H/C/I or s/c???

alright, hope this isnt a repetative question, but here it goes...

Im getting a fox body 5.0, and i have two options:
1)i have a friend who has some trick flow twisted wedge aluminum heads, 1.6 rr's, and some pushrods he's selling for $800, so i could buy those, add the trick flow stage 1 cam, timing chain, trick flow intake, ARP head bolts, 24lb injectors, 255lph fuel pump, 75mm throttle body, MAF sensor and calibrate it for the injectors and then get a chip and tune...

OR

2)leave the engine stock... POSSIBLY get a rebuild... and throw on a vortech v-1 sc, run stock pulley and have like 6lb boost, get a 255lph fuel pump, 36lb injectors, bigger throttle body?, MAF sensor calibrated to the injectors?, chip and tune...

im partial to the blower, less work and having a s/c sounds cool...

any ideas?
 
If it were me I would go sc simply because you get a huge performance increase from just one modification. Then later on down the line if you decide to further modify the engine you get much bigger power gains. That's just me though.
 
I'd say do the N/A approach for now since it will be a solid foundation for a future Supercharger. Do you really want to add that kind of air into your tired heads and such. Besides how many miles are on your head gaskets, and running stock cam and heads with stock valve springs wont allow you to fully see the potential of the S/C since your engine will want to die out at 4500 RPMs. Granted you will see power with a S/C, I feel it will be the same as bolting on a cam and heads. Plus you dont want to use a blower with those iron heads and inefficient combustion chambers when aluminum would allow you to run more timing for more power. A fresh set of aluminum heads with aftermarket head gaskets and ARP fasteners will be much better for S/Cing. Either way youll make power but the N/A stuff will be cheaper and give you the opp. to freshen up everything in the engine and prepare for a S/C later which will really flow with performance parts. Besides its best to capitalize on a good deal now because your friend wont have that stuff later after you install your S/C and want heads.
 
If you have enough for a s/c I would do that because it takes alot of scratch. Then when the money comes along get the h/c/i. As far as pushing air through ****ty heads/intake, it does not cost much to port them through tmoss. That would be good for the time being.
 
h/c/i, it's always better to go NA before you 'charge it, that way you've got enough motor for the supercharger. Sure, with the SC you'll get lots of instant power, but if you had the h/c/i in place before you 'charge it, you'd see so much more. If nothing else, i'd spend the money on flow porting rather than the 'charger, and go natural.
 
Fox 5.0 said:
75mm throttle body


:eek: You dont want to Put a 75MM TB on a N/A Application. Highest you want to go is 65MM. If you go w/ a Supercharger then go up to a 70MM. You would have to have one hell of a sick combo to even think about a 75MM TB.
 
Striped5.0 said:
:eek: You dont want to Put a 75MM TB on a N/A Application. Highest you want to go is 65MM. If you go w/ a Supercharger then go up to a 70MM. You would have to have one hell of a sick combo to even think about a 75MM TB.

Yeah I would go 65mm....

Well I'm kinda in the same boat as Fox 5.0 about whether to choose a supercharger or go the N/A route...I'm worried about the timing and a/f ratio and messing with that going the supercharger route...but I know I want to get a rebuild or a DSSracing shortblock for sure...N/A or supercharger..that is the question :shrug:

David
 
5spd GT said:
I'm worried about the timing and a/f ratio and messing with that going the supercharger route...David


1. Adjustible Fuel Pressure Gueage

2. Boot Timming Controler.

Just do a safe tune well within specs of the "danger zone" and you will be fine. Supercharges dont cause problems, its the dummys who try to tune them and dont know what there doing and screw it all up.
 
Hey thanks guys for all the input... you all seem 50-50 though on what you prefer.. the thing with my friend, he has those trick flow heads, the rockers and the pushrods for $800 bucks... thats a good deal.. it just seems like theres more of "the little stuff" that you dont think about going with H/C/I rather than the s/c... geez what a dilemma! i have the money for a s/c no prob, i think i have the money for the h/c/i too... but i would like some left over money incase anything breaks so i can fix it... what do you think the difference between the two would be in cost... counting in the $800 for my friends stuff???
 
I think im gonna go the s/c route... seems a little cheaper, and like you guys say i can always do the h/c/i later... i dont need like 350+ hp, i just want a low to mid 13 sec car and i think a s/c, full exhaust, and gears will do that for me... but thanks all you guys for your input!! much appreciated!
 
Fox 5.0 said:
I think im gonna go the s/c route... seems a little cheaper, and like you guys say i can always do the h/c/i later... i dont need like 350+ hp, i just want a low to mid 13 sec car and i think a s/c, full exhaust, and gears will do that for me... but thanks all you guys for your input!! much appreciated!


lol...hang on man...it's a long road ahead....nobody ever needs 350+ hp, you've just gotta have more and more and more....
 
first mod I ever did to my mustang was a blower, and then I slowly did everything else, and it was fun because mods that normall add a few horses to an na car added like 20 to mine at a time, real fun.


mike: Depending on what crowd you run with, N/A can only go so far on a street car, forced induction lets you go further.
 
Striped5.0 said:
:eek: You dont want to Put a 75MM TB on a N/A Application. Highest you want to go is 65MM. If you go w/ a Supercharger then go up to a 70MM. You would have to have one hell of a sick combo to even think about a 75MM TB.

That's funny, Ed Curtis recommended a 75mm throttle body for the N/A setup I was planning with him (302, AFR's, Edelbrock Performer, 80mm MAF, 24lb injectors, custom cam). He said 75mm will be best, but 70mm is also good. He wouldn't go any lower. You can argue with him about it, but I think he knows what's best for a N/A combo. 75mm would be fine, and then top it off with an 80mm Pro-M!