I'm really tired of this big block running like crap so its off to the dyno finally for tuning. This guy is stupid expensive, and thats what you get when its the only dyno in 50 miles. So I'll finally have some power numbers and hopefully itll be tuned to run well, get better mileage, no runon, and no fires through the carb. I've had to take initial down to 8* to stop the carb fires. I'm starting to wonder if this motor is higher comp than I originally figured. Its a 466 with D0VE heads with smog era pistons. I'm hoping for 300 at the wheels which isnt asking for much. Mind you I built it for streetability so its not outrageous, and I'm running through manifolds. Desktop dyno says the logs are costing me 60 horses. But I'm happy with the 'git right now. I know headers would give me more but I'm not dropping $450 on headers. Wish me luck, and hope the motor doesnt blow, and hope its something simple to explain the misfiring.
Going to the dyno tomorrow
- Thread starter SmockDoiley
- Start date
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
Dark Knight
Founding Member
I'm kinda dissapointed, but on the other hand I have factory exhaust manifolds which is costing me around 60 horses. The distributor I got from used on Ebay had it maxed at 15* so with my 10* initial I was sitting at 25* which is way too low. The shop didnt have any springs or anything so we bumped initial to 18* and finished with 33*. I was also running lean off idle so we swapped from 64s to 70s which was about right on with our first guess.
So I pulled 264 rwhp and 342 ft/lbs. I think I have my valves a little too loose, and like I said, it needs headers. With 264 at the wheels and a 15% drivetrain loss, that puts power at 312 at the crank. So add 60 and you get 372. Subtract 15% and you get 316 at the wheels which is a lot better. I also need to get some new stops in the distributor so the advance can run out farther to like 38-40*. At least it runs way better, and the dyno pulled an extra 18 horses. It feels like a 12 second car so I cant complain.
So I pulled 264 rwhp and 342 ft/lbs. I think I have my valves a little too loose, and like I said, it needs headers. With 264 at the wheels and a 15% drivetrain loss, that puts power at 312 at the crank. So add 60 and you get 372. Subtract 15% and you get 316 at the wheels which is a lot better. I also need to get some new stops in the distributor so the advance can run out farther to like 38-40*. At least it runs way better, and the dyno pulled an extra 18 horses. It feels like a 12 second car so I cant complain.
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
Was this a dynojet or a mustang dyno? If its a mustang dyno they are 20% less at the wheels than a dyno jet due to the programing factoring in other things.
As for headers adding 60 hp I really find that hard to belive. Maybe 20 hp.
As for headers adding 60 hp I really find that hard to belive. Maybe 20 hp.
ninety15.0
New Member
- Mar 10, 2004
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5.0Droptop said:
I agree...60 hp just from headers sounds a little outrageous. What do you figure the Comp Ratio is?
795.0pacecar
lover of pudgy polygamists
I dont think 60 is very reasonable. You may see a 20-30hp gain. So when you get everything worked out, bring it back to the dyno and either prove us wrong or never mention it again lol.
Well, for starters you all own small blocks and you dont have the experience to question my judgement.
And secondly, I consistenly prove you wrong every time so I really dont have anything to prove to any of you.
So until you start swapping from old logs to new headers on a built big block, dont tell me what is or isnt reasonable. If I truly didnt feel it would gain 60 horses, I wouldnt go spend $450 on the headers.
Not trying to sound like a jerk, but I'm sick of this no mentally around this site. I've done so many things that people said wasnt possible, that I dont even listen anymore. Everybody said you cant put new rims on old style rotors, and I did. Everybody said a 460 isnt streetable, and it is. Everybody said a 5-speed behind a 460 isnt feasible, and well I'm driven one right now. Everybody said you cant fit a 460 under a stock hood, and I did it. I've done the small blocks, strokers, superchargers, blowthrough setups, swaps, and big blocks. So give me a little credit. I'm not some ricer claiming 30 horses from his cold air intake.
And secondly, I consistenly prove you wrong every time so I really dont have anything to prove to any of you.
So until you start swapping from old logs to new headers on a built big block, dont tell me what is or isnt reasonable. If I truly didnt feel it would gain 60 horses, I wouldnt go spend $450 on the headers.
Not trying to sound like a jerk, but I'm sick of this no mentally around this site. I've done so many things that people said wasnt possible, that I dont even listen anymore. Everybody said you cant put new rims on old style rotors, and I did. Everybody said a 460 isnt streetable, and it is. Everybody said a 5-speed behind a 460 isnt feasible, and well I'm driven one right now. Everybody said you cant fit a 460 under a stock hood, and I did it. I've done the small blocks, strokers, superchargers, blowthrough setups, swaps, and big blocks. So give me a little credit. I'm not some ricer claiming 30 horses from his cold air intake.
fidstang
New Member
You will see some really nice HP gains with better headers. Also, I would think about a custom cam if you haven't already got one. A streetable 460 can easily put down 400hp and 500ft lbs. to the wheels. Check outSmockDoiley said:
http://www.camshaftinnovations.com/
Jay is the best at performance cam and engine combos
He's got the prof to back it up. Even he will tell you, STOP racing dyno's, their all different and the best dyno numbers don't equal the fastest car. He'll set you up nice and it will be fast and streetable.
Thanks for the advice. People seem to equate stock small block numbers to built big blocks. I probably will stick with this cam because of the price. I was a little dissapointed with these numbers, but I know the headers will make a huge difference. The heads are factory D0VE's except some exhaust porting, and I dont think the comp ratio is above 9to1. I dont expect this thing to be insane because I didnt build it that way. I'll save up for the headers and check the difference that makes.
Grover, I live in Illinois now, but if I was there I'd get it dynoed at JBA in San Diego where they dynoed the blowthrough setup and my 69 Javelin.
Grover, I live in Illinois now, but if I was there I'd get it dynoed at JBA in San Diego where they dynoed the blowthrough setup and my 69 Javelin.
ExplodingGopher
New Member
Hi smock.... Glad to see that thing together and running
I think you chose the wrong cam for your setup, my setup is somewhat similar to yours. I have similar heads, more compression, better matching cam, and headers.
I know you made compromises with those darn mainfolds, but who makes headers for a big block fox with a manual....nobody.... I probably could make a set because i have access to the right tools at work.
But between the cam and manifolds, i think your leaving a lot on the table, about 100 hp worth, maybe more. That 230/230 .530/.530 110LSA comp cam is not giving you enough duration, especially on the exhaust, and lift....you need more...... about 10:1 compression would help, mine is at 10.4:1
I have 234/244 .552/.578 on 112LSA, on 1968 heads with just port work and roller rockers. Now i haven't been to a dyno yet, but the engine builders and people who have ridden in my car believe it is a little over 500 hp at the crank based on the build sheet and test rides
Hope you get it sorted out soon. Thanks for the inspiration to build my big block, its been together for 2 years now and NOBODY has anything like it around here
I think you chose the wrong cam for your setup, my setup is somewhat similar to yours. I have similar heads, more compression, better matching cam, and headers.
I know you made compromises with those darn mainfolds, but who makes headers for a big block fox with a manual....nobody.... I probably could make a set because i have access to the right tools at work.
But between the cam and manifolds, i think your leaving a lot on the table, about 100 hp worth, maybe more. That 230/230 .530/.530 110LSA comp cam is not giving you enough duration, especially on the exhaust, and lift....you need more...... about 10:1 compression would help, mine is at 10.4:1
I have 234/244 .552/.578 on 112LSA, on 1968 heads with just port work and roller rockers. Now i haven't been to a dyno yet, but the engine builders and people who have ridden in my car believe it is a little over 500 hp at the crank based on the build sheet and test rides
Hope you get it sorted out soon. Thanks for the inspiration to build my big block, its been together for 2 years now and NOBODY has anything like it around here
795.0pacecar
lover of pudgy polygamists
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
ExplodingGopher
New Member
I realize the 460 will make more torque but 316rwhp from a 460 is a bit weak, although I do realize the build was meant to be streatable. There are plenty of NA 302's putting down similar hp numbers with basic H/C/I combos.
I'm sure you know this, but what was the reason for running a 460 if you only want 316rwhp. That seems like a lot of work for basically what you can get out of a small block. I'm not flaming you or anything, I'm just curious why you chose to go with a big block yet keep it fairly low on power.
I'm sure you know this, but what was the reason for running a 460 if you only want 316rwhp. That seems like a lot of work for basically what you can get out of a small block. I'm not flaming you or anything, I'm just curious why you chose to go with a big block yet keep it fairly low on power.
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