Fuel tank dropping problem


I think I have a problem here.
Founding Member
Jul 27, 2001
Canton, MI
AHHHH!! An hour and a half of f'n around in single digit weather (BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR) I have gotten as far as I can on my own and need help now.

I am dropping the fuel tank to switch fuel pumps, and can't get it dropped all the way. First off, DOES it come down all the way? Second, if so, HOW?

I have the tank all set but the filler neck area is giving me trouble. I took out the 3 bolts inside the filler area and the 4 bolts going around it, 2 of which held the gas tank flap on. When I took those last 7 little bolts out, I was able to drop the tank a couple more inches but the black plastic in the gas tank filler area seems to screw me up as it won't fit through the space I have to work with.

The car is a 92, btw, if they differ.

Anyone? I'm done for tonight but the rest of the week is on its way...
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Dudu spray the rubber boot the filler tube slides into with wd40 and the tank will wiggle away from it. Put all the bolts on the body back. The tank will not fall the whole way down till the wires are taken off top of tank as well as fuel lines. You can then rock the tank and pull it off the filler tube dont forget tank ground on tube.
Dont give up man, The tank comes down all the way. You dont really need to take the filler neck loose but it helps. You are that far. the actual tube that the fuel runs down into the tank comes out. On the passenger side of the tank you know where the tube enters the tank? sure you do, well pull the tank straight toward the driver side fender well and the filler tube comes out. there is just a gasket retaining it into the tank, this will stay in the tank. You will probably spill some fuel thats fine. Once you get it down, spin the ring with hammer and chisel or screwdriver and pull the pump assembly out. Replace the pump. The easiest way to reinstall is with a floor jack, sit the tank on a floor jack and reinsert the filler tube. Then jack it up, connect the wiring connector and put the bolts back in your strap. Then turn the key 3-4 times without starting the car to prime the pump. If you have any questions give me a PM.
You may have already removed the tank last night... if so, disregard this. In the future though, NEVER, EVER, hammer on a gas tank with a chisel or screwdriver! All it takes is one spark and that tank will turn into a nice fire bomb! ( could be welcome where you live, hehe ) I just replaced mine and when removing the lock rings I used a piece of wood to do the tapping. Worked perfect. Good luck :nice:
lol, that's an easy way to do it!

I would've used a rubber mallet or a wood block, I'll take no chances with sparks! :notnice:

I haven't gotten it out yet but I'm biding my time. I spent enough time freezing myself solid last night, I'll go back tonight or tomorrow depending what else I have to do. I have nothin' but time to get it done, as long as it's done by...March :D
MAN, you guys are not very comfortable in your mechanic skills are you. I have changed about a dozen pumps, and can turn the ring with just about anything. With your hand if you had to. Come on! Do you really think this kid is gonna run out to Sears and buy a Brass drift to turn that ring? Think of what hes working with. For all you textbook mechanics, haynes manuals instructions can be broken. And by the way, I work on the flight line on Fort Campbell, A buddy of mine showed me you can throw a cigarette in a tanker and nothing happens, but it did scare the sh** our of me!
Uhhh, one thing, make sure to not be under the tank when your trying to get it loose, heard of many stories of guys having a full tank 'o gas on top of 'em in about a half second, other than that, when in doubt get a bigger hammer ;)

Good luck!
Haha, I'm not that stupid. Got less than 1/8 tank and have a wooden block on a jack to hold it up while I work my magic. But since it's just about below zero out there, I saved my balls the trouble and stayed in tonight :p
Got all the time in the world, no rush. As long as i know what to do I am all set :)
I figured, but allways good to state the obvious, it's something i'd probably do....

I can't imagine working in below zero weather, when we hit high 20's here i'm hurtin' too cold! my hands get all numb and i can't do jack.... oh well, doesn't happen too often.

Good luck!
Ok, got it dropped now. I finally got use to the cold enough to go back out and play.

So anyway, now I have a question. Which one of these humps in the picture is the fuel pump?


I took the harness connector off the area in the front BUT it does not match the connector on the fuel pump I have. I originally thought this was the fuel pump in there, but now since they don't match I dunno what's what.

Most of the aftermarket kits use a different connector, it should have come with the pump along with a rubber hose, some hose clamps etc...

You just splice it to the factory wiring that is connected to the stock pump.

Your in the right spot, just tap the retaining ring off to expose the pump, be careful not to tear the stock rubber gasket ring that is under it.
Yep I have the wires and hoses, etc.

Do I cut the stock harness off or just bypass it?

And how do I get the retainer pin out? What part should I be hitting and which way should i force it? I don't want to break anything by hitting it the wrong way.
Ok, the connectors on the pump don't match cause first off you gotta pull it out. See the fuel pump is kinda bolted up to this bracket which is part of the exposed part you see on top of the tank. The fuel pump sits in this baffle way down in the bottom of the tank. You gotta remove the fuel lines(2) one has a reg duck-bill clip and you just pull of with needlenose pliers and pull the line out, make sure to mark these so you don't get them mixed up. The other requires a special disconnect tool, but you can just break it off since you'll be using new ones. Have some rags ready for a lil' fuel to come out. Just look closely at the top of it, the retaining ring with the little slot thingies stickin out, you gotta hit it counterclockwise watch out not to bang the plug connector or the metal lines. It should loosen up, just hit it till it releases, then you can pull the ring out and pull the fuel pump/strainer assembly out, might need to wiggle it out some and it'll come out. Have patience. Once you got the f.p. assembly out, pull the rubber o-ring off, you should have a new one with the new pump that just drops in place of the old one. There'll be 4 screws that hold the bracket together, remove them and unplug the connectors to the pump and disconnect the rubber hose to the pump and pull the pump out. Put the new unit back in with the supplied hardware and splice the wires in and seal them up good. When you get the pump hooked up in the bracket, put the new filter on the pump, just sit the pump squarely on to your work bench and press down onto the filter till it's fully seated. Now you go back and install it into the tank, it can be tricky but lookinside the tank in the baffle area and notice which way it faces, this is which way the filter will line up. Get the assemblyin there and start "screwin" it in till it sits in the tank properly. Once it's seated get the metal retaining ring back on there and just as you tapped it out you gotta tap it back in this time clockwise until it's fullly tapped in. Connect the lines with the new clips. I forget which one was which but the one clip is circular on one of the lines you gotta popit in the fuel line and then it snaps in place onto the metal tube from the pump assemb. The other one you just slip it on the tube and pop the duckbill clip on afterwards. Plug the harness that goes to the tank and raise the tank up and install it back on. Good luck.