Got Suspension?

QU!CK · Jan 21, 2006

Alright guys, I'm a suspension n00b and need to learn as much as possible pretty quick. I'm planning on making a trip to the mountains with some of my import buddies to drive The Tail of The Dragon...for those that haven't heard of it, it's an 11 mile stretch of road with 318 turns

This is not a road to play games on but I would still like to be able to keep up with their lighter, better handling cars. I'm on a bit of a tight budget so what would you guys reccomend to make my stang handle better?

btw. I'm currently still on my stock Bullitt Suspension

-J

QU!CK · Jan 21, 2006

FWIW, here's a layout of the road with elevation changes...

View attachment 490352

-J

dew22 · Jan 21, 2006

Budget?

02GTdroptop · Jan 21, 2006

I just finished a suspension install with H&R SS springs, MM C/C plate and KYB AGX shocks/struts and it's absolutely amazing, handles like its on rails! but it wasn't "cheap"...

QU!CK · Jan 21, 2006

dew22 said:
Budget?

Whatever my tax return is plus a little more so maybe $800-1200 range

-J

dew22 · Jan 21, 2006

QU!CK said:
Whatever my tax return is plus a little more so maybe $800-1200 range

-J

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/giab.asp

Good foundation.

QU!CK · Jan 21, 2006

Thanks, any other options/opinions?

-J

wannabe2000GT · Jan 21, 2006

well maximum motorsports is just about the best there is. alot of guys on here are running H&R supersports and blistins. so if you get those about 200 for springs 500 for shocks/struts, 200 for MM C/C plates. thats about your budget not including an alignment. about $1000 not including instalation if your gonna have someone else do it for you.

QU!CK · Jan 21, 2006

wannabe2000GT said:
well maximum motorsports is just about the best there is. alot of guys on here are running H&R supersports and blistins. so if you get those about 200 for springs 500 for shocks/struts, 200 for MM C/C plates. thats about your budget not including an alignment. about $1000 not including instalation if your gonna have someone else do it for you.

Aprox. how much would it cost for an install on the MM Starter Box? Sport Box? Thanks!

-J

wannabe2000GT · Jan 21, 2006

prices vary everywhree. i would call local speedshops around your area and get some price quotes. iv also heard that its not that difficult of a thing to do and you its very possible to do with just you and a friend. there are some good writeups on doing it and i think im gonna try and tackle it in the spring.

QU!CK · Jan 22, 2006

wannabe2000GT said:
prices vary everywhree. i would call local speedshops around your area and get some price quotes. iv also heard that its not that difficult of a thing to do and you its very possible to do with just you and a friend. there are some good writeups on doing it and i think im gonna try and tackle it in the spring.

Cool, any websites with the writeups that you reccommend?

-J

tomustang · Jan 22, 2006

QU!CK said:
Thanks, any other options/opinions?

-J

IRS. you don't want to fawk around on the street with a stiffer live axle

QU!CK · Jan 22, 2006

tomustang said:
IRS. you don't want to fawk around on the street with a stiffer live axle

Well, I don't want to go overboard. I like the solid axle for drag racing and don't want to have to drop the $$$ on an IRS swap + beefing it up.

-J

kuwait · Jan 22, 2006

hmmm , what kind of cars are competing with?

QU!CK · Jan 22, 2006

kuwait said:
hmmm , what kind of cars are competing with?

RSX-S w/ coil-overs
350Z w/ coil-overs

Not really sure what else will be there yet...and for the record, we're not really competing, this road can be pretty dangerous if anyone trys to start hotdogging. I just want to be able to keep up without getting in the way

-J

kuwait · Jan 22, 2006

i think you will out handle the RSX-S , but the 350Z will do circles around you , just my opinion.
and its always a competion , even if you deny it,i know you want to be the winner
gets some susp mods , would like to hear about what will you do in the twisties , mine would go into a big pile of smoke and the auto tranny is just **** when in it comes to coming out of a corner
anyway try to have fun , and be safe.

cvgtpony03 · Jan 22, 2006

That's too funny

I just made a comment about the "Dragon" in another thread and then came here and saw you speaking of it. IT is a blast isn't it? Hell, the posted speed limit of 30 MPH (I think) is tough to handle in some spots. The down side tp it is getting stuck behind grandpas in their Goldwing motorcycles going 15 MRH thru there. Anyway that is in my backyard and I love it. Great testing/proving ground for tour modifications.

On the suspension question....I am sure I will be told I am wrong but I will offer my advice to you.

I redid everything to my suspension. The BIGGEST IMPROVEMENT I noticed was after adding the new swaybars. I went with the STEEDA Front (which is a monster compared to the twig it replaced) and the STEEDA Aluminum Swaybar brackets (These are a little pricey and not that necessary but I went ahead and did them with the swaybar) and the STEEDA Adjustable rear sway bar (that goes on WITH your stock one-does not just replace it)

I put UPR coilovers on the front with Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable struts and STEEDA Sport springs in the rear with Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustible springs in the rear. I also changed the upper and lower control arms in the rear to STEEDA aluminum height adjustable lowers and double adjustible upppers.

Also UPR bumpsteer kit and caster/camber plates.

I know that is a lot but it can be done in stages. I also wanted to be able to adjust everything-fride height and firmness-from drag racing to road courses to cruising. This allows me to do that.

I have a bunch of other crap but that is the main suspension stuff.

I did everything but the sway bars one weekend and noticed a good difference....but after adding the swaybars the difference was phenominal.

I believe the Bullit has stiffer/more aggressive suspension stuff from the factory and you said that is what you have but anyhow if I had just wanted a little better handling and look....I now know I would have just went with sportier springs and the SWAY BARS, maybe some stronger, non adjustable lower control arms. It would be nice to do better shocks/struts while doing the springs too but that depends on your funds.

Heck just try the Swaybars first. I know people will say I am full of it but I drove my car for a year stock. When I added those swaybars-it was like a new car. Body roll became almost non existent and grip improved greatly. I have a clover leaf close to my place that is my little proving ground if I don't want the full Dragon experience (Pellissippi Interstate and Alcoa Hiway interchange, if you know the area) Those swaybars are what made me realize the stock Mustang GT seats suck for lateral support

The two swaybars would run around $250 if I remember right (without the aluminum brackets). The back one is a bit of a bitch to get on....I could have used a few more hands to do it. If you live remotely close though I'd love to help you put them on though. IT was pretty fun to do now that I look back. Good feeling to accomplish something like that considering my most complicated auto install prior to it was brake pads or an oil change Springs would be $200-$250 I believe and shock/struts around $500. These prices are what I recall paying for my specific brands about6-9 months ago.

Oh yeah 17X9 & 17X10.5 rims with 275/40 & 315/35 rubber are a hell of a lot of grip to add to your car too. MASSIVE GRIP. And looks mean-oh so mean too. That'll cost you $1500-$2000 though

Hope this helps a little.....Ken

tomustang · Jan 22, 2006

cvgtpony03 said:
I just made a comment about the "Dragon" in another thread and then came here and saw you speaking of it. IT is a blast isn't it? Hell, the posted speed limit of 30 MPH (I think) is tough to handle in some spots. The down side tp it is getting stuck behind grandpas in their Goldwing motorcycles going 15 MRH thru there. Anyway that is in my backyard and I love it. Great testing/proving ground for tour modifications.

On the suspension question....I am sure I will be told I am wrong but I will offer my advice to you.

I redid everything to my suspension. The BIGGEST IMPROVEMENT I noticed was after adding the new swaybars. I went with the STEEDA Front (which is a monster compared to the twig it replaced) and the STEEDA Aluminum Swaybar brackets (These are a little pricey and not that necessary but I went ahead and did them with the swaybar) and the STEEDA Adjustable rear sway bar (that goes on WITH your stock one-does not just replace it)

I put UPR coilovers on the front with Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable struts and STEEDA Sport springs in the rear with Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustible springs in the rear. I also changed the upper and lower control arms in the rear to STEEDA aluminum height adjustable lowers and double adjustible upppers.

Also UPR bumpsteer kit and caster/camber plates.

I know that is a lot but it can be done in stages. I also wanted to be able to adjust everything-fride height and firmness-from drag racing to road courses to cruising. This allows me to do that.

I have a bunch of other crap but that is the main suspension stuff.

I did everything but the sway bars one weekend and noticed a good difference....but after adding the swaybars the difference was phenominal.

I believe the Bullit has stiffer/more aggressive suspension stuff from the factory and you said that is what you have but anyhow if I had just wanted a little better handling and look....I now know I would have just went with sportier springs and the SWAY BARS, maybe some stronger, non adjustable lower control arms. It would be nice to do better shocks/struts while doing the springs too but that depends on your funds.

Heck just try the Swaybars first. I know people will say I am full of it but I drove my car for a year stock. When I added those swaybars-it was like a new car. Body roll became almost non existent and grip improved greatly. I have a clover leaf close to my place that is my little proving ground if I don't want the full Dragon experience (Pellissippi Interstate and Alcoa Hiway interchange, if you know the area) Those swaybars are what made me realize the stock Mustang GT seats suck for lateral support

The two swaybars would run around $250 if I remember right (without the aluminum brackets). The back one is a bit of a bitch to get on....I could have used a few more hands to do it. If you live remotely close though I'd love to help you put them on though. IT was pretty fun to do now that I look back. Good feeling to accomplish something like that considering my most complicated auto install prior to it was brake pads or an oil change Springs would be $200-$250 I believe and shock/struts around $500. These prices are what I recall paying for my specific brands about6-9 months ago.

Oh yeah 17X9 & 17X10.5 rims with 275/40 & 315/35 rubber are a hell of a lot of grip to add to your car too. MASSIVE GRIP. And looks mean-oh so mean too. That'll cost you $1500-$2000 though

Hope this helps a little.....Ken

great massive understeer setup especially the swaybars and huge rubber in the back

lgndracer · Jan 22, 2006

Do some research at Maximum or at www.griggsracing.com. Also a great forum if you are serious is www.corner-carvers.com.

As for the rear, (the problem area of the Mustang) if you want to really want it to work, and do not want to go IRS, I would look at new lower control arms, a panhard bar, and torque arm. This will let you eliminate the upper control arms that bind. There is a lot of arguments that this actually works better than the Ford IRS. Both Maximum and Griggs have them availible.

Anyone have that link to the site that has the moving images of the suspention while is goes into detail of all the differnt option for a Mustang? I thought I had it in my favorites, but I don't. I think it will help him, and all interested in getting thier car to handle.

tomustang · Jan 22, 2006

lgndracer said:
Do some research at Maximum or at www.griggsracing.com. Also a great forum if you are serious is www.corner-carvers.com.

As for the rear, (the problem area of the Mustang) if you want to really want it to work, and do not want to go IRS, I would look at new lower control arms, a panhard bar, and torque arm. This will let you eliminate the upper control arms that bind. There is a lot of arguments that this actually works better than the Ford IRS. Both Maximum and Griggs have them availible.

IRS comes down to using stiffer spring rates in the back over a live axle, due to havin free movement of each wheel in the rear

lgndracer said:
Anyone have that link to the site that has the moving images of the suspention while is goes into detail of all the differnt option for a Mustang? I thought I had it in my favorites, but I don't. I think it will help him, and all interested in getting thier car to handle.

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/

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