Fuel Pump Relay Location?

its in the box with alot of wires running to it that is on the front side of the passenger strut tower

Check under the drivers seat. I think there is a relay there.

This, I've had a lot of expierence with. This box is called the IRCM/CCRM(integrated relay control module/contant control relay module). It houses 3 main relays (fan, fuel pump, and eec power). These relays are soldered onto the PCB inside the box, so in order to get to them, you must drill out the rivets. I would recommend going to Radioshack and getting a 30 amp automotive relay. They're 6 bucks opposed to the $130 or so for the box itself. NOTE: The boxes can only be bought used from a vendor such as eBay or new from the dealer. This is why I fixed mine on my own.

Before I tell you how to do it, may I ask if the Check Engine Light comes on when the key is in the ON position?

If so, then the EEC relay is working fine and your problem is just the pump relay.
If not, then it may be your EEC relay and/or the pump relay, but most likely the EEC relay.

If the PCB marks the pinout for the relay (or the relay has it printed on it) you can just jumper across the two switching terminals with a short piece of wire to see if the relay is the problem or not. If the pump comes on when you jumper the relay (with the key in the ignition and in the run position) then you know the relay is probably the issue*. It would suck to desolder the relay only to find out it's perfectly fine and the problem lies elsewhere.

* There could be a problem with the circuit that feeds the inductor side of the relay which causes it to not turn on...this can be troubleshot with a voltmeter probing across hot side of the inductor side of the relay to ground.

If you unplug the fuel pump and then check the voltage at its connector then that would eliminate the possibility of the fuel pump causing the problem.

If you're getting voltage at the fuel pump then the fuel pump relay must be working...though it could have a poor internal connection that is causing the voltage drop. An easy way to check that is to take the voltage across the two switching terminals of the relay when the relay is supposedly on. If there's a significant voltage difference between those two points, the relay is providing a poor connection....the switching terminals should have next to no voltage drop across them when the relay is on. Since you're getting 6.75 volts at the fuel pump and the battery should be at around 12v, the voltage drop would have to be about 5.25 volts....that is significant and would probably cause the relay to get fairly hot.

I would check to make sure that your ground is good from the fuel pump also. With the car off and the fuel pump unplugged, take an ohm reading between the chassis and the black wire on the fuel pump connector. It shouldn't read more than a few ohms. If it shows more than that, you may have a bad ground wire.

You might also want to check to see if the relay module is getting the voltage it needs. The red wire, I believe, should be 5v (I'm guessing 5v because it's connected to lots of other sensors and most sensors run off of a 5v reference). The yellow wire is "hot at all times" and should be the same as the battery voltage.

That's all the ideas I've got at the moment.

Oh, and the pump relay is the 2nd small one. Its in the center of the first samll one and the 3rd big one.