got my suspension in today...WOW!

LoudToy958 · Oct 26, 2005

V8SHME8 said:
I totally figured I would get flamed for not recommending lakewood 50/50s. Glad to see someone agrees with me.

You car is getting pretty serious and getting to the point where driver preference comes into play alot. I will say that it seems you can never have enough caster on a mustang. So hopefully you got offset A arms. Your car is futher along then mine, but I am going to max out the caster when the time comes for my setup and my car is completely a street car.

What spring rates are you running? I am sure that you could benefit from an adjustable rear bar. EVM makes a pretty trick one that is cheap which you can use as long as you have sway bar mounts on your LCAs. Sometimes that TA can induce alot of understeer and you have to tune it out with a rear bar, but you would be the one to make that call not me.

Either way good look with the car, I am sure it already handles a million times better than it did.

I actually ordered the MM rear sway bar, mounts a little different, but I have heard a lot of great things about it. I change parts a lot, not sure I will like, but if I don't, I will sell it like the other stuff. I figured on offset a-arms. You are among a fleet of people who made that recommendation. Glad to know everyone is on the same page. With the MM K memeber, I can actually move the engine and tranny back 1". I have not heard if this is a good idea or not. Any thought on the subject? Seems like it would take a lot of weight off the front wheels and cause the car not to nose into the turns as much. As far as rates, I have 425 fronts, and 225 rears. I had 400 fronts, and 250 rears, and it was a little off. This new setup is much more satisfactory. I am, however willing to take other recommendations as always.

Deffinetly hope we can keep in touch here though. Not a lot of people into tracking cars. Most are just out for the 1/4 mile.

Chowder Head · Oct 26, 2005

I don't think you mentioned it, but how much did you pay for installation?

91LX_5L · Oct 26, 2005

I got it done for 400$ thats Canadian, so like $330ish then tax.

LoudToy958 · Oct 27, 2005

Not really too bad of a price for all that work. I still can't let anyone touch my car though. We did panhard bar, and coil over kit in about 6 hours one night, and the exhaust and torque arm in about 2 hours the next day. Then we drove 1100 miles from San Diego to Portland on 6 hours of sleep. Not to bad for a weekend really.

91LX_5L · Oct 27, 2005

nice man. how much did that set you back for the bar?

LoudToy958 · Oct 27, 2005

91LX_5L said:
nice man. how much did that set you back for the bar?

Not sure which one you mean.

Panhard bar was 279.99 - only because I ordered close to 3k US dollars in parts that day. I saved about 375 bucks buying it all at once.

I just picked up the rear shock tower brace for 115.00 shipped. The panhard is by far my favorite mod to date. Coilovers are my next. That panhard makes a big difference in the rear if you take corners hard like I do. I think I need some track time now to get used to the car. Some lessons wouldn't be bad either, but the school is almost $3500.

Chowder Head · Oct 27, 2005

How hard is all of this stuff 91LX_5L got installed if you want to do it yourself?

My stock suspension is crying for a makeover and I want to see if I can realistically attempt this.

Thanks!

95snoozer · Oct 27, 2005

91LX_5L said:
I got my car bac today and I'm glad I just got it done since I was really running out of time to do it. Did a great job. To me it feels like an entire diffrent car. Hugs the road like crazy, back end feels great too.

I ended up getting Maximum Motorsports Coil-Overs, Tokico Illumina 5 way shocks/struts, MM CC plates, MM LCAs, and Steeda HD UCAs and off-set rack bushings. Also got him to toss on my under-drive pulleys. Now my car seems to handle the way a sports-car should. Need to get the alignment done and shes good to go. Cant wait till I get my new big brake kit on. But im shure once thats on its gonna feel too slow next up...forced induction (wont be for a while tho, going travelling).

I am amazed at how much better it handles now, I dont know if its the coil overs, the shocks/struts or what but man does it feel great!!! I am running SN95 struts/shocks too for those that say you cant lower your car more then 1.5" I dunno what your talking about, my car is now probaly 2.5" lowered in the front.

[/QUOTE]

you have stock struts?

you will see... you can lower your car with stock stuff but it doesnt last long, nowr does it work well if they do last.

mine was slammed with coilovers in the front and it would bottom out the strut every where. my rear shocks are also ruined from this.

I have h&r springs now which are 1.7 inch drop. honestly its about as stiff as my roomate's stock springs with his bilsteins all around. get some good struts if you dont already have them, and definitely a panhard and torque arm setup to kepe that rear inline with your car.

edit: i see you have tokicos

V8SHME8 · Oct 27, 2005

LoudToy958 said:
With the MM K memeber, I can actually move the engine and tranny back 1". I have not heard if this is a good idea or not. Any thought on the subject? Seems like it would take a lot of weight off the front wheels and cause the car not to nose into the turns as much.

Yeah, I would buy the MM sway bar too unfortunately my pocket book dictated the EVM. Really do not need to worry about removing weight from the front end because that is what needs to be done anyway. Obviously moving the motor back an inch will help distribute the weight back, but you will never need to worry about not having enough weight in the nose. It is a noble attempt to get 50-50 weight distribution, but odds are that you or I will always be nose heavy with that big lump of cast iron up front. It will certainly help the car from driving in turns and losing rear grip though.

With that said, moving the motor back has more to do with increasing ackerman steering. I would not hesitate one iota about putting the motor as far back as possible. The only negative thing about moving the motor back an inch is working room under the hood.

95snoozer · Oct 27, 2005

yeah, get all the weight back and as low as you can,

and get aluminum heads if you can! 50 pounds off the nose of the car, cant beat that and the power gain.

LoudToy958 · Oct 27, 2005

Chowder Head said:
How hard is all of this stuff 91LX_5L got installed if you want to do it yourself?

My stock suspension is crying for a makeover and I want to see if I can realistically attempt this.

Thanks!

If you have never done it, it might take some time. Its not hard for someone that has common sense, and knows there way around tools. An air tool setup will save you a lot of grief on the front suspension on a higher milage car too. Me and a buddy can do a full strut/shock spring switch in about 2 hours now.

V8SHME8 - I know abou the pocketbook issue. Mine is stopping me from my H/C/I right now. It took me 4 years to pay off the Credit cards, so I refuse to put anything on them I can't pay off the next payday. I have been saving for a couple of years in anticipation of my next stang. My first 95 GT was a test platform I guess. I made my mistakes there, and hopefully I get it right this time. Time to lay off a bit now that Christmas is here. Gotta buy gifts now. I should have the suspension DONE by summer though. I will keep everyone update with pics.........

91LX_5L - I feel kinda bad for intruding so deeply into your thread. You had some great stuff done, and I watch your car closely. Keep it up, and I will try not to be such an a$$ in your future threads. This one just struck a cord with me........

AP1995V6 · Oct 27, 2005

91LX_5L-

What size tire are you running up front?

WhiteDevil · Oct 27, 2005

Wow there is a lot of great info floating around in this thread. I have learned alot, a lot more than in my History 536 class i was just in

91LX_5L · Oct 27, 2005

AP1995V6 said:
91LX_5L-

What size tire are you running up front?

265/35/18s Roush wheel.

94GTLaserRC · Oct 27, 2005

:Word:
That's a big chunk of change at one time, but in the long-run, you'll be glad.

I think susp mods should be MANDATORY before power mods, but then again, it's pretty hard to spend $2k or so without gaining much power.

Congrats
RC

91LX_5L · Oct 27, 2005

Well my motor is DECENT for now nothing too fancy if it were stock I would of got heads/cam/intake but it allready has that, nothing fancy tho. So im making my car handle and brake well, look good, since the motor is decent now, evenutally I want a well built 331 with a turbo or S trim.

91LX_5L · Nov 7, 2005

So anyways do you think I should still get a panhand bar, im not running rear coil-overs just the fronts, read my sig for my mods. Im thinking coil-overs next then mabye a beefy sway bar?

Comments?

thanks

LoudToy958 · Nov 8, 2005

91LX_5L said:
So anyways do you think I should still get a panhand bar, im not running rear coil-overs just the fronts, read my sig for my mods. Im thinking coil-overs next then mabye a beefy sway bar?

Comments?

thanks

I would try the panhard bar before switching to coil overs in the rear. You may find that is all you need back there. The only thing the coil-overs will give you is adjustability back there. I don't mean don't get coil-overs by any means. The panhard bar gives the rear end a total different feel rippin around corners. The rear of the car will hold a lot better.

Caldwell · Nov 8, 2005

That looks really good man, a vast improvement... the lowering just helps your 18s fill out your wheel wells so much better.

deadlast · Nov 8, 2005

very sexy ride. what kind of light bulbs in the headlights and fogs? very white

got my suspension in today...WOW!

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