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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Going to Atempt to change clutch tomorrow

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adam95GT
  • Start date Start date Nov 10, 2006
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final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
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DFW Texas
Nov 11, 2006
#21
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #21
Since this stuff is kinda ............. All New To You

I just gotta ask Adam

Are You Havin any Fun Yet

Grady
 

Dagz

New Member
Dec 2, 2005
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Nov 11, 2006
#22
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #22
Try putting some grease in behind the pilot bearing with a gease gun until it is full. Then take your new shinny Clutch allignment tool and hit it in the hole with a hammer, and the pilot bearing will pop out. Might have to reapeat this a few times.

Might as well change the rear main it is the only chance you will have until you do it next time. You don't want the oil to leak on the cluch disk and comtaminate it.

As for the top bell housing bolts use a couple long extentions and swivels with a breaker bar to get the top ones.

Good luck hope this helps.
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
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Syracuse, NY
Nov 11, 2006
#23
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #23
tip for changing the rear main seal, put some sheetrock screws in it and use a claw hammer to pull them out

on the top bellhousing bolts. with the trans removed from the bell and the engine sorta tilted back you can get straight at them with an extension
 

1slow95

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
1,797
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ohio
Nov 11, 2006
#24
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #24
The easiest way to get to the top bolts of the bellhousing is to remove the trans first, then use some long extensions and maybe a swivel.

A slide hammer is not the best choice to remove the pilot bearing. Like I said, go to Advance and rent the pilot bearing puller.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3497&mfrcode=PBI&mfrpartnumber=648619
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Nov 11, 2006
#25
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #25
final5-0 said:
Since this stuff is kinda ............. All New To You

I just gotta ask Adam

Are You Havin any Fun Yet

Grady
Click to expand...

YES its great... ive always been able to tell whats wrong... just not able to fix it! now i can lol!...
 

Adam95GT

New Member
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Nov 11, 2006
#26
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #26
Low-5.0 said:
The easiest way to get to the top bolts of the bellhousing is to remove the trans first, then use some long extensions and maybe a swivel.

A slide hammer is not the best choice to remove the pilot bearing. Like I said, go to Advance and rent the pilot bearing puller.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3497&mfrcode=PBI&mfrpartnumber=648619
Click to expand...

i was gonna rent something like that at autozone... but it connected to the slide hammer.... lol
 

Adam95GT

New Member
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Nov 11, 2006
#27
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #27
also i do have to drain the oil when i do the rear main right???


also the pilot bearing is still reamining in the crank area correct... ive just been beating it to all hell.... the slide hammer is a snapon and its the size of my arm... and has a little claw hook on it... but i hit it so hard it just rips the bearing apart and pops out.... ill have pics up tomorrow... g/f was taking pictures along with my grandmom.... my grandfather was basically my second man for balancing the trans on the jack and what not....

flywheel should be resurfaced by monday... this project will be finished by next weekend... i drained the trans fluid out because i didnt want to coat the floor of my grandfathers shed with ATF... i also bought a suction gun to fill it back up.... the fluid was a little dirty... my friend said it was bad i took it out because something about new fluid eating away my trans or something like that... will ano ole dextron III mercron work??? like walmart brand.... or should i use the valvoline high milage ATF.... i have till next weekend to figure this all out....i bought the rear main seal as well... i guess i have to be careful not to scrape the end of the crank up or it will leak anyway right???
 

Ronman

Founding Member
Feb 10, 2001
50
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Huntington, WV
Nov 11, 2006
#28
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #28
you dont wont old trans fluid back in. the fluid does a few jobs/ 1)lubricates all moving parts. 2)helps to cool all moving parts from friction. 3)aides in removing all dirt and or any metal shavings, small ones not chunks, thats a problem. old fluid in contaminated and basically broken down and unable to do those jobs. any new fluid should be more than enough. only thing about that wal mart brand is it only meets the requirements set by car makers, and a name brand usually exceeds or doubles them. its worth the few extra bucks for some pennzoil or valvoline or whatever you like.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Nov 11, 2006
#29
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #29
Considering you only need 3 quarts of Mercon, I'd go with Ron on this. Get something decent. It was good that you drained it.
 

donkey_punch

New Member
Jan 16, 2004
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northern****ingjersey
Nov 11, 2006
#30
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #30
Adam95GT said:
my friend said it was bad i took it out because something about new fluid eating away my trans or something like that...
Click to expand...


do yourself a favor, don't ever listen to your friend. it's clear he is talking out of his ass. does it even make any sense?
 

Adam95GT

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Aug 14, 2006
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Nov 12, 2006
#31
  • Nov 12, 2006
  • #31
donkey_punch said:
do yourself a favor, don't ever listen to your friend. it's clear he is talking out of his ass. does it even make any sense?
Click to expand...

kinda figured didnt make sense to me... and acording to hissin the guy at autozone was lieing as well he said 5.5 quarts of mercron3
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
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Syracuse, NY
Nov 12, 2006
#32
  • Nov 12, 2006
  • #32
yup you only need like 2.5 or 2.7 quarts. but since they dont sell 1/2 quarts just get 3
 

Adam95GT

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Nov 12, 2006
#33
  • Nov 12, 2006
  • #33
nice thanks...
 

droptopford 5 0

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Mar 31, 2005
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Nov 12, 2006
#34
  • Nov 12, 2006
  • #34
maybe it was just my bad experience, but dont fill the trans until u have it back in the car with the d/s fully attached. just take the shifter off from inside if u havnt already and fill it from there unless u use a suction gun from underneath which would work as well. wehn i removed the aod it didnt leak at all, then i installed the t-5 ans filled it up and it was niagra falls of ATF also, as others have said, attaching the bell first will allow you to just use a long extension to get to the upper bell bolts. then align everything up and slide the trans input shaft in and bolt that up. one thing i thought was hilarious that you posted...
Adam95GT said:
i had to sit on the motor with the fricking ditsy up my ass.....
Click to expand...
i think we can all relate on how much workin on the car can suck sometimes
 

Adam95GT

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Nov 12, 2006
#35
  • Nov 12, 2006
  • #35
LOL true... bought a suction gun... have to change the atf in my g/f's probe trany so i figured with all the money im saving a $7 suction gun wouldnt be a bad buy... i rember when i didnt have one and we swappe the trany in my probe... i used a gatorade squrit bottle... took forever and i was covered in gear oil.....LOL thinking about picking up a short throw while its out... cheapo ebay ones any good or should i just buy a pro 5.0 or steeda or B&M??? Hell im moving along fast for not having the stang for that long...might as well add more mods to the list...
 

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.
10 Year Member
Jan 8, 2006
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Louisiana
Nov 12, 2006
#36
  • Nov 12, 2006
  • #36
Adam95GT said:
LOL true... bought a suction gun... have to change the atf in my g/f's probe trany so i figured with all the money im saving a $7 suction gun wouldnt be a bad buy... i rember when i didnt have one and we swappe the trany in my probe... i used a gatorade squrit bottle... took forever and i was covered in gear oil.....LOL thinking about picking up a short throw while its out... cheapo ebay ones any good or should i just buy a pro 5.0 or steeda or B&M???
Click to expand...
well anything will prolly work better than that monstrosity that was in there. lol

But Ive heard that some people actually like the eBay ones.
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Nov 12, 2006
#37
  • Nov 12, 2006
  • #37
i had n ebay one in the probe... didnt fit... but an nhour with a dremmel will show it who is boss lol!
 

NotQuik

Founding Member
Oct 21, 2000
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Central Florida
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Nov 12, 2006
#38
  • Nov 12, 2006
  • #38
fun stuff man, just finished getting mine back together last night over what i'm assuming to be the same thing with how you described your to beraing, mine was in 5 pieces and some bearings were melted together ect. Good luck with the rest.....if you can put a shifter in there pro 5.0 or steeda....i've heard great things about both. personally i have a pro5.0 and like it.
 

SeventyMach1

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep
Mar 30, 2005
1,940
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North Carolina
www.xtrememustangs.com
Nov 13, 2006
#39
  • Nov 13, 2006
  • #39
Last time, I put the fluid in my T-5 through the shifter hole as well. Much easier.


However .... in the past, I have used a top off of a bottle of Lucas (or something similar). The cone shaped tops allow you insert them into the transmission and then squeeze the new fluid in.
 

Dagz

New Member
Dec 2, 2005
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Nov 13, 2006
#40
  • Nov 13, 2006
  • #40
also the pilot bearing is still reamining in the crank area correct... ive just been beating it to all hell.... the slide hammer is a snapon and its the size of my arm... and has a little claw hook on it... but i hit it so hard it just rips the bearing apart and pops out....

Try the grease trick if you are still haveing problems. Works everytime never knew there was an actual tool to do it the grease tricks is easy and never fails.
Dagz
 
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