Guide coat for block sanding question

JC6715

Member

Oct 24, 2005

284

0

16

Hillsboro, Oregon

Aug 26, 2008

#1

• Aug 26, 2008

• #1

I am using a high-quality epoxy primer, but a rattle can of Rustoleum auto primer for my guide coat.

Do you all think there will be any adhesion or compatibility problems in the low spots where the Rustoleum doesn't get sanded off?

Should I lightly sand off the Rustoleum in the low spots before using filler or more primer?

Thanks guys

 

R

ron67fb

Founding Member

Aug 3, 2001

1,117

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36

SF Bay area, CA

Aug 26, 2008

#2

• Aug 26, 2008

• #2

No experience using Rusto as a guide coat, but I have had it lift over cracks in repair areas. I sprayed the Rustoleum on just to keep the bare metal around the repair from rusting and the cracks, which were previously filled, primed, and blocked, had lifted the paint almost immediately. Maybe it was my prep, but if it was then why did the primer stick and show no flaws during blocking?

I would suggest the 3M dry powder guide coat. Expensive at about $40 a container but it's well worth it. No drying time, no spray bomb blowing in your face because of wind, and I've used it for both wet and dry sanding. You prime and wait for the time-to-sand window, wipe this stuff on, and sand right away. It also spreads easily while you sand so a little goes a long way.
Eastwood Co. - 3M Dry Guide Coat With Applicator

 

C

chromedog

New Member

Jan 13, 2006

554

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0

worlds center for speed

Aug 28, 2008

#3

• Aug 28, 2008

• #3

dont use rustoleum for the guide coat... it dries so slowly, you will need to let it sit for days before you can sand it. not that you are putting on enough to build a film, but you will clog more sandpaper than your wallet will allow. go with any cheap, rattle can enamel, or trim black.... look for the works fast drying on the can...

 

JC6715

Member

Oct 24, 2005

284

0

16

Hillsboro, Oregon

Aug 28, 2008

#4

• Aug 28, 2008

• #4

Thanks guys. No more Rustoleum...

 

mustangmike6996

5 Year Member

Nov 10, 2005

483

6

29

clinton twp, MI

Aug 28, 2008

#5

• Aug 28, 2008

• #5

rusto. is horrible... it is made with fish oil... (at least the paint is) and if you use an actual base/clear paint it will not stick to rusto... unless the rusto is sanded to bare metal again...

 

zookeeper

Founding Member

Aug 25, 2001

3,415

63

109

Rogue River, Oregon

Aug 28, 2008

#6

• Aug 28, 2008

• #6

I used plain old lacquer primer, it dries nearly instantly, sands easily and is cheap. But next time I plan to use one of the dry-guide powders, they look like a good way to go, and you don't need to mask anything off before you use them.

 

NasaGT

Founding Member

Sep 19, 2002

1,993

2

49

Virginia

Aug 29, 2008

#7

• Aug 29, 2008

• #7

I've heard that those dry guide powders work really well. I'm definately going to use one of those the next time I'm doing body work.

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Aug 29, 2008

#8

• Aug 29, 2008

• #8

I just use left over paint from another job reduced alot. Gets rid of paint laying around.