Got out bid

  • Sponsors (?)


Saw this the other day...

Saw this ad the other day, hope it helps

-Trevor

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/130485108.html

Complete 4 speed setup for 1971-1973 Mustang or Cougar

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reply to: [email protected]
Date: 2006-02-01, 7:32PM EST


Today, I removed EVERY piece needed to change from Automatic to 4 Speed in a 1971-1973 Mustang or Cougar. Included is:

Toploader 4 speed transmission
Bellhousing
clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing
clutch fork
pivot (Z-bar), frame bracket, release rod
Driveshaft
pedals and support bracket (Power brake car)
Hurst shifter and linkage
crossmember
flywheel
every bolt and screw for installation

The upper rubber shifter boot is cracked. The lower boot and fork boot were missing. The shifter is an aftermarket Hurst replacement (although the originals were Hurst, too). It has aftermarket Hurst rods. The transmission is number RUG-E2, which is from a 1967 Mustang, according to my books. It is a wide ratio unit. Quite frankly, there is very little difference in ANY of the small block toploaders. The clutch assembly is almost new. The flywheel has some scoring, but can easily be resurfaced or used the way it is. The brake pedal is from a Power Disc Brake car, and will NOT work with manual drum brakes. This setup was removed from a 1973 Mustang with a factory 351 Cleveland 4V, 4 speed, and a 9" posi rear. The bellhousing will bolt up to ANY small block ford. Please contact me if you have any questions. Listing it here first, eBay in a couple of days.

$1000 FIRM for everything, picked up in Harford County. Sold AS IS. Removed on 2/1/06, so it hasn't been sitting on the shelf forever.

Thank you,
Greg
(443) 497-4721 cell
 
BDT 1967 said:
Its a crying shame to loose a auction. But its even worse to loose it in the last 20 seconds. Anybody know were i can get a toploader 4 speed for a small block mustang.
If you're going to shop ebay, you'd be better off joining the "sniper" team:D Sniping= good for the buyer, ( keeps the price down) Bad for the seller. I NEVER bid till the last minute. Why bid and let some newbie bid up the price against you ? Yea, it hurts to loose something that way, but get on the bandwagon and fight back:D One thing to remember about ebay: if you loose something, there's ALWAYS going to be another just like it listed ( eventually) you just have to be patient and make sure to be online when the auction ends. Another tip : do a search for "Ford Transmission" and keep it in your favorite searches. One of the Toploaders I bought was thru ebay. The seller listed it as an SROD from a 79 Stang. It wasn't, turned out to be a wide ratio Toploader from an earlier Stang, included the flywheel (told him to keep that:nono: I don't trust used 30 year old flywheels) the bellhousing (that WAS from a 79 Stang, sold it back on ebay for $85, too deep for a Toploader anyway, but works with a Tremec 3550) and the shifter ( Hurst Comp + ) All that for the "BUY IT NOW" price of $150 :D :D :nice: :nice: With the shipping cost ( $80) and minus the selling price of the bell I sold, it cost me only $145. It's been in my 89 V8 Ranger since. And don't be afraid to buy one that needs repairs. You can fix them yourself, tear down and assembly is realatively simple with the right instructions and there's no special tools needed. I've done three so far. Bought all the parts from David Kee Toploaders:nice:
 
Rusty67 said:
I bid snipe by hand, I use 2 browser windows. Don't mess with the skills =P

I used to do that. The part that sucks is having to be awake and at the computer whenever the auction is scheduled to be over. Sometimes that is 3-4 in the morning which doesn't work for me. SnipeSwipe cost me $4-5.00 for 500 snipe points and I don't have to worry about checking the auctions.
 
I have a toploader out of my '66...not sure what other parts you may need to go along...I've been SLOWLY getting the TKO600/Lakewood bellhousing, etc setup.
 
It just sttrikes me as wrong to give your logon name and password to ANYONE. I have sniped many things over the years but i do it by hand the old fashioned way, dual browser windows open simultaneously. Liberal use of the F5 key, and place the highest price you are willing to pay when there's 7-10 seconds left. If you loose it it just means someone was willing to pay more than your highest price, they can have it then.

Never ever bid before the last 30 seconds...EVAR!
 
Edbert said:
It just sttrikes me as wrong to give your logon name and password to ANYONE. and place the highest price you are willing to pay when there's 7-10 seconds left. If you loose it it just means someone was willing to pay more than your highest price, they can have it then.

Never ever bid before the last 30 seconds...EVAR!
AMEN brother !! :nice: :nice:
 
Edbert said:
It just sttrikes me as wrong to give your logon name and password to ANYONE.

I thought about that when I used the "free trial" initially. A few years later and no issues at all. The worst that would happen is I would have to dump my existing ebay account and create a new one.