Yeah, I decided to just go with an interstate battery. Anyway, what I'm really looking for now is the size of the ring terminals that connect the ground from the battery to the motor, and the positive to the solenoid. Are they 1/4" 3/8" or what?
Yeah, I decided to just go with an interstate battery. Anyway, what I'm really looking for now is the size of the ring terminals that connect the ground from the battery to the motor, and the positive to the solenoid. Are they 1/4" 3/8" or what?The factory cables are fine performance wise. Now if they are frayed or corroded, I would change them to factory replacement cables. The gauge of the factory cables is more than adequate. As far as the battery, it has nothing to do with the alternator. I had Optima batteries back in like 1992, before they were even sold for cars. I like the Optimas, and the modern tech, but to be honest, nothing works as well on a daily driver as a regular factory style Nickel Cadmium. Don't get wrapped around the wire about the brand of the battery. There are only like 3 companies left that make nicads for cars, and every store just slaps their sticker on them.
Kurt
The Insterstate will work just fine. I generally just go with the battery cable aisle in parts store and match stuff up.Yeah, I decided to just go with an interstate battery. Anyway, what I'm really looking for now is the size of the ring terminals that connect the ground from the battery to the motor, and the positive to the solenoid. Are they 1/4" 3/8" or what?
I was thinking of doing that but I found some good cables online and they install all the terminals for you for like 2 bucks a foot. Only problem is, I don't know the size of those ring terminals.The Insterstate will work just fine. I generally just go that that battery cable aisle in parts store and match stuff up.
Kurt
I was thinking of doing that but I found some good cables online and they install all the terminals for you for like 2 bucks a foot. Only problem is, I don't know the size of those ring terminals.
Well I'm upgrading to 2 gauge cable because the car currently has 6 gauge cable and the negative is cracked and corroded. I really just need the ring terminal sizes. Also, they sell a kit of factory cables on LMR for 70 bucks. But I'm not paying that, not when I can get the cables for 10 dollars.I had a whole set of battery and charging cables I made myself with 0 gauge cable, and special ends I soldered on myself. It took a good deal of work with a MAP gas torch. I tried to go back to the factory cable setup later only to find out that it was discontinued, and the dealer could get me an over stock set of factory battery cables for $550. I found out that the factory 4 gauge battery cables were not in any way a restriction. I later replaced my whole battery and charging cable setup with the standard 4 gauge very affordable battery cables that are on the aisle at the parts store. They work better, they look cleaner, and they are a lot less work. Don't over think this one.
Kurt
The factory battery is lead acid. So are the Optima batteries. They are built differently, but the active ingredients are the same. Nickel Cadmium batteries were like the early rechargeable AA, 9v and weak, cordless tools.The factory cables are fine performance wise. Now if they are frayed or corroded, I would change them to factory replacement cables. The gauge of the factory cables is more than adequate. As far as the battery, it has nothing to do with the alternator. I had Optima batteries back in like 1992, before they were even sold for cars. I like the Optimas, and the modern tech, but to be honest, nothing works as well on a daily driver as a regular factory style Nickel Cadmium. Don't get wrapped around the wire about the brand of the battery. There are only like 3 companies left that make nicads for cars, and every store just slaps their sticker on them.
Kurt
That's what I ended up doing. I guess I was just being an idiot and not thinking of that. It would fit a 5/16 but I ended up getting 3/8.Can't you just do what the General said? Remove the nut from the solenoid and see what size it is. On my project I ran 2ga with ring terminals (I think the stud size is 3/8") from a power post to the solenoid 'cause the battery is in the trunk.
The factory battery is lead acid. So are the Optima batteries. They are built differently, but the active ingredients are the same. Nickel Cadmium batteries were like the early rechargeable AA, 9v and weak, cordless tools.
Well I'm upgrading to 2 gauge cable because the car currently has 6 gauge cable and the negative is cracked and corroded. I really just need the ring terminal sizes. Also, they sell a kit of factory cables on LMR for 70 bucks. But I'm not paying that, not when I can get the cables for 10 dollars.
Yeah, I appreciate the advice. By the time I'm done the entire charging system will be replaced.Glad you got it worked out!
I just ordered mine off of batterycablesusa.com for 36 inches of negative and 24 inches of positive it cost me 15 dollars with shipping. They are going to crimp and heat shrink the ring terminals for me as well. Also, I already have the PA performance battery terminals so I don't need that end attached.I just use the cables off the battery aisle, because I don't have to crimp and solder them.
Kurt
Great info to have. Thank you.Yeah, I appreciate the advice. By the time I'm done the entire charging system will be replaced.
I just ordered mine off of batterycablesusa.com for 36 inches of negative and 24 inches of positive it cost me 15 dollars with shipping. They are going to crimp and heat shrink the ring terminals for me as well. Also, I already have the PA performance battery terminals so I don't need that end attached.
I have a stock box and a 65 series right now and it fits perfectly. Almost like it belonged there. I actually thought it was a 58 because the numbers were rubbed off but I was wrong.Does the 65 series fill the tray? It’s too freaking cold to go look what I am running. Off site storage, 7 deg F, and bronchitis from hell (not Covid) make that a bad idea.
I probably have a group 58, AC Delco from Menards, 3 or 2 years outright, lead acid, not AGM.
This chart will be helpful on a bigger screen
The stock size battery for my LX 5.0 is not as long as the box, front to rear of the car. I have two PVC house trim pieces cut to take up the space and prevent sliding should the clamp start to loosen. I should look up the class with the right length to fill the box, and with the same width for the stock tray.
If one has a bigger CCA and reserve capacity, some extra weight will be worth it. But bigger batteries are not always more powerful.
The only things I've seen have been the Odyssey, optima and some of the interstate batteries, depending on what you're looking for. Almost all of them are just plain black and look exactly the same with a different label slapped on them.What’s the most eye-appealing battery to stick under the hood these days?
I need a new battery and want one that actually looks decent. Thought about having some classic motorcraft labels made but there has to be some options worth looking into for something with a bit of visual appeal.
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