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got my DF clutch - couple Q's

  • Thread starter Thread starter Saleen4971
  • Start date Start date Feb 1, 2007
S

Saleen4971

New Member
Mar 26, 2003
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Setauket, LI
Feb 1, 2007
#1
  • Feb 1, 2007
  • #1
got my centerforce DF clutch today! bought it brand new off an SVTP member for 275 shipped. came with the pressure plate and disc.

couple questions for you guys

why do the "weights" on teh fingers move? i assuem they are supposed to?
ford OEM TOB is best correct?
any better clutch forks out there?
do we have a pilot bushing or bearing in teh flywheel?
where is the cheapest place to get a fidanza aluminum flywheel, poly trans mount, adn aluminum D/S??
what sort of break in should i do with this clutch?
new flywheel bolts?
 
S

Saleen4971

New Member
Mar 26, 2003
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Setauket, LI
Feb 2, 2007
#2
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #2
quick search on centerforces website...

weights are centrifugal and shoudl move and will center themselves.
450-500 miles break-in easy city driving
 

Shiroelex

There's nothing worse than aut
Founding Member
Aug 23, 2001
728
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Westland, MI
Feb 2, 2007
#3
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #3
I hear that the Centerforce throwout is the way to go, if you have their clutch. I think it's even reccomended somewhere on their site. New flywheel bolts aren't necessary, just put some threadlocker on them when you reinstall. I'd reccomend getting a new pivot ball and clutch fork assembly, along with an adjustable cable and quadrant. That, combined with new tranny fluid and a good short shifter will make your trans feel like the most incredible thing in the world.
 

LaserRed01GT

Banned
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Clearwater, FL
Feb 2, 2007
#4
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #4
We have a pilot bearing. If you are using the stock flywheel, do yourself a favor and rent a pilot bearing removal tool. With a slide hammer and PB removal tool, you can quickly get the old PB out. The stock clutch release lever is more than adequate. The stock flywheel bolts will be fine, just use some red Loctite threadlocker.

The weights on the diaphragm springs are supposed to move. As RPM in increased and therefore centrifugal force is incresed, the weights slide out and provide more clutch disc clamping force.

From Centerforce:

Centerforce Recommends 450-500 Miles Of In Town Stop And Go Type Of Easy Driving Before Applying Full Power. If Your Driving Consists Of Mainly Highway Type Use, The Break In Period Should Be Longer Than The 450-500 Miles.
Click to expand...

Centerforce has some nice billet aluminum flywheels.
 

stangman

15 Year Member
Jul 10, 2003
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in a 3 bed, 2 bath
Feb 2, 2007
#5
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #5
i put the centerforce TO bearing in mine & it needs replaced. i'll be putting a stock ford one back in shortly. other than that, it's taken every bit of abuse i've thrown at it for the last 2 years
 
S

Saleen4971

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Feb 2, 2007
#6
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #6
well im gonan get an aluminum flywheel so i dont plan on removing the old pilot bearing. ill jsut get a ford OEM TOB, pilot bearing. i alreayd heav a steeda quad, adjsuter and shifter.

grab some GM synchromesh fluid, a crossmomber, an al d/s and an al/ flywheel and ooooooill be happy
 

LaserRed01GT

Banned
Oct 3, 2006
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Clearwater, FL
Feb 2, 2007
#7
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #7
Saleen4971 said:
well im gonan get an aluminum flywheel so i dont plan on removing the old pilot bearing. ill jsut get a ford OEM TOB, pilot bearing. i alreayd heav a steeda quad, adjsuter and shifter.

grab some GM synchromesh fluid, a crossmomber, an al d/s and an al/ flywheel and ooooooill be happy
Click to expand...

Spend a few extra bucks and get the heavy duty Ford Racing TO bearing.

HD Ford Racing TO Bearing

BTW, it's cheaper at Summit.
 
S

Saleen4971

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Mar 26, 2003
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#8
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #8
thats a bearing? looks like a crank or cam bearing, not a roller bearing. unless its a sort of sealed unit?
 

LaserRed01GT

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#9
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #9
Saleen4971 said:
thats a bearing? looks like a crank or cam bearing, not a roller bearing. unless its a sort of sealed unit?
Click to expand...

Yep, that's a throwout bearing. That doesn't look anything like a cam or main bearing.
 
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Saleen4971

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#10
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  • #10
look at the inner race. it resembles a main/cam bearing much more than a roller bearing
 

Dope 97GT

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Jul 16, 2005
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Rochester, NY (SUNY Brockport)
Feb 3, 2007
#11
  • Feb 3, 2007
  • #11
i sent you a pm about a flywheel.
 

LaserRed01GT

Banned
Oct 3, 2006
739
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Clearwater, FL
Feb 3, 2007
#12
  • Feb 3, 2007
  • #12
Saleen4971 said:
look at the inner race. it resembles a main/cam bearing much more than a roller bearing
Click to expand...

That's the way TO bearings have looked on Fords since 1979.

4.6's don't have cam bearings, they use bearing caps. Here is a 4.6 bi-metal aluminum main bearing shell with the plain lower halves and umbrella grooved upper halves. You be the judge.

View attachment 406046
 
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Saleen4971

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Setauket, LI
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#13
  • Feb 3, 2007
  • #13
*sigh*

i did not mean that the TOB pictures looked EXACTLY like a ford main bearing.

for5 some reason i had a brain fart and was thinking of a pilot bearing, not throw out bearing. i was thinking of a bearing that looks liek this:


what i saw a pretty much flat surface with no rollers/balls/whatever, it looked more like the style of bearing that a crank or cam bearing (pushrod cam. i realize that the 4.6 does not use traditional press in cam bearings) than it did a roller bearing.

i know what main bearing look like. i have had numerous motors apart before
 

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LaserRed01GT

Banned
Oct 3, 2006
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Clearwater, FL
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#14
  • Feb 3, 2007
  • #14
Yep, that's a roller pilot bearing. It's debatable which is better..having an inner race with ball bearings, or having exposed roller bearings. On the older .669" input shafts, the roller pilot bearings seemed to hold up better.
 
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Saleen4971

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#15
  • Feb 3, 2007
  • #15
i thinkt he exposed ones may offer slightly (VERY slightly) less friction. but personally i would prefer a sealed bearing (or at least one with an inner race)
 
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