gt40s what cam?
- Thread starter jghood13
- Start date
If you are on a budget, the stock cam would work great with the 1.7's. If you are building a cam around 1.7 rockers, it is tough to choose a cam because most are designed using a 1.6 rocker. Honestly, unless you are willing to change the springs, there isn't a cam that you can run with 1.7 rockers that won't present a problem with the stock springs. If you would change the springs, the only 2 cams that I can think of off the top of my head would be the B-cam and the 15511 from Crower. Some diss the alphabet cams, but the B-cam is the exception. It's low lift and long(er) duration make it a great, torquey cam. But yes, there are better out there. Better as far as value and price is concerned? I would argue against that.jghood13 said:
Joe
I was in the same debate with my soon to be new combo at the bottom of my sig but i have decided to go with a FTI custom cam from ed curtis. I would recomend the same. www.flowtechinduction.com my .02
I believe it was 97 and up, when the P heads came on the Explorer/Mountaineer motors. I would double check that though. As far as the heads, it really depends on what cam you want to run. Out of the box, they don't flow much past .450 lift, so a Crower cam would be more than enough, and the stock springs would suffice. If you want to run something bigger, I would order the bare castings and assemble them yourself. The P heads have a 62.5cc combustion chamber, and if the stock heads are 9:1, the P's are going to be somewhere between 8.7 and 8.8:1 depending on headgasket thickness.jghood13 said:
Joe
I am getting the 98 dexplorer motor monday or tuesday.
How much should I mill the heads?
What valves, valve springs, cam and rockers should I now run for the most power?
Is it worth if to upgrade all of this or should I use componets out of the mustang or explorer and just upgrade the cam?
BY THE WAY THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
How much should I mill the heads?
What valves, valve springs, cam and rockers should I now run for the most power?
Is it worth if to upgrade all of this or should I use componets out of the mustang or explorer and just upgrade the cam?
BY THE WAY THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
You can only mill about 40-thousandths off the heads before you have to start milling the manifold. I would mill 35-thousandths off just to stay on the safe side.jghood13 said:
I would keep the stock valve train for several reasons. You don't need a large cam with stock P heads. They have max flow in the .450 to .475 lift ranges which is still within the capabilities of the stock springs. If you put aftermarket springs on the car, make sure they have the right pressures at the seat and at max. lift or else you could flat spot the cam. I would keep the stock valvetrain, and put the Crower in there.
Joe
blksn955.o
Founding Member
Joes95GT said:
This is what almost the same stuff I found out when researching gt40 heads, only I found that the heads liked around .475-.500 (the .500 as an absolute max) that and a split pattern cam, diff. numbers on int. and exh sides of cam and look for something that fav. the exh. side. I think it was like a 4-6* diff. in favor of exh. dur. and a .008-.012 in lift on the exh. not 100% sure though.
Thats right. The P's really lack on the exhaust side. If the exhaust side gets opened up properly, and the right cam is used, it will perform right with an AFR headed car.blksn955.o said:
JG - do not get stud mount rockers, the GT40P heads are pedestal mount heads and will accept only pedestal mount rockers.
Joe
Thumper (Mike) does excellent work and will work the P head quite nicely. I think he charges something like $600 for the work, plus shipping. If he ported them, you could run a bigger cam than .500 lift because the heads would be able to breathe past the point where they choked off before. However, like I said before, if you go past .500 lift, you are better off buying the bare castings and putting all the valvetrain together yourself. It's all money....jghood13 said:
Joe
