Fuel Pump Priming

Revogen said:

So, putting a new fuel tank, fuel pump, sending unit and a few lines in my car (87 GT), wondering what is proper procedure for priming the pump for the first start up?
Thanks in advance...

Click to expand...

1. Put fuel in tank.

2. Turn key to on position, which turns pump on.

Repeat step two a few times if needed.

Boosted92LX said:

1. Put fuel in tank.

2. Turn key to on position, which turns pump on.

Repeat step two a few times if needed.

Click to expand...

You missed the part where he has to pick up the back of the car and shake it 3 times....

You must clear the codes anytime you replace any sensor.

How to clear codes.
Clear the computer codes by disconnecting the battery negative terminal and turn the headlights on. That clears the computer's memory of codes and the adaptive learning data it generates from sensors. Turn the headlights off and reconnect the all sensors including the MAF and anything else you may have disconnected while troubleshooting problems. Then reconnect the battery negative cable.. This clears all spurious codes that may have been generated while troubleshooting problems. This does not fix the code problems, it just gives you a clean slate to start recording what the computer sees happening.

Run the car for at least 30 minutes of driving and dump the codes again to assure that you have fixed the code problem or sensor problem

Drive it. The car has to warm up before everything starts talking. Driving it will allow any driveability issues to be stored. I've seen where it takes as much as 40 miles for certain codes to set....depending on what the issues are.

I'm sure @jrichker would know more. He's the mustang electrical genius on here.

The raw gas is probably because the charcoal canister is either cracked or not plumbed correctly.

If you disconnected the carbon canister and failed to properly cap the vacuum line coming from under the upper intake manifold, you will have problems. You will also have problems if the remaining hose coming from under the upper intake manifold or caps for the vacuum line are sucking air.

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.



It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:



The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:




Lack of properly working catalytic converters will also cause some of the same problems.

Disconnect the solenoid valve from the intake manifold. Ground the wire opposite the red wire on the solenoid valve connector. Turn the ignition to Run and see if you can blow air through the solenoid and the canister. If you can, then the solenoid and canister are working OK.