Got questions about some things

Drewvian said:

how hard would it be for me to take care of some of the little rust problems I have since it used to be a vinyle top?

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that depends on teh rust problem. if it is surface rust, then it is easy to handle with some sandpaper and elbow grease. if on the other hand you have rust holes, then it gets harder as you have to replace the metal in the area.

Drewvian said:

Also For a every day car would a 302 be a better streetable engine then a 351W?

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that depends on how the engines are built. if the 302 is built very healthy with a large cam, compared to the 351, then no. if both engines are mild builds, then maybe. the key is in the engine combination, and what compromises you make when building the engine.for example, if you wanted a strong engine for the track, but still wanted something mild enough for the street, then i would recommend building the 351w as the extra displacment makes it easy to make good power, and yet still have good drivability.

Drewvian said:

I would like to get a good amount of power out of it but nothing to crazy or should I stick with the 289? I am going to rebuild the 289 just so I can have the car be able to ride while I my first build? If I could get any idea's from you guys that would be great. Thanks for all the help in advance

Drew

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here again it depends on the engine combination you plan to use. there isnt much difference between a 289, and a similarly built 302. one will have better high end hp and the other will have better low end torque.

the 289 that i am going to build for my 66 falcon goes something like this;

1: rotating assembly balanced

2: stock flattop pistons

3: windsor jr heads with 1.94in/1.50ex valves(yes they are the original style jr heads)

4: a weiand action plus intake with a 4100 autolite carb

5: tri-y headers and dual 2 1/4" pipes out the back with a good turbo style muffler.

6: likely a comp cams 268 high energy cam with 1.6 rockers.

this engine should make about 280hp, and will be hooked to an AOD with 3.55 gears out back. it should make for a fun car to drive, and it should still knock down 25mpg or so on the road, and at least 18 in town.

by the way, dont be suckered into spending money on "blueprinting" your engine as you will never see the power increase on the street, and you will be out about $300 iirc. balancing on the other hand is always a good idea, as bearing wear, ring wear, and crank wear are all reduced due to less vibration, and the engine runs smoother as well.