Going to install ARFs, 1.7 RRs, intakes, this weekend.. suggestions/hints??

Going to install AFRs, 1.7 RRs, intakes, this weekend.. suggestions/hints??

Gonna install all the parts I been collecting this coming weekend... [gonna skip the 12s on the stock stuff thing - year is going by way too fast] I've never installed heads on a 5.0 before but am more than mechanically able [built a 3.8T GN engine b4]. I just got some questions..

Going on the car:
AFR 165s, ARP bolts, Crane Energizer 1.7 RRs pedestal, Edelbrock Performer upper and lower, 24 lbers<--Pro - Maf 75mm.

Not going into the shortblock at all. I'm kinda curious what I can get out of it on motor with the stock cam and some 1.7s anyways. Low 12s is the goal on motor..

Questions I have:
1: should I port match the Edelbrock lower to the AFR heads? Or jus leave it? There is quite a size diff in ports, just by looking...
2: are my Mac 1 5/8" header ports/openings going to be large enough for the exhaust ports on the AFR 165s?
3: thread sealant for the head bolts. Every head bolt gets sealer? It says to use 30 wt oil on the ARP bolts to torque em.. can't see how sealer will stick with oil on the threads? I'm assuming is just the bolts that go into the water passages that get the sealer??? Which bolts are they?
4: gonna use the stock valve covers with double thick cover gaskets, and I have a metal type gasket i'm going to use as a shim in the middle, as well as a stock replacement cork on the top. Should clear the rockers without having to gut the baffles no?
6: removing the old E7 heads. Any specific order I should undo the headbolts so as not to warp them? They are going on a friends 86 after a bit of a clean up.

Wonder if there is a "change your heads" webpage somewhere with the full lowdown??? I haveta get ready for work in a few but wanted to post this tonight so that by the weekend I have everything covered.

Any hints or suggestions to make this go a little easier???

Thanks.. you guys are always a big help when it comes to this stuff. :nice:
 
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Couple comments/suggestions/answers:

1. If you have the time and the tools to do the port match I'd say why not. But If you going to rush it I'd pass on it and use the time for the head swap.
2. Your headers should be fine.
3. ARP thread sealer on the bottom bolts at a minimum. You can use it on all of them if you want, but I used ARP moly lube on the top last time.
4. not sure on the valve covers, but I'd be weary of oil leaking out.
5. Don't think there's an order for removing the bolts.

Don't know of a web site off hand.

Removing your headers completely will make it much easier to get the head off and onto the block.

Make sure all of your gasket surfaces are clean.
If you haven't bought head bolts yet get ARP studs.

And finally CHECK YOUR VALVE CLEARANCES. Taking the extra 15 minutes to snug down the head and rotate the crank by hand with rockers on one cylinder can save you big bucks and a lot of time if you bend a valve. Silly putty worked great and it's a cheap way to save you valves.

-Craig