Progress Thread Got Another One! Pics
- Thread starter joetrainer31
- Start date
UPDATE: Finding My Way.
Finally got some navigation installed. It's a nice unit (built in nav, 4 channel audio, sub port, DVD port, USB, aux, Bluetooth, SD card support, single CD player, backup camera support, and 320 watts).
Finally got some navigation installed. It's a nice unit (built in nav, 4 channel audio, sub port, DVD port, USB, aux, Bluetooth, SD card support, single CD player, backup camera support, and 320 watts).
I hear you. I was a bit confused how BBK advertised no loss of charging or cooling with underdrives. Thought I was missing something. Probably just advertising hype. I'm totally staying away from underdrives, but going with 3.55s.Underdrive pulleys.....again
No....no...and no. Carry on.
UPDATE:
Went with the good advice above. I declined the under-drive pulleys and went with the 355:1 R&P. While the job was being done it was observed that the ctrl arm bushings on the diff side were shot, so those were R&R'd. Several of the bushings on the ctrl arms themselves were also shot, so replaced all four ctrl arms with a UPR set. Since those ctrl arms were going to add more grip, and more body flex, I went with Stifflers' full length sub-frame connectors. The car's grip now is night and day in the straights and corners. Lastly, the water pump, which had a slow leak at the backing plate, was R&R'd with a block flush and all new coolant. Now there are no fluid leaks, thank the Lord.
Went with the good advice above. I declined the under-drive pulleys and went with the 355:1 R&P. While the job was being done it was observed that the ctrl arm bushings on the diff side were shot, so those were R&R'd. Several of the bushings on the ctrl arms themselves were also shot, so replaced all four ctrl arms with a UPR set. Since those ctrl arms were going to add more grip, and more body flex, I went with Stifflers' full length sub-frame connectors. The car's grip now is night and day in the straights and corners. Lastly, the water pump, which had a slow leak at the backing plate, was R&R'd with a block flush and all new coolant. Now there are no fluid leaks, thank the Lord.
I must say, the mod status of my car makes for a great daily driver. Its mostly stock with only 355s, H-Pipe, Cat Back, '95GT MAF, timing at 12, subframes, and rear ctrl arms. I've always liked the stock fox seats. Our '15 Focus seats hurt my bad back. The fox seats have always been easy on it. I've added a double din radio / GPS and LED lights, so those modern amenities are there. Not sure it actually needs anything else that isn't broken. It seems it's modded enough to be more fun, but not deviating too far from stock to cause problems. Seems like a good balance. Is anyone else at this juncture with their car?
I have 3.55 gears, McLeod street clutch, lowering springs, caster camber plates, control arms, BBK X-pipe with cats, and an Explorer TB with a 70mm T-Bird MAF housing and '94-'95 Mustang MAF sensor. The TB and MAF made a huge difference.
Subframe connectors are on the list to install this summer. I'll also probably install my JBA shorty headers.
Subframe connectors are on the list to install this summer. I'll also probably install my JBA shorty headers.
DDing it?
I'm holding off on shorties because I've been reading that, if under 270-280hp, they will loose lower RPM torque.
I think you will not notice a loss of torque down low with short tube headers. I put short tubes on my vert, only because they look better than stock headers, totally stock, no noticeable difference.
I prefer long tubes but I'm kinda old fashioned. @geoklass is pretty much the header expert around here, mostly racing stuff though I think. He has a thread somewhere around here on the header subject.
UPDATE: Positive Ventilation.
This is a really basic thing, but I decided to R&R the PCV system (i.e., metal screen, rubber grommet, PCV). As with the fuel filter, I didn't know when or if it had ever been changed. The car isn't burning any oil and has no evidence of blow-by in the MAF or intake tubing. I figured it was easy enough to change and [is] a maintenance item.
The vac hose to the PCV seemed that it had not been touched in years (if ever). The PCV was motorcraft. Was it original? I don't know, but it did still work (i.e., still rattled). The grommet seemed okay, but I changed it, too. Then, I got down to the screen. After seeing it I think I knew why the PCV was still working: not much at all, if anything, was making it through the metal screen! It was slammed full of sediment. Take a look below.
After changing the above items the car runs noticeably smoother. It also idles at a more normal RPM (850-900). Before it used to hit 1000 or 1100RPM at idle and hardly ever went to 900.
This is a really basic thing, but I decided to R&R the PCV system (i.e., metal screen, rubber grommet, PCV). As with the fuel filter, I didn't know when or if it had ever been changed. The car isn't burning any oil and has no evidence of blow-by in the MAF or intake tubing. I figured it was easy enough to change and [is] a maintenance item.
The vac hose to the PCV seemed that it had not been touched in years (if ever). The PCV was motorcraft. Was it original? I don't know, but it did still work (i.e., still rattled). The grommet seemed okay, but I changed it, too. Then, I got down to the screen. After seeing it I think I knew why the PCV was still working: not much at all, if anything, was making it through the metal screen! It was slammed full of sediment. Take a look below.
After changing the above items the car runs noticeably smoother. It also idles at a more normal RPM (850-900). Before it used to hit 1000 or 1100RPM at idle and hardly ever went to 900.
