Gas and oil in exhaust... Halp!

93 notch 5 speed 67k. Put heads cam and intake on. Wouldnt crank. Gas in the oil. Its coming thru exhaust. Epic fail. Halp
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Follow up for future readers...

1993 5.0 Coupe w/ 67,000 miles

Decided to do a Heads/Cam/Intake install. Tore the top end of the motor down. Installed B cam with cam gear pointing at 6:00 and crank pointing at 12:00. Put GT40X heads on. New lifters, rods and 1.6 rocker arms. Added a BBK SSI intake and 24lb fuel injectors. Added an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

Problems:
a) The car won't start and has a gas/oil mix leaking from the front and back of the h-pipe and gas is smelled on the dip stick and thus is in the oil pan.
b) The fuel guage is reading pressure, but immediately after (crank or no crank) the pressure falls off.
c) Water temp (autometer electric) is reading 150 deg and 180 upon attempted crank

Observations:
Gas is OBVIOUSLY bypassing the piston rings. Oil or an oily residue is mixed in with it. The gas leak CANNOT BE FOUND and again is also in the oil pan

Possible Causes:

Upon getting advice from several friends and a ASC Certified master I have come up with 2 possible explanations. Either-

1) The cam and the crank are not timed together. The only way to screw this up would be to not line the cam at 6:00 and the crank at 12:00, or break the new timing chain (double roller), break the cam or break the crank...

Reasons in favor of this explanation include the facts that there is oil in the exhaust which occur only if the head gasket was blown. The only way we can think of to blow a head gasket upon first start up is to misalign the crank and cam so that when the piston is forced down in one cylinder, the others are forced down with it due to the misalignment. The front 4 cylinders except the #1 do not appear to be doing anything as the rocker arms are even with each other and sitting up (valves closed).


2) The oil is actually the residue on the top of the pistons mixed with a flood of gas caused by incorrect timing. Fuel is bypassing the rings.

Reasons in favor of this explanation include the facts that the distributor was installed with the rotor facing the literal number 1 piston at the front passenger side of the motor instead of the #1 mark on the inside of the cap. This would throw the timing way off and you'd actually be many gears out of place.








***Note

I will try tommorrow to get the #1 piston at TDC so that I can put the rotor button facing the #1 mark on the bottom of the cap. This is what I thought was right in the first place and jrichker' "Cranks OK but no start" checklist confirms this. I will disconnect the inertia switch behind the brake light to ensure that no more fuel is sprayed while I try to find TDC by either using a clothes hanger to feel for the top of the piston thru the #1 spark plug hole. The air against the finger trick will not work if the valve is bent or stuck open.

I will put the rotor in the roughly 1:00 position that it came out of and reconnect everything. I will then check that the rocker arms are all moving in sequence. After that I will again put the motor at TDC and try to crank again after reconnecting the fuel, etc. The fuel gauge may be bad. the temp guage may have been damaged or tightened too tight.











Will follow up tomorrow.

Purty sure I'm 180 out now

Thanks guys- Check out the "Cam Timing" question I posted. I think I may have this thing figured out. A little bit of work will tell.





*crosses fingers*

For future readers, this thread is continued in greater depth at http://forums.stangnet.com/785764-cam-timing-question.html