How do you remove the rubber line at the back of the car that goes to the tank from the factory hard line on the return line? DO you have to use the AC revover tools that are also used to remove the spring lock connectors on the fuel rail?
There are two type of plastic
locks. There is the horseshoe plastic
that is released by pulling out the shoe
before removing line (available in box
of 5 at NAPA. And the plastic round ring
with two locking tabs that is removed
by using two small screwdrivers to push
out the hocking tabs before pulling on the
line. Usually on the return line to the tank.
Available at Advance auto in a assortment pack.
I am asking questions now in anticipation of changing the lines over to braided stainless steel. The factory hard lines have started to rust (pretty bad imo) from condensation caused during early spring warm up. That is the only way it could be happening, due to the fact the car literaly never see's rain or snow/salt. Some other unpainted parts like the fuel filter bracket have started to do the same. The car is garage kept all year round and only sees about 3000 miles a year. I believe the concrete garage floor is holding the moisture and this creates a sweating effect when the air temp starts to get warm in the springs. The exhaust being centered in this location does not help either.
So anyway, the clip that I am talking about is in fact the one on the return line with the two locking tabs. It seems as though using a screw driver is not the "correct" way to remove those. I am sure it works, (and may be the only solution), but is there a tool made to remove these?
Thanks. I have the one's that Daggar shows as his favorites, but just didn't think they would work. I will try them.
I now have a new question:
If I were to buy a straight section of stainless hard line, how do I make the two rings on the end of the hard line where it connects to the clip I am asking to remove on the return line?