Going to Atempt to change clutch tomorrow

Adam95GT · Nov 10, 2006

I already have clutch, TOB, Pilot bearing, jack stands, 2 ramps, and some hand tools... what else will i need i printed out 2 write ups... what about the plastic thing that is used i dont have one... i think it keeps the spyder gears in place or something... ive got a friend comming over to help... found a place to resurface fly wheels as well any more help on what tools sized ect will be great...

4Jenna · Nov 10, 2006

You'll need the plastic "thingy"

Alignment tool

lol

urban96 · Nov 10, 2006

yeah its a cluch alignment tool. it keeps the clutch disk centerd while you bolt the pressure plate up

suggested tools from my expierence:

a good breaker bar
a few misc extensions (i used about 1.5ft of extensions to get to the top starter bolt)
swivels
open end wrench to remove the D/S

a crowbar/pry bar to pry trans/bell apart and bell/block

thread sealer for the flywheel bolts
and a tq wrench to make sure everything is within spec

Adam95GT · Nov 10, 2006

im not sure if ill be able to create enough room (one write up said they were able to sit indian style under their car....) my jack and stands only go up about 18'' im not sure if that will be enough... i guess ill place them right under the frame... I did go buy a clutch alighment tool... $1.99 lol but how do you remove the pilot bearing ( i was told just use a hammer...) grand father has a torque wrench so im good there... and has a 1/2 socket set... i have a nice 3/8 set... he has wrenches.... um..... extentions i might have to buy.... im not sure if i have them long enough to reach the header bolts.... i guess ill do that tonight... swivel head thing needed???? the more info the better has anyone done the swap on normal jack stands...???

1slow95 · Nov 10, 2006

You need a 12-point 12 or 10mm wrench to remove the ds. You need a good cheater pipe for those.

You'll probably lose most of the fluid from the trans. It's easier to fill it through the shifter opening. You'll need 2 1/2 quarts of atf if I remember correctly. Just leave the fill plug open and stop when fluid starts running out there. If you want a new shifter, now is the time to change it.

Make sure you disconnect the battery because you will need to remove the starter and there's a live power wire right there.

Should take you less than 2 hours to get everything apart, depending on how rusty the bolts are, and about the same time to get it back together.

1slow95 · Nov 10, 2006

For the pilot bearing, go to auto zone or advance and rent the tool for that. Trust me, it will make your life so much easier. It took me 6+ hours just to remove my pilot bearing without the tool and I ended up using the air chisel to get it out.

I've changed my clutch using just jack stands. It's kind of rough, but it's definitely possible to do.

HISSIN50 · Nov 10, 2006

Adam95GT said:
how do you remove the pilot bearing ( i was told just use a hammer...)

As Mike and others said, that would be a slide hammer.

You have a repair manual, right? You'll want it for torque specs and pictures.

Did you get a RMS? Threadlock? You might have wanted to get a new bearing shaft retainer.

The write-ups should cover all the ancillary items and goops/tools you'll need.

Good luck.

final5-0 · Nov 10, 2006

I quickly skimmed your other thread and this one as well.

I'm sure you got a lot of good ideas as peeps here are pretty good at helping

If this has already been suggested ... just flush my post.

Don't hurt your self or go to a lotta trouble when it comes to removing the drive shaft.

Ford uses loctite on the nuts and it is very hard to get them off.

Some have skinned knuckles and broken wrenches on those little buggers.

A little heat from one of those cheapy propane torches will make em slide off with ease.

Good luck and make sure the car is safe on the jack stands
because
You're gonna be under there a good while

Hope it goes ...... all good for you

Grady

urban96 · Nov 10, 2006

i got my pilot bearing tool from harbor frieght (under 20) and it worked like a charm

first i tried to do the soap trick and ended up with a big soapy mess

final5-0 · Nov 10, 2006

urban96 said:
i got my pilot bearing tool from harbor frieght (under 20) and it worked like a charm

first i tried to do the soap trick and ended up with a big soapy mess

Seems to me

The Soap and Axle Grease trick would be more effective on

Pilot Bushings

Grady

urban96 · Nov 10, 2006

final5-0 said:
Seems to me

The Soap and Axle Grease trick would be more effective on

Pilot Bushings

Grady

haha so true...

i had my friend help me lift the tremec into place and he seen all the soap on the ground and goes "umm whats all this soap for? trying to make the car smell good or something?"

the 3jaw puller i bought worked perfect and took 2 seconds to pop the beating out

Ronman · Nov 10, 2006

i 've had my trans and related components out more times than i can count and all were on either jack stands or ramps, which i prefer. make sure you set the emergency brake and chalk the wheels since putting it in gear wont help. i didnt have to remove any of my exhaust though, and i have long tubes which really get in the way. i would drain the fluid from the trans first to keep it off your work space(hard ground) dont forget your speedo and reverse light plugs.

FlyBy763 · Nov 10, 2006

Ronman said:
i 've had my trans and related components out more times than i can count and all were on either jack stands or ramps, which i prefer. make sure you set the emergency brake and chalk the wheels since putting it in gear wont help. i didnt have to remove any of my exhaust though, and i have long tubes which really get in the way. i would drain the fluid from the trans first to keep it off your work space(hard ground) dont forget your speedo and reverse light plugs.

What longtubes do you have? Im really surious to know if I can change mine without taking the headers off...

Ronman · Nov 10, 2006

they are heddman i think.

SeventyMach1 · Nov 11, 2006

Adam95GT said:
im not sure if i have them long enough to reach the header bolts

You have stock headers right? You definitely don't need to remove them for this.

Be sure to mark the driveshaft with a marker or chalk. You don't want to accidentally bolt it up in the wrong orientation. Some have done this and have had severe vibration problems by doing so.

HISSIN50 · Nov 11, 2006

Ya know, I think 5.0 Stang and SF's this month has a write up (with lots of pics) on a clutch R/R, just in case it helps.

Good luck.

The Green GT · Nov 11, 2006

HISSIN50 said:
Ya know, I think 5.0 Stang and SF's this month has a write up (with lots of pics) on a clutch R/R, just in case it helps.

Good luck.

They did. Go pick your self up the January issue of 5.0 Mustangs and Super Fords.

Then get mad becasue when they even do have an SN95 (rarely) its a 4.6 the majority of the time.

The Green GT · Nov 11, 2006

And you might need something more than regular jack stands to get that tranny out. Especially sicne you lowered your car.

If push comes to shove and you dont think you will be able to get it up high enough, park it over a ditch and work under it there.

I have to do it like that sometimes.

chief44 · Nov 11, 2006

i always separate the transmission from the bellhousing. this will make it easier to remove everything

Adam95GT · Nov 11, 2006

Well so far so good figured id update you guys... having a few little problems... found the big one LOL.... trans is out with bell housing atached... there is nothing left of the TOB... i pulled down the trans and the balls from the bearing fell out on me... some were not even balls any more... some were eggs LOL clutch plate was kinda flimsy.... almost to the rivits... i bought a clutch alignment tool.... borrowed a Slide hammer... but it just broke the pilot bearing apart a bit... still cant get it out... next i noticed my rear main seal had a small leak nothing big but i found a few drops of oil... should i change it???? how hard is it to do???? alright anyhelp will be great... im actually gonna lat it sit and took the fly wheel to get resurfaced.... im gonna put it all back to gether on friday.... anyone know an easier way to get the top bell housing bolts off???? they were a total bitch.... i had to sit on the motor with the fricking ditsy up my ass..... and finaly got them loose and pulled them out by hand.... UGH... ratchet wrench maybe??? might have to buy a set.... they were the only bolts that gave me any trouble DS were like cake...

thanks for the motivation to do this :SNSign:

Going to Atempt to change clutch tomorrow

Adam95GT

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Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

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