Guage Cluster

rotorhead22

Active Member

Dec 17, 2020

175

89

38

Wesley Chapel, Florida

Jun 21, 2021

#1

• Jun 21, 2021

• #1

And the fun just keeps on coming. I discovered that my alternator upgrade wasnt work and following the troubleshooting chart that is posted on Stangnet, I removed the guage cluster to find a complete mess of burnt copper ribbon and what not. So I guess the car is telling me to install the new cluster from New Vintage gauges. Better than fuel problems.

 

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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,321

18,048

224

Massachusetts

Jun 21, 2021

#2

• Jun 21, 2021

• #2

Definitely a wiring mess back there.

You can repair the ribbon cable by soldering a jumper. If it's busted in a few spots, buy a used 4 cyl cluster from the same year span. You can use the ribbon cable off that. Other than the tach and speedometer it's the same stuff. Nice to have some spare components as well.

Of course, the other wires needs to be fixes as well such as that loose white wire. Who knows what the red wire tapped into the voltage pin on the reverse was being used for

 

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mikestang63

SN Certified Technician

Aug 27, 2012

11,606

8,859

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In the garage

Jun 21, 2021

#3

• Jun 21, 2021

• #3

you can find tons of clusters for sale for $100 to $140

 

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rotorhead22

Active Member

Dec 17, 2020

175

89

38

Wesley Chapel, Florida

Jun 22, 2021

#4

• Jun 22, 2021

• #4

The guy I bought the car from had this he just never installed it. I was procrastinating on tackling this however it’s unavoidable now

 

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Reactions: Ryuk and General karthief

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,321

18,048

224

Massachusetts

Jun 22, 2021

#5

• Jun 22, 2021

• #5

That will get it done for sure. Nice setup

 

rotorhead22

Active Member

Dec 17, 2020

175

89

38

Wesley Chapel, Florida

Jun 22, 2021

#6

• Jun 22, 2021

• #6

So after studying the wire schematic for the stock cluster panel I am left scratching my head as to why the red/light green coil wire is connected to the cluster panel? I know that I need to jump the green/red wire for the alternator but why the coil connection

 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician

Aug 27, 2012

11,606

8,859

214

In the garage

Jun 22, 2021

#7

• Jun 22, 2021

• #7

rotorhead22 said:

So after studying the wire schematic for the stock cluster panel I am left scratching my head as to why the red/light green coil wire is connected to the cluster panel? I know that I need to jump the green/red wire for the alternator but why the coil connection

Click to expand...

the pinouts are different form 87 to 89 and 90 to 93 . When I did mine on my 90 i think i jumped 2 to 14 on the passenger side.. 87 to 89 jump 5 to 6 on the driver side connector. #5 is the coil/batt pin. If memory serves me right its a 50ohm? resistor inline to simulate the check engine light resistance.

 

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rotorhead22

Active Member

Dec 17, 2020

175

89

38

Wesley Chapel, Florida

Jun 23, 2021

#8

• Jun 23, 2021

• #8

After reviewing the diagrams and gauges again, I failed to realize that the red/light green wire goes to the "I (ignition)" post on each gauge for switched power. Sometimes you just have to step away from it and come back later.

 

G

George7

Member

Feb 14, 2015

24

7

13

Durham, NC

Jun 27, 2021

#9

• Jun 27, 2021

• #9

You should keep the slosh module from your old gauge cluster. I believe there are rebuilders and buyers on Ebay for them. Unless the new gauge needs the Ford OEM module. They are easy to remove.

 

rotorhead22

Active Member

Dec 17, 2020

175

89

38

Wesley Chapel, Florida

Jun 27, 2021

#10

• Jun 27, 2021

• #10

George7 said:

You should keep the slosh module from your old gauge cluster. I believe there are rebuilders and buyers on Ebay for them. Unless the new gauge needs the Ford OEM module. They are easy to remove.

Click to expand...

I saw that on the schematic and will remove it because there is no connection for it on the aftermarket setup

 

rotorhead22

Active Member

Dec 17, 2020

175

89

38

Wesley Chapel, Florida

Jul 31, 2021

#11

• Jul 31, 2021

• #11

So after connecting the light green/red and the red/green wires I discovered that my 3g alternator wasn't charging and after a few days of multimeter work I found out that the new voltage regulator was fried. The money pit got deeper

 

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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

20+ Year Stangneter

Jun 14, 2004

9,303

1,648

214

Acworth, GA

Aug 1, 2021

#12

• Aug 1, 2021

• #12

rotorhead22 said:

So after connecting the light green/red and the red/green wires I discovered that my 3g alternator wasn't charging and after a few days of multimeter work I found out that the new voltage regulator was fried. The money pit got deeper

Click to expand...

You have to put a resistor between the two wires; can't just be connected. If you look at the printed circuit on your factory instrument cluster there should be a resistor on the alternator circuit. That's to bypass the light bulb if it blows so that your alternator continues to charge. Just rip that resistor out of the printed circuit and use it. If you didn't have a resistor there, it's possible that's what caused your voltage regulator to fail.

Kurt

 

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rotorhead22

Active Member

Dec 17, 2020

175

89

38

Wesley Chapel, Florida

Aug 1, 2021

#13

• Aug 1, 2021

• #13

I know which one you are referencing so I will read the bands and get a new one

 

Reactions: revhead347