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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-

H&R Super Sport springs

  • Thread starter Thread starter silver2v
  • Start date Start date Jun 16, 2010

silver2v

New Member
Mar 4, 2010
26
0
0
Jun 16, 2010
#1
  • Jun 16, 2010
  • #1
around how much would it cost to have a set of H&R super sports installed on my 2002 GT?
 

Kornnut

Founding Member
Nov 25, 2000
1,999
48
108
Tulsa
Jun 16, 2010
#2
  • Jun 16, 2010
  • #2
13 million




Its an easy DIY project with hand tools.
 

streethorse

15 Year Member
Oct 8, 2005
1,042
6
58
Dallas Texas
Jun 16, 2010
#3
  • Jun 16, 2010
  • #3
Im thinking about a case of Miller Lite and 4 hours of labor.
 

slayerripkdc

15 Year Member
Jun 3, 2003
1,341
16
59
brewster ny
Jun 17, 2010
#4
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #4
In NY they usually charge around 375 for spring installs.
 

Kornnut

Founding Member
Nov 25, 2000
1,999
48
108
Tulsa
Jun 17, 2010
#5
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #5
slayerripkdc said:
In NY they usually charge around 375 for spring installs.
Click to expand...

Highway robbery right there.
 

EvilTurkey

New Member
Sep 13, 2009
110
0
0
Philadelphia, PA
Jun 17, 2010
#6
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #6
slayerripkdc said:
In NY they usually charge around 375 for spring installs.
Click to expand...

Im in PA around the Philly area, and Ive been quoted over 300 by 3 shops, and told 'no, thats illegal and we wont do it' by a 4th shop. Id love to do it myself but I heard it was pretty hard to do.
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
238
184
MN
Jun 17, 2010
#7
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #7
EvilTurkey said:
Im in PA around the Philly area, and Ive been quoted over 300 by 3 shops, and told 'no, thats illegal and we wont do it' by a 4th shop. Id love to do it myself but I heard it was pretty hard to do.
Click to expand...

It's incredibly easy. Click here for an easy how-to. It isn't really outlined in the how-to, but you can rent a spring compressor from an auto-parts store to aide in removal of the stockers. Many auto parts stores rent tools free of charge too which is nice. Take the $350 you'll save doing it yourself and buy yourself something else like a handheld tuner, nice mid-pipe, etc....
 

EvilTurkey

New Member
Sep 13, 2009
110
0
0
Philadelphia, PA
Jun 17, 2010
#8
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #8
Thanks a million Nate, you may have just saved me a few hundred dollars.
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
238
184
MN
Jun 17, 2010
#9
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #9
EvilTurkey said:
Thanks a million Nate, you may have just saved me a few hundred dollars.
Click to expand...

You got it dude, glad to help
 

crazystang25

Member
Jan 25, 2009
492
0
16
Jun 17, 2010
#10
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #10
and the model spring compressor you should use is your floor jack, alot easy and cheaper than a spring compressor.
 

stprorolla49

Active Member
Oct 9, 2004
1,455
15
39
Fairfield, CT/North Jersey
Jun 17, 2010
#11
  • Jun 17, 2010
  • #11
crazystang25 said:
and the model spring compressor you should use is your floor jack, alot easy and cheaper than a spring compressor.
Click to expand...

While I do agree that it is an easier way to do it, it is MUCH more dangerous. I am all about doing things the easiest way possible, but a compressed spring shooting out in your face is not something I ever wanna deal with. If you are going to only use a floor jack, either tie a rope around the spring and somewhere on the frame rail or sway bar, or use a bungee cord. That way if the spring goes flying, it's not gonna go far.

I myself have done probably 6 or 7 spring installs on Mustangs and it gets easier and faster every time. I did the install on my Bullitt in less than 2 hours. I think it takes me longer to jack the car up and be safe about jack stands and whatnot than it does to actually change the springs. I used both a small floor jack under the a-arm as well as a spring compressor for most of the cars I've done. If you aren't in a rush, do it right. The last thing you wanna do is get hurt.

Good luck man. Save yourself the money and instead of getting someone to install them get a nice external spring compressor, an air ratchet, a few deep impact sockets, and a case of beer. I charge by way of 12 packs of Yuengling
 

XxMustang281xX

Member
Jun 9, 2004
194
0
17
Everett, PA
Jun 18, 2010
#12
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #12
I got my springs, shocks, struts, and CC plates done last week for $100. At a very trustworthy and quality shop!
 

slothy

New Member
Jun 11, 2010
7
0
1
St clair shores, Mi.
Jun 18, 2010
#13
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #13
i just did my h&r SS spring/d spec install this week, i rented a spring compressor and well it didn't fit, so i ended up just using a jack under LCA and slowly letting it down till spring was not under tension and gave the LCA a swift push down with my foot (after disconnecting sway bar, strut and tie rod end from spindle) and spring fell out. the rear was a pita for me since the LCA bolts was seized in it, took a air hammer to get them out. front took me about 1.5 hours since everything came loose with ease, the rear took a bit longer because of the dicking with the 2 LCA bolts.

Will be doing MM c/c plates this weekend since i failed to remember to order them til i was already installing front struts.

if you have basic wrenching skills, basic tools and some PB plaster - i would do it yourself.
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
238
184
MN
Jun 18, 2010
#14
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #14
slothy said:
i just did my h&r SS spring/d spec install this week, i rented a spring compressor and well it didn't fit, so i ended up just using a jack under LCA and slowly letting it down till spring was not under tension and gave the LCA a swift push down with my foot (after disconnecting sway bar, strut and tie rod end from spindle) and spring fell out. the rear was a pita for me since the LCA bolt was seized in it, took a air hammer to get it out. front took me about 1.5 hours since everything came loose with ease, the rear took a bit longer because of the dicking with the 2 LCA bolts.

Will be doing MM c/c plates this weekend since i failed to remember to order them til i was already installing front struts.

if you have basic wrenching skills, basic tools and some PB plaster - i would do it yourself.
Click to expand...

There is no reason to use a spring compressor on the rear springs anyways since the LCA has a perch to hold the spring in place. You can just slowly lower the jack until all tension is relieved from the spring and remove. The fronts, however, are a different story. The only way to remove them w/o a spring compressor is to either remove the tie rod ends or use a prybar. Skipping on the spring compressor for the fronts is not worth the risk IMO.
 

slothy

New Member
Jun 11, 2010
7
0
1
St clair shores, Mi.
Jun 18, 2010
#15
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #15
N8Dogg98 said:
There is no reason to use a spring compressor on the rear springs anyways since the LCA has a perch to hold the spring in place. You can just slowly lower the jack until all tension is relieved from the spring and remove. The fronts, however, are a different story. The only way to remove them w/o a spring compressor is to either remove the tie rod ends or use a prybar. Skipping on the spring compressor for the fronts is not worth the risk IMO.
Click to expand...

it was the fronts that the spring compressor didn't fit, the rear i just used a jack under LCA again like i did in front.
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
238
184
MN
Jun 18, 2010
#16
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #16
slothy said:
it was the fronts that the spring compressor didn't fit, the rear i just used a jack under LCA again like i did in front.
Click to expand...

Did you have the strut unbolted from the shock tower and lower the a-arm with a jack?
 

slothy

New Member
Jun 11, 2010
7
0
1
St clair shores, Mi.
Jun 18, 2010
#17
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #17
i put a slight tension on a-arm then removed strut, slowly and i mean slowly lowered jack until jack was all the way down, then pushed down on arm with my foot and spring "popped out" and fell to ground.
 

Night Shifter

Well-Known Member
Dec 24, 2005
1,710
27
59
Daytona
Jun 18, 2010
#18
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #18
ive never used a spring compressor for the fronts..mainly cause every auto parts store that rents them out always gives out the wrong one..just lower the control arm down with a jack and stand to to the side if your scared...

ive done plenty of spring installs and never used a compressor and never ever had a springs shoot out or show any kind of force while coming out.. they've all just simply slid out with no problems... i wouldnt recommend you stand in front of the spring and tug on it with your hands but just slowly ease the jack down and you'll have 0 problems
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
238
184
MN
Jun 18, 2010
#19
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #19
Night Shifter said:
ive never used a spring compressor for the fronts..mainly cause every auto parts store that rents them out always gives out the wrong one..just lower the control arm down with a jack and stand to to the side if your scared...

ive done plenty of spring installs and never used a compressor and never ever had a springs shoot out or show any kind of force while coming out.. they've all just simply slid out with no problems... i wouldnt recommend you stand in front of the spring and tug on it with your hands but just slowly ease the jack down and you'll have 0 problems
Click to expand...

I didn't have the same luck, maybe that's because I have an aero SN95

I was able to pry my fronts out with a breaker bar when the a-arm was dropped all the way down, but never been able to get them to slide out like you said. I wish they would have slid out...
 

Night Shifter

Well-Known Member
Dec 24, 2005
1,710
27
59
Daytona
Jun 18, 2010
#20
  • Jun 18, 2010
  • #20
a few of the foxes i had, i had to pry with a prybar a little bit but they still never shot out..they just kinda pushed out..there was effort in getting them out but really, never any shooting out..

the new edges ive done they've all just lazily slid out..only had to use a pry bar once on a new edge and it never shot out like crazy either
 
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