. That clears the computer's memory of codes and the adaptive learning data it generates from sensors. Turn the headlights off and reconnect the all sensors including the MAF and anything else you may have disconnected while troubleshooting problems. Then reconnect the battery negative cable.. This clears all spurious codes that may have been generated while troubleshooting problems. This does not fix the code problems, it just gives you a clean slate to start recording what the computer sees happening.
Run the car for at least 30 minutes of driving and dump the codes again to assure that you have fixed the code problem or sensor problem
- Mar 2, 2015
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Drive it. The car has to warm up before everything starts talking. Driving it will allow any driveability issues to be stored. I've seen where it takes as much as 40 miles for certain codes to set....depending on what the issues are.
I'm sure @jrichker would know more. He's the mustang electrical genius on here.
I'm sure @jrichker would know more. He's the mustang electrical genius on here.
So, the cars seems to be running ok, nothing leaking from the fuel system. I've only been able to put about 20 miles on it though (work, weather, kids...) so I haven't run codes yet, hopefully this weekend. I have noticed an insanely strong smell that seems to be a combination of exhaust fumes and raw gasoline. The exhaust fumes seem more likely a leak than just normal exhaust re-entering the car and my guess is said leak is more towards the front end as I was driving with windows down and was still getting a face full. What concerns me more is the accompanying strong smell of raw gas (Especially under acceleration). Is this normal for these cars? As I said, other than a short test drive prior to buying this thing I've put very few miles on it and never owned one before. I could understand the raw gas smell if it were a carburetor car but not an FI car. Along with the new tank, fuel pump and sending unit, I also put in a new vapor valve and grommet. As I understand it, this vapor line runs all the way to the engine bay and dumps into a charcoal canister? Is it possible that this thing is no longer functioning and somehow releasing fumes? Any thoughts or ideas are welcome, Thanx.
The raw gas is probably because the charcoal canister is either cracked or not plumbed correctly.
If you disconnected the carbon canister and failed to properly cap the vacuum line coming from under the upper intake manifold, you will have problems. You will also have problems if the remaining hose coming from under the upper intake manifold or caps for the vacuum line are sucking air.
Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?
The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.
The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.
Purge valve solenoid:
The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:
Lack of properly working catalytic converters will also cause some of the same problems.
If you disconnected the carbon canister and failed to properly cap the vacuum line coming from under the upper intake manifold, you will have problems. You will also have problems if the remaining hose coming from under the upper intake manifold or caps for the vacuum line are sucking air.
Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?
The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.
The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.
Purge valve solenoid:
The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:
Lack of properly working catalytic converters will also cause some of the same problems.
I didn't have time last night to put the car on jack-stands and climb underneath however, a cursory look at the charcoal canister setup revealed nothing. Everything appears to be connected as per the above schematic, the canister itself is likely the original but no cracks or breaks. I do not appear to have cats in the exhaust though there are O2 sensors mounted in the pipes forward of the H pipe. Does the charcoal canister "wear out"? over time and need replacing? If the solenoid were malfunctioning, would that allow for heavy fumes? (This doesn't seem likely to me...). I do think there is an exhaust leak and possibly where the exhaust manifold mates to the motor or where it meets the H pipe but the raw gas smell is (I think) more than just exhaust, yet nothing appears to be leaking (Fluid wise).
Is it worth replacing the canister and/or solenoid as an attempted remedy? I'd like to be more sure this was the problem before throwing money at it...
Thank you.
Is it worth replacing the canister and/or solenoid as an attempted remedy? I'd like to be more sure this was the problem before throwing money at it...
Thank you.
Disconnect the solenoid valve from the intake manifold. Ground the wire opposite the red wire on the solenoid valve connector. Turn the ignition to Run and see if you can blow air through the solenoid and the canister. If you can, then the solenoid and canister are working OK.
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