Do this!! This is EXACTLY what I want for the Daddywagon!! When you build a sleeper you want an engine that runs smooooth! I am chasing this very engine.All of this banter has given me an idea.
I've been wanting to do an N/A Windsor build for some time now. I'd be willing to bet that I could build such a motor and have it run as smooth as a baby's ass and still make over 400 FWHP.
I'm thinking:
Cast crank
forged rods
hyper pistons
EFI after-market ECU
shorties
Full weight forged flywheel
zero balanced
What else?
I'm thinking this might be right at home in the 89.
Torque across the entire usable RPM range is what you're shooting for. Long runners, high-lift cam with a good overlap with good manners on the low end.If you were to build an engine strictly for the street wouldn’t torque take priority? Power down low, right? What is the best daily driver build?
All of this banter has given me an idea.
I've been wanting to do an N/A Windsor build for some time now. I'd be willing to bet that I could build such a motor and have it run as smooth as a baby's ass and still make over 400 FWHP.
I'm thinking:
Cast crank
forged rods
hyper pistons
EFI after-market ECU
shorties
Full weight forged flywheel
zero balanced
What else?
I'm thinking this might be right at home in the 89.
Pretty sure you could. About 9.5:1 compression and some big heads, and I think it could be done. Probably with the stock ECU as well. But why the forged flywheel and rods with everything else cast?
Kurt
I saw a turbine engine from a Chinook helicopter at the last surplus auction. I'm sure I could make that fit. Might need a new hood though
I saw a turbine engine from a Chinook helicopter at the last surplus auction. I'm sure I could make that fit. Might need a new hood though
The Flywheel probably doesn't need to be forged for the RPM I'll be producing but they are relatively inexpensive and the material is more resilient to abuse, changing shape, becoming out of balance over time from wear.
Copy that. My billet flywheel was drilled for 50oz imbalance, then had the drill holes filled and welded for neutral balance, and inbetween resurfaced at least 3 times. I paid $200 for it, but I think they are around $250 now, still a good investment. I never thought I would get 18 years out of it.
What are the stock rods good for? I agree on the stock crank shaft. The cast aftermarket Chinese ones aren't worth it. They are stronger than the stock one, but tend to have other problems.
Kurt
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