got my suspension in today...WOW!

91LX_5L · Oct 26, 2005

I bought mine super slightly used for $250.00

V8SHME8 · Oct 26, 2005

What are you running in the rear? The reason I ask is because the lower mounting eyelet on Tokico shocks can not support the weight of the coilover and will eventually fail.

BTW the reason people say you can not lower the car more than 1.5 inches (and truthfully I would not lower a stock SN95 more than an inch) has nothing to do with aesthetics. You adversely affect the roll center of the car and steering axis inclination greatly. Just take a look at your lower control arms and notice they are pointed up.

LoudToy958 · Oct 26, 2005

V8SHME8 said:
What are you running in the rear? The reason I ask is because the lower mounting eyelet on Tokico shocks can not support the weight of the coilover and will eventually fail.

BTW the reason people say you can not lower the car more than 1.5 inches (and truthfully I would not lower a stock SN95 more than an inch) has nothing to do with aesthetics. You adversely affect the roll center of the car and steering axis inclination greatly. Just take a look at your lower control arms and notice they are pointed up.

This is where the panhard bar comes in. Combined with the torque arm, the upper control arms are removed, and the lowers are relieved of all side to side duty.

True that too low does cause issues in other places though.

95Vert · Oct 26, 2005

Don't have time to read it all so I'll just subscribe.

DougNuts · Oct 26, 2005

It was worth the money wasn't it.

I remember when i was trying to talk you into that set-up a couple months ago.

juiced_94gt · Oct 26, 2005

What springs do you have on the coilovers and on the rear? and what is the setting on your tokico's? Im looking into doing this same set-up on the girlfriends 2001 cobra

V8SHME8 · Oct 26, 2005

LoudToy958 said:
This is where the panhard bar comes in. Combined with the torque arm, the upper control arms are removed, and the lowers are relieved of all side to side duty.

Well, I was actually refering to front suspension. It is not uncommon to relocate the LCAs further down on the axle side in order to achieve antisquat. You can also preload some of that into your torque arm which I am sure you know especially if you did the install yourself.

I was not going to really get into this discussion since most people are more interested in drag racing, but I figure I will discuss since I already started. I am sure Bimmertech will have something to add as well. The solution to lowering your car without causing problems with bump steer, adding steering axis inclination, offsetting your scrub radius, and losing ackerman steering is to buy a new K-member that is properly designed. Otherwise, if you want a car that is competitive, then you want to stick with a minimal drop and focus more on increasing spring rate.

It is best to just lower the car to the point that the front A arms are parallel to the ground. On an SN95 car, that is like about an inch unfortunately for aesthetics. However, if you just want your car to look all mad tight yo' then you will probably not be happy with this drop.

nmcgrawj · Oct 26, 2005

bimmertech said:
people still drag race?

Ummm not sure of the point of this question.

DougNuts · Oct 26, 2005

They sell drag race stuff.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/index.asp

LoudToy958 · Oct 26, 2005

V8SHME8 said:
Well, I was actually refering to front suspension. It is not uncommon to relocate the LCAs further down on the axle side in order to achieve antisquat. You can also preload some of that into your torque arm which I am sure you know especially if you did the install yourself.

I was not going to really get into this discussion since most people are more interested in drag racing, but I figure I will discuss since I already started. I am sure Bimmertech will have something to add as well. The solution to lowering your car without causing problems with bump steer, adding steering axis inclination, offsetting your scrub radius, and losing ackerman steering is to buy a new K-member that is properly designed. Otherwise, if you want a car that is competitive, then you want to stick with a minimal drop and focus more on increasing spring rate.

It is best to just lower the car to the point that the front A arms are parallel to the ground. On an SN95 car, that is like about an inch unfortunately for aesthetics. However, if you just want your car to look all mad tight yo' then you will probably not be happy with this drop.

Very nice. I agree 100%. There is a such thing as too low. However, when it comes to track racing, there is also a too light(in the front, not overall), but thats another topic. I added the bumpsteer kit, and X2 ball joints a long time ago to aid in combating any major steering issues, but a K-Member is the proper way to readjust the front suspension. Just so happens I have one coming from MM. They still reccommed the bump steer kit, and even a step further, solid rack bushings. Great info in your post though. People also need to know, when buying coil over springs multiply the spring rate by 3 to compensate for the spring relocation.

Sounds like you are someone I needed a month ago. I hope we can talk more as I get more in depth into my suspension. Got a MM K-member, tubular a-arms, solid rack bushings, and through floor sub frames coming next month. Any other recommendations are welcome.

91LX_5L · Oct 26, 2005

I have 325lb 10" front springs and eibach sportlines in the rear, which I took the dead coil out of.

bimmertech · Oct 26, 2005

nmcgrawj said:
Ummm not sure of the point of this question.

it was just a smart ass way to say that i have no idea, as i do not drag race and don't focus my intent on the movements of a drag suspension.

i do agree with all that has been said before about the excessive lowering of the vehicle. when i speak on suspension i am focused towards a street car that can see limited non-competitive track time, so with that said if your goal for your vehicle is a street car then i would not worry about adding alot of high dollar parts cuz your tires(and quite possibly nerves) will be the noticeable weak link in your setup. basically if you aren't really railin corners all day long the reward vs cost will not be justified.

i was taking for granted that you bought the better lower shock mounts for the rear, if not i would add that to the top of the list followed by sfc's, phb, center drilled rack bushings w/ bumpsteer kit(especially with that drop). with that setup you should have a very good street car, albiet not ballz out. also for peace of mind i would get in there and weld up my rear shock towers and add a rear shock brace.

bimmertech · Oct 26, 2005

91LX_5L said:
I have 325lb 10" front springs and eibach sportlines in the rear, which I took the dead coil out of.

ok, so you arent running the coilovers in the rear, i see.

as for your vibration, i don't have my rear axle weight on and it really made no effect on my vehicle. i have 3.73's and an aluminum d/s.

nmcgrawj · Oct 26, 2005

bimmertech said:
it was just a smart ass way to say that i have no idea, as i do not drag race and don't focus my intent on the movements of a drag suspension.

Cool

bimmertech said:
as for your vibration, i don't have my rear axle weight on and it really made no effect on my vehicle. i have 3.73's and an aluminum d/s.

Same here...i heard it was only good when u had stock gears

Car Nut · Oct 26, 2005

LoudToy958 said:
Very nice. I agree 100%. There is a such thing as too low. However, when it comes to track racing, there is also a too light(in the front, not overall), but thats another topic. I added the bumpsteer kit, and X2 ball joints a long time ago to aid in combating any major steering issues, but a K-Member is the proper way to readjust the front suspension. Just so happens I have one coming from MM. They still reccommed the bump steer kit, and even a step further, solid rack bushings. Great info in your post though. People also need to know, when buying coil over springs multiply the spring rate by 3 to compensate for the spring relocation.

Sounds like you are someone I needed a month ago. I hope we can talk more as I get more in depth into my suspension. Got a MM K-member, tubular a-arms, solid rack bushings, and through floor sub frames coming next month. Any other recommendations are welcome.

I agree also and the comments by V8SHME8. I've got the Race springs with Bilsteins, but the drop isn't but about 1.25 inches roughly. However, with a host of other MM stuff I've added to the front, I'm satisfied with the front end. Now I've got to finish the rear with MM stuff. Braking, handling, and acceleration are much smoother and drastically better than stock.

As far as bumpsteer goes, I only have the solid rack bushings, c/c plates, and new endlinks. No bumpsteer at all. Roads out here are sometimes very bumpy and uneven, but the car has always tracked straight through them perfectly (actually much better than stock). Of course, if I was a lot lower I'd probably need something different.

The Race Springs have a spring rate of 750/850 which seems higher than most of the other popular springs. Still OK for daily driving, though.

LoudToy958 · Oct 26, 2005

Car Nut - I liked the Race Springs because of the high spring rate. The only way I could get a better spring rate was with coil overs. I only switched cause I track my car a lot now. I drive it on the streets once and a while to a few shows here and there, but mostly just rip it around the track as fast as she'll allow.

The bilsteins make a huge difference though. I switched from the tokicos to the bilsteins and noticed a big difference. Nothing wrong with the tokicos, but I prefer the bilsteins. As far as bump steer, some people never need it. With the Race Springs, you really should not need it. I didn't, but I knew I would everntually swap the K memeber, and it is a recommendation.

Thanks for the idea. Bimmertech, I just put in an order for a rear shock tower brace. Cheaper than I though it would be. Thanks...

TheDamned · Oct 26, 2005

SICK CAR WOAH!! This drop lookks good

Pokageek · Oct 26, 2005

Your car looks awesome dude.

5.0_GT_kid · Oct 26, 2005

Loudtoy I wanna hear your Magnapacks too!

V8SHME8 · Oct 26, 2005

I totally figured I would get flamed for not recommending lakewood 50/50s. Glad to see someone agrees with me.

LoudToy958 said:
Sounds like you are someone I needed a month ago. I hope we can talk more as I get more in depth into my suspension. Got a MM K-member, tubular a-arms, solid rack bushings, and through floor sub frames coming next month. Any other recommendations are welcome.

You car is getting pretty serious and getting to the point where driver preference comes into play alot. I will say that it seems you can never have enough caster on a mustang. So hopefully you got offset A arms. Your car is futher along then mine, but I am going to max out the caster when the time comes for my setup and my car is completely a street car.

What spring rates are you running? I am sure that you could benefit from an adjustable rear bar. EVM makes a pretty trick one that is cheap which you can use as long as you have sway bar mounts on your LCAs. Sometimes that TA can induce alot of understeer and you have to tune it out with a rear bar, but you would be the one to make that call not me.

Either way good look with the car, I am sure it already handles a million times better than it did.

got my suspension in today...WOW!

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