Hey there I've been trying to get my 88 lx I just bought back on the road...and it wasn't running so hott so he basically sold it to me for pennies..but the P.O. wired in a maf sensor and didn't have the right computer in anyway I thought it was a bunch of other stuff including injectors(19) And distributior and ect tps is coil ignition switch and he also wired the fuel pump to stay on continuously and now i noticed I have like a gallon of gas in the oil and I haven't tried to crank her that much...so this one is a puzzle...help!! Thanks in advance
Gas In The Oil Pan?
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Dang phone...but when I turn the key the injectors are spraying(stuck open) on the back two cylinders driver side..im waiting fora a9l to come in for the maf he pinned an noticed he spliced into wire 57.. I dont know if that matters but..what could keep those stuck open...if the injectors wire grounded itself would it just stay open?
Lol I guess I'll help my self...quick question about same situation...when I turn the key the fuel pump stays on...i have 190 I'm the tank now...and it seems to me that it's Bullying the injector (Or the weakest one)...and just spraying as soon as I turn the key ( 8 just out the box injectors)...its like it never stops priming...but has anyone had similar symptoms?
Try unplugging the injectors and see if they still spray.
First I would fix any wiring issues before attempting to run the engine at all.
First I would fix any wiring issues before attempting to run the engine at all.
The injectors are solenoids they only open when power is applied to them, the fuel pump does not supply pressure the fuel pressure regulator does.
I don't think there is anyway you can get enough pressure to force the injector open without causing damage to the system. (Not to mention the fact that a 190lph pump can't supply that much pressure)
Where did you get the injectors from? If they leak fuel by when unplugged then they are no good.
What is the fuel pressure at the rail?
Www.veryuseful.com for wiring diagrams and basic information regarding the foxbody mustang.
Not sure about the fuel pump relay
I don't think there is anyway you can get enough pressure to force the injector open without causing damage to the system. (Not to mention the fact that a 190lph pump can't supply that much pressure)
Where did you get the injectors from? If they leak fuel by when unplugged then they are no good.
What is the fuel pressure at the rail?
Www.veryuseful.com for wiring diagrams and basic information regarding the foxbody mustang.
Not sure about the fuel pump relay
I have 40 psi at the rail...so for that injector to be stuck on it has to have a constant power...i got them off ebay...boush 19's...i pulled the one that was leaking bad and could blow thru it...so as bad as I don't want to admit it but it looks like a got a couple bad injectors...or something giving that one injector power?
No not at all.
Now to clarify you have the harness disconnected from the injectors and they still pass fuel?
If this is a yes the injectors are bad.
To test for a short that will cause a constant power to the injector simply use a voltmeter or test light on the plug, if you have power all the time across the plug there is a short to ground.
(The injectors are given 12v all the time, the ECU pulls them to ground to turn them on)
Of course this is with the key on.
Now to clarify you have the harness disconnected from the injectors and they still pass fuel?
If this is a yes the injectors are bad.
To test for a short that will cause a constant power to the injector simply use a voltmeter or test light on the plug, if you have power all the time across the plug there is a short to ground.
(The injectors are given 12v all the time, the ECU pulls them to ground to turn them on)
Of course this is with the key on.
Alright well I cornered it...and it seemed to be the timing is a little off..and after more inspection my balancer seems to been spun a little...and the car wants more and more timing and now the TFI is hitting the thermostat houseing...now if I wanted to move it over one tooth..which way do I turn the rotor itself?...i want to say counter clockwise but I'm not 100percent..
Uhh.. if the balancer seems to be spun then replace it. Better safe than sorry, unless you like rebuilding engines.
Way too much timing. Anything above 14 base requires 91 octane.
Look at the balancer closely check the rubber.
Look at the balancer closely check the rubber.
do the #1 top dead center check thing to see how far your balancer is off, it's a good idea to replace it anyway, age and heat cycles take their toll.
Or replacing them because the crank broke and took the block with it. Ask me how I know...
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