I have one and love it. It was easy to install, a little massaging of the trans tunnel for clearance, I had a shorter driveshaft made rather than cut the original. Some very easy wiring, and a speedo cable connection was all it took. I did have one small problem, shortly after the install the speedo stopped working. They supply a sender that is inserted in the transmission where the speedo cable used to connect and a coupling for the rest of the cable. This forced the cable to be at a sharp angle that caused it to fail. G/V replaced the part at no charge, I purchased a 90 degree speedo drive adapter, this is the way to go, no problems since.
I tend to leave in turned on all the time, when I want the extra launch at a stop light a simple push of the floor mounted switch turns it off. It is nice on the highway, if I turn it off, the tach jumps about a 1000 rpms instantly, power and acceleration is right there.
I've never calculated mileage, but my 3.55 rear is effectively a 2.77 when it is working. I looked into an AOD conversion and found in my case it would have cost much more. I would need a Lentech like built trans that costs around 2 grand, add in a converter, flexplate, spacer, linkage, and all of the other associated parts needed. Not to mention the TriY jet coated headers would need to be replaced, the resulting exhaust work, the G/V unit was less expensive.
I did it in my garage while the car sat on jackstands. A trans jack was the only tool I needed that I didn't already own. This was a very easy installation, I highly recommend it.
I tend to leave in turned on all the time, when I want the extra launch at a stop light a simple push of the floor mounted switch turns it off. It is nice on the highway, if I turn it off, the tach jumps about a 1000 rpms instantly, power and acceleration is right there.
I've never calculated mileage, but my 3.55 rear is effectively a 2.77 when it is working. I looked into an AOD conversion and found in my case it would have cost much more. I would need a Lentech like built trans that costs around 2 grand, add in a converter, flexplate, spacer, linkage, and all of the other associated parts needed. Not to mention the TriY jet coated headers would need to be replaced, the resulting exhaust work, the G/V unit was less expensive.
I did it in my garage while the car sat on jackstands. A trans jack was the only tool I needed that I didn't already own. This was a very easy installation, I highly recommend it.
There is a depression in the tunnel directly behind the shifter, this needed to be less deep. A medium sized ball peen was more than adequate for the job. To find out how much I had to hammer I installed the trans and the front section of the unit pictured below, it couples takes the place of the tail shaft section. I put some talcum powder on the OD unit and tried to push it into place. Of course it hit the floor, once pulled down, I knew where to start massaging the floor. It took a few times before it slid into place, but it was not really hard to do. You can see the short section of speedo cable that failed, in one of the bags is a tubular piece of aluminum, it is the coupler for the original speedo cable to mate with the short section visible in the photo. I installed a F/River tilt column and installed the dimmer switch turn signal lever option, the old floor mounted dimmer is now used for engaging the G/V unit. A rocker switch with status lights is included in the kit, I installed the rocker switch under the dash in such a way that it cannot be seen. Reach your hand to the far left edge of the bottom of the dash and it sits there out of sight. I took a two cell AA size plastic battery box from Radio Shack and made a housing for the status lights. I placed this box on top of the defroster vent, since it is black an so small it is hardly visible in this location.
They did not offer one when I bought mine, it wouldn't be that hard to make. I can see the possibility of splitting each gear with a large heavy vehicle that does not have the rapid acceleration that a Mustang typically has. I think one would be hard pressed to do that in a Mustang. Next time you're at a traffic light try and count how long your trans stays in first gear on a rapid start, once you near the shift point you'll have to turn the OD on, when you again near the shift point you'll have to turn it off, and then repeat this thru the other two gears. Lots of really fast finger flicking required for that.
As I said, I typically leave the unit on, the car starts off in normal first gear without the OD, once the rpms build up enough inside the unit it turns on, when the trans shifts into second it is still in OD and so on for third gear. In this fashion it works like a four speed automatic.
As I said, I typically leave the unit on, the car starts off in normal first gear without the OD, once the rpms build up enough inside the unit it turns on, when the trans shifts into second it is still in OD and so on for third gear. In this fashion it works like a four speed automatic.
According to what I've read these units are built to handle 1200 horse power, more than two or possibly even three of our cars would deliver. They do recommend frequent fluid changes and specify a GM synthetic gear lube. I'm getting very close to the first fluid change for mine. I searched thru RV owner websites and found nothing but praise, I didn't read a single owner who said they had a unit that had failed. Go for it.
i would love to have one of these on my 64 1/2 restomod. I think id have to lose the Total control products X-frame i have though. or at the least notch it. oh and also probably rework the exhaust
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