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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

guys who have changed their brake pads...

  • Thread starter Thread starter 2000 4.6
  • Start date Start date Jun 15, 2005

2000 4.6

Founding Member
Feb 5, 2001
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Northern VA
Jun 15, 2005
#1
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #1
Alright, I bought a set of hawk pads and I started to install them today on my pass. side rear. I can't get the piston to compress in order to get the caliper over the new pads. Is there a trick? Is there a special tool that will compress the piston? If so, where do you get it?
 
N

ns80

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
4
0
1
Jun 15, 2005
#2
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #2
2000 4.6 said:
Alright, I bought a set of hawk pads and I started to install them today on my pass. side rear. I can't get the piston to compress in order to get the caliper over the new pads. Is there a trick? Is there a special tool that will compress the piston? If so, where do you get it?
Click to expand...

I don't have an exact answer for you but I remember reading here recently that the piston is supposed to rotate as it compresses, so you aren't supposed to throw a regular c-clamp on there or you'll break something. Hopefully someone else has the proper method for actually compressing it.
 
S

sixstang

New Member
Jun 10, 2002
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Jun 15, 2005
#3
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #3
The rear calipers have a special tool. You can use needle nose pliers, but with either you have to press in while you screw it in.
 
N

ns80

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
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Jun 15, 2005
#4
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #4
Yep I just got out my Haynes manual and it says to rotate the piston clockwise with a brake piston tool or needle-nose pliers, and you should screw it in all the way and have the 2 notches in the piston lined up vertically.
 

313Stang

New Member
Jan 13, 2004
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Detroit
Jun 15, 2005
#5
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #5
The first couple of turns are a bitch..but after that it's easy.. The first time I did it I tried the c clamp because I didn't know.. I turned so hard that the damn c clamp broke in two
 

2000 4.6

Founding Member
Feb 5, 2001
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Northern VA
Jun 15, 2005
#6
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #6
Why can't anything be simple?? Thanks for the help guys?
 

hersheyman

New Member
Jul 15, 2004
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Oklahoma
Jun 15, 2005
#7
  • Jun 15, 2005
  • #7
I personally would not use needle nose pliers. You could slip and poke a hole in the rubber seal around the caliper. I got an universal tool from Autozone for like $6-8. You have to apply preasure while you are turning the piston clock wise. I found out that even tho you think you may have the piston "fully seated", if the caliper won't slip on the pads/rotor w/o a struggle, you still don't have the piston in far enough. I gave up a couple months ago after nearly two hours, but am going to give it another shot this Saturday.
sixstang said:
The rear calipers have a special tool. You can use needle nose pliers, but with either you have to press in while you screw it in.
Click to expand...
 

2000 4.6

Founding Member
Feb 5, 2001
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Northern VA
Jun 16, 2005
#8
  • Jun 16, 2005
  • #8
Well, the right tool makes all the difference in the world. Went to autozone and bought a brake piston tool. It is actually a rental tool...you pay $35 and you can either keep it or return it. I rented a pulley puller from them before too.

Once I had the piston fully backed out, the caliper went right over the new hawk pads!
 

VOORHEES

Stangnet's "35th Limited Edition" VIN Guy
15 Year Member
Nov 9, 1999
3,046
36
119
LaGrange, GA
Jun 16, 2005
#9
  • Jun 16, 2005
  • #9
Easy way...

1)Remove the lid from your brake fluid resevoir.

2)Put a thin piece of wood on the calipers and squeze slowly with a set of channel lock pliers.

3) If you lose any fluid, top it off after you finish.

I've been doing mine this way for years. On all kinds of cars too.
 
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
952
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16
Clayton NC
Jun 16, 2005
#10
  • Jun 16, 2005
  • #10
that works on the front... but the rears do need to screw down. but yes, remove the cap from the brake fluid res to relieve pressure.

Torinalth
 
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