Gauge Sweep.

It's either the battery or the computer dying...and the battery is a lot cheaper and more likely to be the issue. Just like when you reset the computer (by disconnecting the battery for a couple mins), the gauges will peg and hold for a second, then reset to zero.
 
Yep, the more driving needed code is because the EEC is loosing its memory, and needs to relearn everything. Something is wrong...it needs about 30 mins to wipe the memory out...but it MAY be the battery, I just am not too sure it is since if it didnt have enough power to keep the memory alive, then I dont think it would start the car. Its not like the computer is draining a TON of power...batters can sit months in a computer controlled car and still be perfectly fine. But battery should be first since its cheaper.
 
Check the battery terminals and connections before you go replacing the battery.

Take both the neg and pos off the battery, clean the posts, clean the terminals, put them back on, tighten down, then give it a couple days and see if it helps.

The way I'd prefer to test the battery would be get a multimeter ($24 at Walmart,) and check the DC volts when the car is off. Write that number down, then in the morning before you start it check it again, it should be nearly the same or a little less. If it's noticably less (12.6v first reading, 11.6v second) then I'd definately consider replacing the battery.