Engine Fuel smell from oil

[AbhorrentSpecies]

This is going to be long winded so be prepared lol. I just bought a 89 GT. The interior and exterior were very well maintained but the engine, tranny and brakes have seen better days. It's incredibly dirty under the hood. Like a quarter inch of mud under the intake and on a lot of the accessories like the water pump and power steering. The car was starting up with no problem and running okay. Spark plugs are clean-ish and she still had plenty of throttle response when pressing the gas. So far, I've noticed two fuel injectors leaking and they look corroded, the gas tank wasn't attached correctly and I got four codes from the computer. 33, 41, 91 and 96. It was also overheating a bit even though it has a 3 compartment radiator and 80 watt electric fans. The thermostat was opening late at around 205 even though it was 195. I bought a 160 degree thermostat and plan to do an overhaul of the cooling system. Someone had also bypassed the EGR cooling lines because the spouts are so corroded you can't connect radiator houses to them. So I'll need to buy a new EGR spacer and probably just go ahead and get a throttle body. As I was doing some work today I also noticed a fuel smell on my dip stick. I'm hoping it's just because the bad injectors and maybe a fuel pressure regulator even though my fuel pressure was at 33. Everything on the motor is stock other than the radiator and electric fans. I also have noticed the oil pressure reads too high and the oil is over full on the dipstick. Please help with any advice you can give. I'm hoping it's not bad piston rings and the entire motor needs a rebuild. Fingers crossed. Thanks again.

 

[General karthief]

I'm gonna be a little long winded here too so sit down, you didn't mention miles but I figure it's a bunch.
here is what my plan would be: get a pen and paper
Get it up on jack stands, and not from Harbor Freight, pull the wheels, note the condition of the brakes, that includes the brake lines and hoses, shoes and pads.
Pull the spark plugs and do a compression test, if it's good then move on:
Now for the engine, pull the upper intake and tape off the intake holes and clean the crap off the engine. Note the vacuum lines, you will be replacing most if not all the rubber lines. Change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor along with the injectors. Likely the radiator, water pump, thermostat and most if not all the hoses. Replace the pcv valve and the screen under it. A new fan belt (do they still call them that?) may be needed to.
Drop the fuel tank and replace the pump after inspecting the inside of the tank to be sure it's clean. Replace any rubber lines that are suspect. Replace the filler neck gasket and the seal where the neck passes through the fender panel.
Look to see if the valve cover gaskets need changing, the metal fuel lines under the car are not rusted,
Check the wiring on top of the engine for breaks or any hacks by the previous owne(s).
Don't worry about replacing the throttle body or hooking up the coolant lines to the egr spacer right now, don't buy stuff like under drive pulleys or cold air kits.
Add a set of tires if needed and you should have a driveable car now so you can access the trans, clutch and rear for possible problems.
Remember, this car is 30 years old,

 

[AbhorrentSpecies]

I'm gonna be a little long winded here too so sit down, you didn't mention miles but I figure it's a bunch.
here is what my plan would be: get a pen and paper
Get it up on jack stands, and not from Harbor Freight, pull the wheels, note the condition of the brakes, that includes the brake lines and hoses, shoes and pads.
Pull the spark plugs and do a compression test, if it's good then move on:
Now for the engine, pull the upper intake and tape off the intake holes and clean the crap off the engine. Note the vacuum lines, you will be replacing most if not all the rubber lines. Change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor along with the injectors. Likely the radiator, water pump, thermostat and most if not all the hoses. Replace the pcv valve and the screen under it. A new fan belt (do they still call them that?) may be needed to.
Drop the fuel tank and replace the pump after inspecting the inside of the tank to be sure it's clean. Replace any rubber lines that are suspect. Replace the filler neck gasket and the seal where the neck passes through the fender panel.
Look to see if the valve cover gaskets need changing, the metal fuel lines under the car are not rusted,
Check the wiring on top of the engine for breaks or any hacks by the previous owne(s).
Don't worry about replacing the throttle body or hooking up the coolant lines to the egr spacer right now, don't buy stuff like under drive pulleys or cold air kits.
Add a set of tires if needed and you should have a driveable car now so you can access the trans, clutch and rear for possible problems.
Remember, this car is 30 years old,

Thank you! A lot was on my list but I appreciate that. What would you use for cleaning? I don't want to damage any wires or anything.

 

[AbhorrentSpecies]

Thank you! A lot was on my list but I appreciate that. What would you use for cleaning? I don't want to damage any wires or anything.

Also, it's really not many miles 127,000. It was just sitting in a dirt lot for a long time. The inside and outside are immaculate and already been completely restored. The suspension, tires and wheels are all new. It's the engine bay and fuel system that are in crap shape as well as the speed sensor is out and the O2 sensors look like someone did a crap job of splicing them in.

 

[General karthief]

The guys at the shop use simple green (I think), it's biodegradable, most automotive degreasers work fine.
Need some pics of this pony or it's phoney.

 

[AbhorrentSpecies]

She's looking okay.