Hard Starting when hot!!

R

Raginstang

New Member

Sep 28, 2003

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SANTA CRUZ CA

Jun 19, 2006

#1

• Jun 19, 2006

• #1

Okay guys, after I am running my car hard for awhile and I shut it off, it will crank over REALLY slow, most times not ever starting until I let it cool for about a half hour. If the car is completly cold though it fires right up. I cant remember this problem until after I moved the battery to the trunk. i used 4guage wires and grounded the gound to the bumper post. if you need pics I will post some. I have alredy taken the starter completly apart and cleaned everything and it did nothing. I also have a starter wrap on it to block header heat. no difference. do I just need a new starter? i have never changed it since ive had the car. or do I need even bigger cables? or just a better ground? or a combo of those things? Please help. very embarrasing when you go to get gas and you have to leave your car running cuz it wont fire back up!!

 

cenok is family

15 Year Member

Jun 25, 2003

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Norman, Ok

Jun 19, 2006

#2

• Jun 19, 2006

• #2

i have the EXACT same problem man, still havent figured it out. check the salt and pepper shakers, as i've been told by many, didnt fix my problem, but worth a shot anyway. it's not being caused by the starter though, i can tell you that much. i have a brand new starter, coil and solonoid and it still does it.

 

R

Raginstang

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Sep 28, 2003

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SANTA CRUZ CA

Jun 19, 2006

#3

• Jun 19, 2006

• #3

hrm.. I am wondering if I just have a crappy ground spot? and when its hot it doesn't get enough juice? I don't know, do you have a battery in the trunk also? and where do have the ground wire grounded at in the trunk?

 

jrichker

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Jun 19, 2006

#4

• Jun 19, 2006

• #4

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

 

87Mustang351

Member

Sep 12, 2005

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Canada, Nova scotia, Cape Breton

Jun 19, 2006

#5

• Jun 19, 2006

• #5

im thinking your timing could be advancted to much i know peoples cars like that and they will berly turn over when they get hot they have to jump start em

 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician

Aug 8, 2003

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NJ

Jun 19, 2006

#6

• Jun 19, 2006

• #6

Happened to me twice, both times it was the starter. (about 8 years apart).

 

R

Raginstang

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Sep 28, 2003

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SANTA CRUZ CA

Jun 20, 2006

#7

• Jun 20, 2006

• #7

okay, how do you guys run your ground all the way up to your engine block? do you go under the car to the chassy, then back into the car and to the engine compartment? or do you just run the cable under the car? just wondering how you get the cables that far?

 

91lxttrim

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Mar 7, 2006

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AZ

Jun 20, 2006

#8

• Jun 20, 2006

• #8

jrichker said:

Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

Click to expand...

So is there supposed to be a ground that goes all the way to the front too? Right now I have the battery grounded right at the chassis near the rear shock mount.

Then I have a 2ga. cable that goes from the engine to the driver's side frame where the battery used to be.

Would connecting the two grounds help with hard-hot starting?

 

jrichker

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#9

• Jun 20, 2006

• #9

91lxttrim said:

So is there supposed to be a ground that goes all the way to the front too? Right now I have the battery grounded right at the chassis near the rear shock mount.

Then I have a 2ga. cable that goes from the engine to the driver's side frame where the battery used to be.

Would connecting the two grounds help with hard-hot starting?

Click to expand...

If your problem is grounds, then just like the tech note says: Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.

You can never have too good a ground or too much money for performance goodies...

 

R

Raginstang

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Sep 28, 2003

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Jun 21, 2006

#10

• Jun 21, 2006

• #10

so is it possible that it is starting hard when hot because of a ground problem? but still starts great cold? or is it likely a starter?

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Nov 29, 1999

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Jun 21, 2006

#11

• Jun 21, 2006

• #11

Marginal wiring will perform alright when cold. Heat and resistance go hand in hand.