Got some brake questions?

They shouldnt need to be turned, unless you can see they aren't true. Lay em on a flat surface (granite table, good strait-edge) if youre in doubt.

You should however "run them in"... i.e. take em out BEFORE you go anywhere, and stop from 5, then 10, then 15, 20, etc... up to about 50 and give em a min or so inbetween each one to cool off.

That will usually avoid the customary mustang "first drag stip stop and their warped" syndrome. (although cobras dont usually have this problem as far as I know)

Sounds like a nice upgrade.
Dave-
:flag: :nice:
 
jordanvraptor said:
Do brand new rotors have to be turned before installation? Where is a good machine shop to have it done ? I just got some new Hawk HPS pads and have some OEM Brembo rotors on the way. Those 306 timeslips have taken their toll... :rolleyes: :flag:
no they dont need to be turned, just take some brake clean and spray em off before you install them, sometimes they come with a protective coating of crap.
 
I just did my brakes. New Hawk HPS, turned factory rotors and SS brake lines. I also put Hawk HPS pads on the rear.

Look hard at the rear rotors. Mine were much worse than the front rotors.

I used the Stoptech bedding process. I did all three 10 60 to 10 mph runs. Seems to be working great.

These pads need a little heat in them before they really bite.
 
I am doing the front rotors more as a preventative measure. Dont know if they could be turned. Remember, I only have ONE car... So its plug n play. Can't really take off the rotors and drive to a machine shop and have them done. I'm pretty confident in my ability to swap the rotors and pads by myself. I've done pads before. In any case, The old rotors might be good if they are resurfaced. Anyone want them after I make the swap? The rear rotors are fine and I had KKoncepts replace the pads a while back. I thought about SS brake lines but decided I really dont use the car to that extent as to justify the purchase. :flag:
 
If you dont play hard in the twisties you prolly dont need the ss brake lines. But i did the whole 9 yards. Russel lines front and back, brembo slotted and vgs pads. Car stopps well now. Dont forget the wilwood 600 degree brake fluid to keep it from boiling. Over kill for the street, btu im confident i wont have to worry about my brakes at any point in near future, on or off the track. Going fast is fun, but at some point you have to stop. Better to do itwith your brakes/ tires as aopposed to front bumper. Just my .02
 
fast99cobra said:
If you dont play hard in the twisties you prolly dont need the ss brake lines. But i did the whole 9 yards. Russel lines front and back, brembo slotted and vgs pads. Car stopps well now. Dont forget the wilwood 600 degree brake fluid to keep it from boiling. Over kill for the street, btu im confident i wont have to worry about my brakes at any point in near future, on or off the track. Going fast is fun, but at some point you have to stop. Better to do itwith your brakes/ tires as aopposed to front bumper. Just my .02

I could not agree more, BRAKE overkill is a safe bet........... :flag:
 
Hey Paul,

Now that your car is working are interested in another open track day? You missed a goodtime at the SAAC event.

fast99cobra said:
If you dont play hard in the twisties you prolly dont need the ss brake lines. But i did the whole 9 yards. Russel lines front and back, brembo slotted and vgs pads. Car stopps well now. Dont forget the wilwood 600 degree brake fluid to keep it from boiling. Over kill for the street, btu im confident i wont have to worry about my brakes at any point in near future, on or off the track. Going fast is fun, but at some point you have to stop. Better to do itwith your brakes/ tires as aopposed to front bumper. Just my .02