Just looking to come off the fuel rail (bbk) using a billet regular and gauge and then use some AN lines down to the bottom of the engine. That's all...nothing crazy. Some folks mount things all over and connect in different spots. I just wanted to see. And I will be between 576-640 crank hp...so getting close to your suggested number.My question would be why? Is this a show car? Make over 550rwhp? Fuel system parts are really expensive and and if you don't actually need it I wouldn't blow money on it. If you go all the way to the tank, it's going to cost 2 grand.
You can buy adapters that connect to the factory hard lines (the spot that needs the removal tool on the passenger side by the header), but that won't be all the way out of the engine bay. Any further and you might as well go all in. Still going to cost $500+ with good rails and regulator. If you go cheap, don't be surprised when it leaks.
You can buy adapters that connect to the factory hard lines (the spot that needs the removal tool on the passenger side by the header), but that won't be all the way out of the engine bay. Any further and you might as well go all in. Still going to cost $500+ with good rails and regulator. If you go cheap, don't be surprised when it leaks.
Much . I just did mine all with vibrant red stripe with the blackIMO buy this line as well its way easier than the silver stuff.
I went BBK high flow aluminum rails, Kirban regulator, and BBK gauge (Purchased already). Now I guess some would say this is "cheap" because it isn't top of the line. Hopefully, I will be fine.
I was looking at the Russell's 1986-1993 Mustang stainless steel -6 AN fuel line kit is a great upgrade for stock fuel hoses from LMR. Which I think gets me far enough but just curious what others are rocking. I could ditch the Russell lines at $85 and buy a 12-foot roll or something like that from JEGS with ends for like $110. That doesn't solve how I would run the gauge on the BBK set up with the aforementioned Russell lines.
Going to instead try the one-inch intake heat spacer and see how that clears. I think it will work. (Versus the 3/8 one)Do you happen to have a Trickflow intake? If you do - Are you aware of the clearance issues?
Going to instead try the one-inch intake heat spacer and see how that clears. I think it will work. (Versus the 3/8 one)
So do you suggest the 3/8 over the one inch? I should have room to use the one inch under the hood but if you say 3/8 works. I will go with that.I've had one issue with the 3/8's spacer. I use a BBK fuel rail+BBK fuel regulator and the regulator's vaccum line port juuuuust blocks the intake from being installed with no issues. I had to loosen the rail and pull it back to install the intake (I did not completely take it off). Otherwise the 3/8 spacer was perfect. Certainly saved my fuel injectors from being torn up by the upper intake. Also let's me see under it!
Edit - I too run AN-6 and AN-8 lines to my fuel rails first starting from the lines just coming into the engine bay. I trust the fully metal lines from Ford significantly more then braided lines being run under a car.
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