Got A Good One Need Some Ideas...

Codes please. Or it had bad Taco Bell gas.

Have you pulled the plugs and looked at them at all?

Why would plugs possibly make it backfire, not run, then run again? Or are you just keeping him busy?
I better be careful or y'all will label me as the other grumpy old man.

Well I'm wondering if he has an intermittent fuel or spark issue. If he's dumping fuel And loading up to the point of a giant backfire....? Besides with the turbo/bog issue etc I would have been already checking. I completely agree on pulling codes also.

Did you replace the ect sensor yet? Bud you really need to run the codes first. I'd pull plugs also. It could start pointing you in the ignition area.

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10




Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.

42/91 have to do with fuel system/o2's if I remember right(not 100% sure) I believe youre running to rich. Can you refresh my memory on what fuel system/tuning you have? IE what pump,inj,MAF,tuning device(chip?) etc.
A super rich condition would make sense and explain your problems. That's also why I was talking about the plugs. If you pulled them and checked you probably would have found a fouled plug or 2. Creating a fuel drenched chamber that when it did fire...boom! It also would explain your cold "bog". Your plugs also might not be the right heat range. Excessive fuel-wrong/defective plugs= a bog and a potential backfire. I've seen it a lot on a carbed application. And it to "died". You will usually see a big fire ball out of the carb. I think some of your problem might be in the tune. This is obviously just speculation. Do you have a wideband?