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getting subs and amp, will stock alternator support it?

  • Thread starter Thread starter astronut1885
  • Start date Start date Feb 17, 2004

astronut1885

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Jan 31, 2002
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Feb 17, 2004
#1
  • Feb 17, 2004
  • #1
Hey guys. In a few weeks I am going to be buying a 3 subwoofer box with 3 10" MTX subs (1500 watt max total power) and a 1400 watt amplifier. Will the stock alternator have enough power for this, or do I need to do a 3G upgrade? I'd rather not do it if it can be avoided. Let me know.
Thanks.
 

jrichker

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Feb 17, 2004
#2
  • Feb 17, 2004
  • #2
Plan on the 3G upgrade... The stock alt will only put out 65 amps at 14 volts. That's 910 watts split between the engine, lights, A/C and other electrical items.

Here's websites with pictures...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/03/paperformance/index2.shtml
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

For the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
 

FiveOhhStang

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Feb 17, 2004
#3
  • Feb 17, 2004
  • #3
Hah, I tired the same thing, it WONT support it. You will need a 3g upgrade, that what im going to do very soon to get some boom in my vroom.
-Nick
 

astronut1885

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Feb 17, 2004
#4
  • Feb 17, 2004
  • #4
Ok. Looks like I'm going 3G. I'll call my mechanic and see if he can snag me one cheap from the boneyard. I think he'd told me 50.00 for one when I asked about it.
 

squeeeg

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Feb 17, 2004
#5
  • Feb 17, 2004
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My alternator wouldn't even power a 200 watt amp very well. So i doubt it will handle a 1500w. You can get bigger alts just look in MM&FF or 5.0 there are about 3 places advertising them.
 
Q

QCStang

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Mar 28, 2002
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Aylmer, Quebec, Canada
Feb 17, 2004
#6
  • Feb 17, 2004
  • #6
Yup, I can see it now. Cruising around town in the summer with the headlights on. Stop at the traffic light, turn on stereo. Stall...
 
8

87gtconv

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Feb 17, 2004
#7
  • Feb 17, 2004
  • #7
It might not stall but everything will surely dim badly!
 

jonnyk

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Feb 17, 2004
#8
  • Feb 17, 2004
  • #8
What kind of amp is it? 1500w max and 1500w are a huge difference. Power supply type also plays a huge impact. I ran 1100W RMS off of my 2G, but I'm most certain I was experiencing a huge voltage drop. Never run it hard when the alternator is at idle..you will only kill the thing!
 

bigsparky

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Feb 17, 2004
#9
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  • #9
How come on the corral's tech articles it doesn't say anything about running the fuse-link wire???
 

87gtconvt

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Feb 18, 2004
#10
  • Feb 18, 2004
  • #10
I believe that my amp is 1500watts and i got the stock alternator hooked up fine. I also have a 1.5 faret cap so that helps a lot. My headlights dont dim at all either.
 

astronut1885

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Feb 18, 2004
#11
  • Feb 18, 2004
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I have U/D pullies, too, so I have to go 3g. My lights and heater dim when I am at idle.
 

johnt785

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Jan 22, 2004
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Wichita, Kansas
Feb 18, 2004
#12
  • Feb 18, 2004
  • #12
I have a 1200 watt amp with 2 12'' subs in my hatchback. I wasn't running that amp up to its full potential... just probably around 900 amps. The stock alternator for my '90 GT put out 65 amps. I learned the hard way that the alternator wasn't going to work and it shorted out one night while i was driving. No big deal. I went to the local Auto Zone and bought myself a 80 amp alt thinking it would do. My car still dims with that 80 amp alternator, I recommmend getting a high power alt.
 

bmorrisj

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Buena Park, CA
Feb 18, 2004
#13
  • Feb 18, 2004
  • #13
if the amp box say ****watts max in big letters (max is the key word) its a piece of crap... count the total fuse amps and multiply it by 14.4, eg my jbl 1200.1 has three 40amp fuses (beefy) thats 120ampsX14.4vdc = 1728wattsx1@2ohms or 1ohm (for a period before it blows fuses) my amp puts out a good 1300+wrms @ 2ohms and 1ohm(paper says 1200wrms)... i can get a good sound at low power level and low current draw because its a class-D (no such thing as digital amps, maybe usamps and their sub) and has comparatively way less current draw than a mosfet or high current amp...but class-D is only good for bass and subsonic...



and the only thing a cap does is immediatly give current on demand which the alternator (that is powering everything else) cant do, the cap still adds another current draw to the alt when its charging....but a hi amp alternator and a cap is good...
 

astronut1885

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What???
 
D

dub976

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Jul 29, 2003
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Feb 18, 2004
#15
  • Feb 18, 2004
  • #15
I'm having charging issues with my stock alt. is their a alt. from another ford that is stronger and will fit?

if not what's a dependable alt. to upgraded to? I have a Alpine V12 amp that's just been sitting waiting to be put in. (still dims w/cap.)
 

squeeeg

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#16
  • Feb 18, 2004
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87gtconv said:
It might not stall but everything will surely dim badly!
Click to expand...
My headights dim anyway when i sit at a stoplight. Even worse when i have the heat on. I looked at them earlier for like $199 you can get a 130amp(80idle 160max)replacement alternator at http://www.paperformance.com
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
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Northern KY
Feb 18, 2004
#17
  • Feb 18, 2004
  • #17
I've put more than what you're putting in a 'stang before with a fully stock ignition and alternator, with no light dimming or anything. On the other hand, if you've got an MSD or anything else that's gonna draw power, you'll need the 3G.

I've got a friend with 2 JL 12s that i believe are at least if not more than 1000 watts each, and a 1000 watt JL amp to go with'em, and aside from his spoiler loosening on occasion, he has no problems. His car is otherwise bone stock though.
 

astronut1885

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Jan 31, 2002
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Feb 18, 2004
#18
  • Feb 18, 2004
  • #18
I've got a set of underdrive pullies, that's gonna have a big effect.
 

bigsparky

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May 14, 2003
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Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Feb 19, 2004
#19
  • Feb 19, 2004
  • #19
bigsparky said:
How come on the corral's tech articles it doesn't say anything about running the fuse-link wire???
Click to expand...


I hate to quote myself.. but can someone answer this?
 
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